CPM-S110V - What do ya think?

Oh well now that we're back on track, how well does S110V respond to a strop between sharpening ?
 
Leo3an said:
Ah thank you. I thought the video was trying to proove something.. i dont know rolling vs chipping. I just thought video seemed off.
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I made the video, I was there, no chipping or rolling.
I'm satisfied with the steel, I've carried the knife since January 2016 when they first came out.

Argee to disargee, it's a simple test, do it yourself.


Shawn
 
skyhorse said:
Oh well now that we're back on track, how well does S110V respond to a strop between sharpening ?
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Depends how sharp it was to Begin with, if your rockin' a crisp v edge with low angles and medium finish no burr and you catch it right when it drops the hair popping sharpeness it will come back but not as good as a freshly Sharpened edge.
Also needs diamond for a crisp stroping to really get what I like. the chromium oxide green seems to smooth the apex more, less bite, less crisp then 1 micron diamond.
 
I was gifted a Manix LW S110V by a friend and it has become my main work knife. It holds a working edge much longer than my earlier work knives in S30V, ZDP-189, or M390. I am very impressed with it, have experienced zero chipping problems.
 
skyhorse said:
Oh well now that we're back on track, how well does S110V respond to a strop between sharpening ?
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Sky, I have made three Hunters of S110V and it’s a Bi£^% to sharpen and be prepared for lots of Stropping!———// A hard leather loaded with Green Chrome Compound works best in my 3 blade making experience!!
 
DeadboxHero said:
I made the video, I was there, no chipping or rolling.
I'm satisfied with the steel, I've carried the knife since January 2016 when they first came out.

Argee to disargee, it's a simple test, do it yourself.


Shawn
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I would need to rewatch and relisten to the video but I feel that in your cut test after the penny is chopped the edge is tested up to the point where the chop occurred not showing if the edge suffered any damage or not. This makes it a poor video to show anything more than that it can chop a penny. I do want to know was it a factory edge/factory angle or had the edge been redone at a different angle? This would impact the damage the edge might suffer. I do think S110V is a great steel and is more prone to chipping when compared to "softer" steels but that is generally the case.
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
Sky, I have made three Hunters of S110V and it’s a Bi£^% to sharpen and be prepared for lots of Stropping!———// A hard leather loaded with Green Chrome Compound works best in my 3 blade making experience!!
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I use the green for most all my knives, think I'll be making a harder leather strop for this steel. Thanks Laurence !
 
DeadboxHero said:
Depends how sharp it was to Begin with, if your rockin' a crisp v edge with low angles and medium finish no burr and you catch it right when it drops the hair popping sharpeness it will come back but not as good as a freshly Sharpened edge.
Also needs diamond for a crisp stroping to really get what I like. the chromium oxide green seems to smooth the apex more, less bite, less crisp then 1 micron diamond.
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In reference to the diamond compound are you using paste or spray? Thanks:thumbsup:
 
skyhorse said:
I use the green for most all my knives, think I'll be making a harder leather strop for this steel. Thanks Laurence !
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I really like the Green Chrome for all! It takes it about as fine as needed IMHO. Too fine and you don’t have any micro teeth to start the cut..
 
I've never tried the diamond compound yet, the toughest steel I typically sharpen is M4 and Elmax.
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
I’ve used diamond and while you may prefer it, for the Culinary & Hunters I make & sharpen I prefer going with Green chrome!
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Haha agree to disagree but hear me out.

I tried the green chrome, from bark river to no name to expensive AF koyo brand even just the raw green powder which works best on leather since you don't gunk up the leather with wax and it spreads evenly, no clumpy streaks from crayoning on waxy sticks that are made for buffing wheels.

I found that 1 micron diamond gives a better bite to the edge and it's especially noticeable on super steels to a discerning sharpener.
I use the green chrome powder for straight razors because it makes a smoother edge, less bite, more comfortable, but I found the green to be less effective for other applications in comparison to the diamond.

I sharpen kitchen knives on waterstones and I make hunting knives.
Here is a video of my results with my hunter
 
skyhorse said:
I've never tried the diamond compound yet, the toughest steel I typically sharpen is M4 and Elmax.
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You'll notice the difference on M4 and Elmax
But you have to have a fresh sharp AF edge BEFORE you move to the strop.

Get the hand American brand 1 micron 2oz spray.

"Mist" it on the leather.

Just a light mist

Let it dry.

Reapply as needed.

Eventually you'll have to sand and reapply on the leather to keep it supple.
 
A lot of people say its tough to sharpen, but my S110v para 3 has been a breeze. I touch it up on my sharpmaker about once a week and the one time it got really dull, I used my lansky diamond set and sharpened it no problem. My strop with white and green compound works on it too.
 
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