Crash Rat Vs. Toilet

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Sep 27, 2005
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Outstanding!! :eek: I'd like to see another blade after that much abuse! :D

Lemme guess...did the edge dent on impact with the rim? I'll bet a lot of that steel can be drawn back to the edge and sharpened up with only a little bit of work. Un-freaking-real. :cool:

:thumbup:
 
Before anyone tries this again let me interject a few things here. That type of porcelain is VERY hard, very abrasive, and I dont know of anything that could stand up to it for very long.

After many year in college in the ceramics dept. I have seen and used many many different types of porcelain, stoneware, and whiteware. Next to stoneware the type of ceramic used in toilets is the most dense. Stoneware being the only one harder because of the higher temps used to vitrify the clay.

Basically, its like chopping into a rock, not a good thing. A cast iron engine block would be a better medium.

Looks like that edge did more than roll. :eek:
 
Please post a photo after you re-sharpen the edge

I would love to see how much damage(IF ANY) remains..
 
We only used the edge on the first swing. After seeing the damage, we used the spike for the rest. The spike flattened and blunted severely as well. I feel the steel was a bit soft on the axe. That damage is from only one swing.
 
As soon as I saw the toilet I said to myself "there's going to be edge damage". I remember someone posting awhile back that they lightly tapped their Camp Tramp against a porcelain dinner plate and rolled/chipped the edge. It is hard stuff. Cinder blocks and mild steel sheet metal on car doors and hoods are nothing difficult for any decently hardened steel to chop through without sustaining too much damage; porcelains and ceramics are a whole different matter.
 
Consider the fact that they use a ceramic based plate in body armor to stop rifle rounds...
 
We only used the edge on the first swing. After seeing the damage, we used the spike for the rest. The spike flattened and blunted severely as well. I feel the steel was a bit soft on the axe. That damage is from only one swing.

THE SPIKE BLUNTED??

HOW SOFT DO YOU THINK THE AXE IS??

HEAT TREAT PROBLEM??
 
That chip looks like a bit (a LOT) more than a roll. Looks like a critical loss of steel to me; clear back to the coating. Thats getting pretty thick. Please post a pic of it resharpened. I'm having a crisis of faith after seeing these pics.
 
I wonder if would have done the same amount of damage to the edge of a blade made of INFI...
 
Holy CRAP!

one tough Toilet! i was trying to find the hardness of "vitreous china" used to make toilets.. couldn't find anything.

Wow.. sorry to hear.. but glad you shared it here.


>>> some quick Googling >>>
Vitreous is defined by the Oxford Dictionary as "glass-like, brittle, like glass in hardness" (based on the Latin word for glass- vitrum). The definition of Vitreous China as stated by BIS in IS 2556 Part I is as follows:

Strong, high-grade ceramic ware made from a mixture of suitable clays finely ground minerals such as quartz and feldspar. After firing at high temperature the ware shall not, even when unglazed, have an average value of water absorption greater than 0.5 percent of the dry weight of the ware. It shall be coated on all exposed surfaces with an impervious non-crazing vitreous glaze giving a white or colored finish.

Toilet Bases are vitreous china, a very hard and acid-resistant material. Special clay and a glaze coating are fired together in a kiln, "vitrifying" the entire thickness of the toilet into a waterproof, glass-like material. In ordinary pottery, only the glaze is waterproof; the clay remains porous.

ever noticed the words 'vitreous china' stamped on your hand basin or toilet and not known what it meant? Well, 'vitreous' means the china has been fired to a temperature of 1200 degrees Celsius which makes it totally impervious and therefore completely sanitary.
<<<
 
Cinder blocks and mild steel sheet metal on car doors and hoods are nothing difficult for any decently hardened steel to chop through without sustaining too much damage; porcelains and ceramics are a whole different matter.

That's true. I've taken a SOG axe to a cinder block before and it annihalated it. The edge was a mess, but it didn't have any critical steel loss. Breaking cinder blocks is kind of a weak thing to brag about, IMHO. I can break one with my forehead, knife-hand, and or elbow. I've been curious what these blades would do against something that was actually tough. That toilet spanked that axe. :eek:

Is that covered with the warranty?
 
I don't think that it is a matter of the steel being too soft. I accidentally tapped the blade of my Rat Daddy *lightly* against glass while cutting a watermelon and it rolled a small section of the edge. If I was trying to smash a toilet apart with the edge, I have no doubt that it would be destroyed. Porcelain is harder than most ceramic, and I would not try smashing ceramic with any edged tool.
 
I don't know much about ceramics, but I do know that the proper tool for smashing a toilet (or a cast iron tub for that matter) is a sledge hammer. :D

Don't most folks here use ceramic rods to sharpen steel? That should tell you something right there.
 
That's true. I've taken a SOG axe to a cinder block before and it annihalated it. The edge was a mess, but it didn't have any critical steel loss. Breaking cinder blocks is kind of a weak thing to brag about, IMHO. I can break one with my forehead, knife-hand, and or elbow. I've been curious what these blades would do against something that was actually tough.


Yes, there's a very good reason you see karate guys smashing cinder blocks and bricks at demos and NOT ceramics or igneous/metamorphic rock (I suppose you probably could break most sedimentary rock with your hands).
 
In the machine shop that I work in, we use ceramic tool inserts to cut hardened tool steel parts after they have been heat treated! solid carbide will not cut as good on hardened parts. ceramic is very hard stuff!
 
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