Craftsman 2x42 Grinder Mods

jawilder said:
No, a potentiometer only controlls the speed of DC motors. I believe it does it by reducing the amount of electricity that goes to the motor. This will burn out an AC motor.
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That is correct. The only way to vary speed on an AC motor is if it's 3 phase and you have a VFD (Variable Frequency Drive).

Unfortunately you're looking at spending AT LEAST a few hundred dollars to get set up for this. And that assumes you can adapt the new 3 phase motor to the existing grinder/sander.

DC may be cheaper, but again, it will be a matter of adapting.
 
My mods , not very pretty but they work.













First ground knife ,still needs little touch-ups , hand sands then heat treat.
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VFD is for people running full-time shops for a living, or hobbyists with more money than sense. Go with pulleys and spend your cash on materials.
 
Anyone got advice on where to buy some pulleys for attaching a different motor? I have a VFD for my disc grinder, so I don't need step pulleys, just some simple ones. I just get so overwhelmed on Mcmaster, entirely too many choices and dimensions for me to think about.
 
Ace Hardware also stocks a pretty good selection. You also might try True Value. Just make sure you get a bushing as the arbor on the Craftsman is an odd size. I used a 3/8 to 1/2 bushing and had to tap it in with a light hammer. It is a very snug fit.
 
Cool, thanks guys - I'll try both of those. Yeah, I just measured the arbor and it looks like 10mm, which is obnoxious.
 
jaymeister99 said:
Did it come right off after you took off the set screw? I took off the setscrew, its loose but wont come off. How does anybody get this off???
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Yeah, mine just slipped right off. Not sure what advice to give if yours is stuck, other than the good ol' wd40 and "hit it with a hammer." Haha, sorry.
 
I know this is a little old but does anyone have any specifics about attaching the pulleys to the motors? I know the craftsman needs a bushing. But how are the pulleys secured so they don't fall off?
 
duffy99 said:
I too will be modding this week , just mounted my 2x42. The friggin' disc cover is a pain in the ass to take off and on.
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Did you end up cutting the guard on the machine? I'm thinking about doing the same on my Dayton 2x42. Do I have to take the wheel off?
 
This is an eight year old thread, but I'll answer as I just cut the guard on my old unused Craftsman this week.
It depends on your grinding skills, there is not much room there but it can be done with wheels in place IF you can control your grinder. If you are shakey, you might want to take the wheel off. And remember, the guard is there for a good reason, consider that fact also.
This thread may be locked down due to age.
 
Yeah I figured it was a long shot. Thank you for answering. Is it easy to take the wheels off. Could I just run thicker belts and hope they take down the guard w the abrasives?
 
I can't answer about the wheels, I cut mine with them on. The least bit of friction of belt on guard will bind this grinder up, not enough torque to turn it. I used a file on the guard nearest the drive wheel to open up that space enough to work a 36 grit belt in place and then carefully worked it back and forth by hand letting the abrasive take it down a bit. Finally loosened it enough to run the 36 grit, but ruined a belt to do it.
 
DanF said:
I can't answer about the wheels, I cut mine with them on. The least bit of friction of belt on guard will bind this grinder up, not enough torque to turn it. I used a file on the guard nearest the drive wheel to open up that space enough to work a 36 grit belt in place and then carefully worked it back and forth by hand letting the abrasive take it down a bit. Finally loosened it enough to run the 36 grit, but ruined a belt to do it.
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Ah I see. Did you take the wheel off to file it I'm assuming?
 
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