CPKhuk

Terotuf with a smooth finish is still very grippy when it's wet. The shape of the handle really keeps it locked in as well, with no hot spots. For these reasons, and some others, I opted to not have a built in lanyard capability. If this knife gets away from you, you'd want it away from you
I had a small EDC type knife with Terotuf handle material. It rough finished but I want to make it look like yours (if I can). If possible, could you please describe the process you went through to get that amazing finish? I would be particularly interested to know which abrasives grid progression you did and if you used anything to seal/finish the material after the hand sanding.

Thanks!
 
Holy smokes Lorien Lorien . I just caught up on this one. That is the most beautiful khukri I have ever seen. Wow!
thank you very much :)

I think I finished the handle up to 400 grit
In my opinion, coating any composite with anything 'to seal it' is a waste of time and could open doors to a future bad outcome. The exception is something like lightning strike carbon fiber, where the little brass wires will wiggle free and poke your hand. With that my first choice is not to use that material, but otherwise many cycles of sanding, applying epoxy, sanding, repeat
 
Then your handle feels like epoxy. Plastic. Yuck.
I bought a quite a few types of oil, wax, sanding sealer to experiment with with the hope that sealing would achieve;

1- Handles will be more suitable for food processing as the residuals will not get absorbed into micarta
2- Prevent bright micarta colours (especially after hand sanding to 5000 grit) from fading away or changing colour
3- Will have a glossy finish

So far I only tried coating two micarta handles with tung oil. It worked on one better than other, as the consistent finishing is a hit and miss for an inexperienced guy like me. Yes the feel is not the same and feels plastic, but at the same it looks good and improves the grip too.

The first picture is after hand sanding. The second picture is after applying multiple layers of tung oil.


 
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...well....

...I...

....uh....

I made a mistake....


...that I discovered today.



Actually Mark discovered it. And pointed it out to my dumb ass.

I inadvertently ordered the plate with the grain run in the wrong direction. It is still salvageable but I have to reorient the blade 90° from the dimension that I had the plate rolled in order to keep the grain running the length of the blade. This works, but instead of decking a 12-inch length, I'll be decking a 17-inch width instead which is too big for my auto grinder. It's also too big for my old big green Mori which means it would need to be run on my really big white Mori.


The situation is salvageable, but it's going to take me a while to fix this.


Thank goodness this isn't a pre-order.
 
...well....

...I...

....uh....

I made a mistake....


...that I discovered today.



Actually Mark discovered it. And pointed it out to my dumb ass.

I inadvertently ordered the plate with the grain run in the wrong direction. It is still salvageable but I have to reorient the blade 90° from the dimension that I had the plate rolled in order to keep the grain running the length of the blade. This works, but instead of decking a 12-inch length, I'll be decking a 17-inch width instead which is too big for my auto grinder. It's also too big for my old big green Mori which means it would need to be run on my really big white Mori.


The situation is salvageable, but it's going to take me a while to fix this.


Thank goodness this isn't a pre-order.
Genuinely curious question:

How much difference does it make structurally, to have the grain of the steel plate running along the length of the blade vs across?

All I know is that with wood, it's a HUGE difference, but that's because wood splits along the grain.

Would love to hear your technical know-how on how it affects steel.
 
...well....

...I...

....uh....

I made a mistake....


...that I discovered today.



Actually Mark discovered it. And pointed it out to my dumb ass.

I inadvertently ordered the plate with the grain run in the wrong direction. It is still salvageable but I have to reorient the blade 90° from the dimension that I had the plate rolled in order to keep the grain running the length of the blade. This works, but instead of decking a 12-inch length, I'll be decking a 17-inch width instead which is too big for my auto grinder. It's also too big for my old big green Mori which means it would need to be run on my really big white Mori.


The situation is salvageable, but it's going to take me a while to fix this.


Thank goodness this isn't a pre-order.
Wait, is this the pre-order?
 
Genuinely curious question:

How much difference does it make structurally, to have the grain of the steel plate running along the length of the blade vs across?

All I know is that with wood, it's a HUGE difference, but that's because wood splits along the grain.

Would love to hear your technical know-how on how it affects steel.


It depends on the percentage of cross rolling and the alloy in question. I expect the transverse rupture strength differences is about 70%. Not a lot, but enough to matter.
 
It depends on the percentage of cross rolling and the alloy in question. I expect the transverse rupture strength differences is about 70%. Not a lot, but enough to matter.
Thanks.

The only info I had wrt metal, was with forged aluminum wheels (that we used for the track cars). Some info on how the rims of the wheels are forged so the grain structure goes along the rotation, and how the wheels would potentially deform/crack/fail a lot easier (especially under the extreme stresses/conditions in racing) if rims were made with the grain structure going across instead (but no one does), but I never really saw any estimates on the difference.
 
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