Craftsman 2x42 Grinder Mods

jaymeister99 said:
...The biggest reason was that the stock platen didn't come out far enough. There was about a 1/4" gap between the belt and platen....
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I had the same problem at the lower end of the platen. When adjusted all the way forward, it still stood back about 1/4". I just removed the bugga and cut the groove deeper so it could be mounted forward more, thus flush to the belt.
 
BryFry said:
Yeah, that's what I figured. :o Too bad mine is only about a week old as well!

I was just messing with it again, and now it will not get going at all on its own. I thought there was a chance that the belt was rubbing or too tight or something, so I took the belt completely off, and it still will not turn over without an assist from from my hand!

UUUG, and I just got it all set up too! Looks like it's going back to Sears for another. :mad:

At least I haven't started cutting and modding it yet.
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Your motor has a start capacitor on it. It gives the motor a "boost" to start in laymans terms. You likely have either a bad one, or a loose wire on it.... On the back of the motor should be a small cover over a 1/2"x2" or so capacitor. If there's a loose wire, your set.
If it's bad, then warranty is likely best unless you're handy with electrical.
I just replaced the capacitor on a pump on a boiler. I was quoted $1800 to purchase a replacement pump from my wholesaler. I had the local motor repair tech look at it, and he installed a $6.00 capacitor and I was up and running an hour later.

Brian
 
Good news and bad news on my 2x42...

The Good: I took apart the rarely used disc grinder. The knobs on either side of the workrest are the same thread size as the tracking screw and the screws for the platen!!! I took em off and replaced the tiny screws that hold the platen on, much easier to adjust it now. It will work great in place of the tiny screw for the tension too!

The Bad: I couldnt get the disc off so I hit it with a hammer... it broke off:mad: Now I got a stub on the end of the shaft that I can't get off! Any ideas how to get this off???
 
Phil Dwyer said:
I had the same problem at the lower end of the platen. When adjusted all the way forward, it still stood back about 1/4". I just removed the bugga and cut the groove deeper so it could be mounted forward more, thus flush to the belt.
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The left side is fine it just angles towards the back on the right side opposite of where the screws attach it. Thus it's level vertically but not horizontally?
 
duffy99 said:
The left side is fine it just angles towards the back on the right side opposite of where the screws attach it. Thus it's level vertically but not horizontally?
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You can bend it back and forth a bit if you stick it in a vise, but don't expect to get it perfect.
 
fluidsteel said:
Your motor has a start capacitor on it. It gives the motor a "boost" to start in laymans terms. You likely have either a bad one, or a loose wire on it.... On the back of the motor should be a small cover over a 1/2"x2" or so capacitor. If there's a loose wire, your set.
If it's bad, then warranty is likely best unless you're handy with electrical.
I just replaced the capacitor on a pump on a boiler. I was quoted $1800 to purchase a replacement pump from my wholesaler. I had the local motor repair tech look at it, and he installed a $6.00 capacitor and I was up and running an hour later.

Brian
Click to expand...

Thanks! That is good to know, but considering I just bought the thing, I think I'll try the return rout tomorrow.
 
Question , how much of the top/back belt guard can I cut off and still have good tracking and where should I cut exactly? I know people have done it to use scotch bright belts ? Pic's would be most welcome cause I don't wanna wreck it by cutting the wrong spot .
 
duffy99 said:
Question , how much of the top/back belt guard can I cut off and still have good tracking and where should I cut exactly? I know people have done it to use scotch bright belts ? Pic's would be most welcome cause I don't wanna wreck it by cutting the wrong spot .
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I just cut off the top of the belt guard, it still works fine. After cutting off the top there is plenty of clearance for a scotchbrite belt. I cut off to about 1/2 down across from the tracking wheel (does that make sense?). Take off the tracking assembly first!

2x42grindermods.jpg



I was going to cut off the bottom third of the belt guard but I can't figure out how to get the drive wheel off. IMO I wouldnt cut off any more than that, I think there needs to be some backbone left.

Anybody know how to get the drive wheel off???
 
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jaymeister99 said:
I just cut off the top of the belt guard, it still works fine. After cutting off the top there is plenty of clearance for a scotchbrite belt. I cut off to about 1/2 down across from the tracking wheel (does that make sense?). Take off the tracking assembly first!

2x42grindermods.jpg


I was going to cut off the bottom third of the belt guard but I can't figure out how to get the drive wheel off. IMO I wouldnt cut off any more than that, I think there needs to be some backbone left.

Anybody know how to get the drive wheel off???
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Thanks for the pic , on the to do list.
 
I have a variable speed grinder, could it be possible to take off one wheel and adapt it to accept belts then sharpen at slow speed? Seems like it would be ideal rather than hooking up another motor.
What do you guys think?

SEMPER FI TIL I DIE
 
[/QUOTE]

2x42grindermods.jpg


Anybody know how to get the drive wheel off???[/QUOTE]

It looks like the drive wheel has a snap ring holding the bearing on. Just remove the snap ring and pull the bearing out and the wheel will probably come off with it. IMO...

SEMPER FI TIL I DIE
 
russianpolander said:
I have a variable speed grinder, could it be possible to take off one wheel and adapt it to accept belts then sharpen at slow speed? Seems like it would be ideal rather than hooking up another motor.
What do you guys think?

SEMPER FI TIL I DIE
Click to expand...

I had that idea too. Its possible. But to hook it up to a Craftsman 2x42 you'll have to machine adapters for it. Or set it up with a v-belt and some pulleys. I'm going to set my 2x42 up with a similar setup once I can find a slower motor at a decent price.
 
russianpolander said:
It looks like the drive wheel has a snap ring holding the bearing on. Just remove the snap ring and pull the bearing out and the wheel will probably come off with it. IMO...
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Wish it was that easy! This is a picture of the tracking wheel. The drive wheel has a 20-21mm bolt holding it on. Its super tight and near impossible to turn it, not to mention trying to keep the drive wheel from spinning while you try to turn it.
 
I bought a new one for $20.00 with a bad motor and put a 1 hp on it and has been working great for years.............Great little unit.....Also put a glass platen on it as well.................carl...........
 
jaymeister99 said:
I had that idea too. Its possible. But to hook it up to a Craftsman 2x42 you'll have to machine adapters for it. Or set it up with a v-belt and some pulleys. I'm going to set my 2x42 up with a similar setup once I can find a slower motor at a decent price.
Click to expand...

Since Sears makes both my variable speed grinder and the 2x42 why do they not have a speed control on the sander? Maybe there is a specific reason for it? Perhaps some of the guys who have been using belt sanders for a good while may know something i'm missing. Can't you control the speed on any a/c motor with a potentiometer?

SEMPER FI TIL I DIE
 
No, a potentiometer only controlls the speed of DC motors. I believe it does it by reducing the amount of electricity that goes to the motor. This will burn out an AC motor.
 
jaymeister99 said:
The Bad: I couldnt get the disc off so I hit it with a hammer... it broke off:mad: Now I got a stub on the end of the shaft that I can't get off! Any ideas how to get this off???
Click to expand...

Mine just had a little allen wrench set screw holding the disc on the shaft.
 
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