Cpm-m4 556 - Update - Broken Spring.

Its from the oils on my thumb. The cpm-m4 etch is fine and the other ones have faint marks but nothing like the benchmade side.



Kevin
 
I see some scratches on that Cerakote, bud. Don't tell me you're actually using that blade??? ;) Seriously, what are you cutting?
 
Carpet can be a nasty piece of work because you can get sand and other hard stuff embedded in it - I was a little surprised by the scratches on the Cerakote. No biggie on a working blade, though.
 
I'm somewhat surprised by the wear I'm seeing on my cerakoted 810. Just a few cuts through cardboard, and it has significant scuff's, just like shown here. I've had numerous BK coated Benchmade knives-- whatever they call(ed) it -- and don't recall that much wear that quickly from just a couple of cuts through cardboard. But I could be wrong. I know cerakote is quite well regarded in the gun industry; I would have thought it would hold up better than I'm seeing.

BTW, I tried the cold-blue on my 810's lasermarked logo and such. Didn't have much effect, whereas a tiny bit applied to the edge blued it almost immediately. So I don't know if there is some kind of coating in the tradmarks, or if the laser etching does something, or what. Definitely not what I expected.
 
Yeah, it was brand new rolls of carpet right out of the plastic though. Pretty clean stuff. The cardboard didn't scratch too bad and wood mainly polished if that makes sense.
 
I recently vowed not to buy any more coated blades from anyone (unless its a 940 ;)) basically because coated blades end up looking horrible.. Yes I know, there will be comments like, "It gives the knife character.." Bla bla bla.. The fact of the matter is, it looks bad. I like being able to polish/buff plain 'ol steel back to new..

That being said, I picked this mini up for the M4, but have regretted it since.. Just way to small in my hand, and the coating is a turn off.. I'll prob sell soon.. Another note: when reading about Cerakote on other forums/web info sources.. Check the dates - the early Cerakote info praises it and is totally biased.. It does scratch, and pretty easily too.. Granted, not as bad as BM's old school BK junk.. My vote is always uncoated.. I like my stonewashed Ritter *way better!

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Well, at least the M4 556 is the grayer cerkote, instead of black. When the gray on my 810 wears, it doesn't show (as much character?) as bad as the black, so I can live with it.
 
I am one of those guys that enjoys the character. Its kind of like someone showing you a pristine truck and trying to pass it off as a work truck. You just know its not true, or its not the same kind of 'work' as I am thinking of. Anyhow, I am very much a "be your own person and like what you like" kind of guy, so whatever folks like doesn't matter at all to me. Today I made about an 8 foot cut through carpeting.



I can see if I want the coating off I should just take it out to the warehouse and use it for a day. The coating would be gone. Anyhow, I bought this knife as a work knife so this result is nothing that bothers me in the least and I actually enjoy seeing it break in. The edge held up well. Its been about a week of putting this knife through its paces without having to go back to the diamond stone, but now it will need that touch up.

I don't mind coatings at all. If you want them gone you can strip them off but they don't hurt anything otherwise IMO.

So far I am loving this knife. A great work knife and the smaller size is perfect when your actually working and you don't want a larger knife jabbing you in the leg.

I will consider this knife to have real character when the coating is much more worn off and the exposed steel gains a patina from use. The benchmade etch is still rusty, but I plan to try cleaning it up later. The comment on not being able to acid etch the logo has me wondering how well that will go, but I will give it a rinse with acetone and see.

Kevin
 
Give pencil eraser a try on the etched logo rust. Worked on my Contego and now I just put a bit of wax over it.
 
Thanks bud!! I actually just sharpened and the lapping fluid and my thumb rubbed out the rust. It's good to go :)
 
I kinda like the way a blade looks when the black finish starts to wear thin after a lot of use, looks like you actually use the knife. Obviously it should be strong enough not to wear off quickly, but nothing worse than a minty edc knife unless its brand new, just means it never leaves the pocket.
 
I have no problem using a knife, either coated or not; If I like the knife enough I'll buy another anyway. But unless it's coated for a purpose, as M2/M4 (or 1095 for that matter...) I go for satin as a rule; and stonewashed is my favorite. One sure way to get around anxiety, something I've been doing lately - is to simply buy used knives. Then I WILL put it in my pocket and just have fun. It's like buying a car that already has dings...;)
 
jkarp_53 said:
One sure way to get around anxiety, something I've been doing lately - is to simply buy used knives. Then I WILL put it in my pocket and just have fun. It's like buying a car that already has dings...;)
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With me, the anxiety ceases once I go back to uncoated :) I pay attention to detail, sometimes a little too much, so as a rule, I’m done with coated blades for that reason. I find myself having more fun with knives that aren’t coated similar to your post ;)
 
Don't get me wrong guys. I have some knives I carried for years that don't look very worn. I have had the same problem of being too much of a perfectionist for detail also, but over the years I finally found a way to just find a knife for use, buy it and start using it immediately. I did buy a spare of this knife, something I learned to do while buying traditional knives. That makes it a lot easier if you have issues like US :)

I've found I have to just start using it right away. I used to spend time sharpening and after I never wanted to mess up the edge but that has passed also. I have enjoyed carrying a knife ten fold since I loosened up about it, but it was a challenge and it took years. :)

Kevin
 
richstag said:
Once I got used to the three finger grip and added the lanyard with bead for better security I have no complaints. I really like the lightweight feel too.

With that said, what can you tell me about those aftermarket grips? I just looked them up and I see they are an open back design? I do not prefer that for my knives as coins and such can hit the edge. I appreciate any further info you can give me on my options!

Weights would be a great additional bit of info.

Kevin
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I like to have the back closed for the same reason. Coins, keys, etc. can hit the blade and ruin the edge.

I know that Cuscadi makes scales with a backspacer that comes all the way up to where the stock scales do. I have a Mini Ritter with Cuscadi scales on the way and it's a "closed back."

 
Wow those are stunning!! What material is that? I would love to strip this blade and get a set like that on there some time down the road!

Kevin

Flint Hills said:
I like to have the back closed for the same reason. Coins, keys, etc. can hit the blade and ruin the edge.

I know that Cuscadi makes scales with a backspacer that comes all the way up to where the stock scales do. I have a Mini Ritter with Cuscadi scales on the way and it's a "closed back."

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richstag said:
Wow those are stunning!! What material is that? I would love to strip this blade and get a set like that on there some time down the road!

Kevin
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It's Thuja wood. I had never heard of it before, but they look nice! I've had a 555hg mini grip for a while and I really like it. I've been wanting a Mini Ritter dressed up with some cool scales and I just bought this one from the emporium here. Should be here next week, I'm really looking forward to it!
 
That is awesome! If you would not mind posting more pictures when you get it I would be very grateful.
 
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