Both had apparently snapped while batonning, which means they were being used as pry bars or, more specifically, timber splitting.
. . .
[quoteIf I were in an extreme survival situation, I certainly would not risk a knife by using it to split beams. Stripping bark, chopping kindling and clearing a little brush, yes, but not as a prybar.[/quote]
No, not prying. The technique is (and was in the case I recall being discussed on BF) to rest the sharpened edge on the wood perpendicular to the surface of the wood and to hit the back of the blade with another piece of wood (Not a "sledge hammer," gine.) This is to cause the blade to cut the wood. If the wood is thick enough and the blade relatively thick enough (and the wood being "split" is not American Elm), some splitting may occur, as opposed to cutting. Please see "froe."
And if life depends on getting to dry wood inside a wet exterior, do you preserve your knife from any risk or use it, with proper technique?
I've have batoned wood many times over fiorty years with no adverse results, with knives from an HI khukuri to a flimsy Official BSA slip joint. Fortunately, only twice was it for anything but practice "just in case."
I'm not sure that "high carbon knives should not fail doing this." Much depends on the density of the logs being split, at what point the blade was inserted and what sort of force was being applied to the knife to get the split.
I take your point about variables. The issue of frozen wood and/or baton has been legitimately raised. But how hard would you have to squarely hit the spine of a 5/16" thick piece of tool steel to break it with a piece of wood under "normal conditions"? Not chip it or turn the edge, but to break it into two or more pieces. Laterally, sure. Through the width of the blade? Hard to see how it can happen without other forces being at work.
The froe I own is only 1/4" thick -- unknown carbon steel/unknown age/unknown maker. Probably locally made by a blacksmith in the Russellvilel, Ky area. I just can't see it breaking in two from blows on the spine from a piece of wood. I have used it since 1968.
And, again, I like my CS knives. My Trailmaster has easily survived batoning, even Southern Yellow Pine.