Crash Rat Vs. Toilet

Will The Factory Repair Or Replace It???

I would be ashamed to ask them to replace or fix it. Sort of like intentionally running your car into a bridge and asking the insurance company to fix it. It's just not right IMHO. If however, they are damaged while being used for their intended purpose, thats another story. I know that Busse "for instance" has warrantied some pretty weird things in the past but.........

Having said that, cool pics anyway.
 
So what does this say about the Boker ceramic blade knife? Does anyone else use ceramic in their blades?
 
dialton said:
Will The Factory Repair Or Replace It???

I would be ashamed to ask them to replace or fix it. Sort of like intentionally running your car into a bridge and asking the insurance company to fix it. It's just not right IMHO. If however, they are damaged while being used for their intended purpose, thats another story. I know that Busse "for instance" has warrantied some pretty weird things in the past but.........

Having said that, cool pics anyway.
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Technically, it isn't broken. The edge is just severely rolled. You could push the edge back into place using a chef's steel or chakmak and then give it a single pass on each side on a belt sander with a fine grit belt (or a piece of sandpaper glued to a mousepad if you don't have one) and she'd be good as new.

Seriously, and this is not directed toward the original poster nor is it an attack on anyone, if you're going to chop rocks, large animal bones, ceramics, and other hard objects, you're going to need to learn how to restore an edge.

Anyone who spends serious money on hard use knives and uses them hard ought to, at a minimum have the following in their garage:

A Delta SA-180 1X42 belt sander ($99 at Home Depot, less online)
An assortment of different grit belts for the sander and sheets of sandpaper for hand sanding
A double sided paddle strop with some green compound ($15 at Lee Valley)

You can sharpen/reprofile/repair just about any blade and any edge type (including convex) in minutes with just the above.
 
Rich_S said:
..
A Delta SA-180 1X42 belt sander ($99 at Home Depot, less online)
An assortment of different grit belts for the sander and sheets of sandpaper for hand sanding
A double sided paddle strop with some green compound ($15 at Lee Valley)..
Click to expand...
Interesting..
: : puts belt sander on shopping list : :
 
Rich_S said:
Technically, it isn't broken. The edge is just severely rolled. You could push the edge back into place using a chef's steel or chakmak and then give it a single pass on each side on a belt sander with a fine grit belt (or a piece of sandpaper glued to a mousepad if you don't have one) and she'd be good as new.

Seriously, and this is not directed toward the original poster nor is it an attack on anyone, if you're going to chop rocks, large animal bones, ceramics, and other hard objects, you're going to need to learn how to restore an edge.

Anyone who spends serious money on hard use knives and uses them hard ought to, at a minimum have the following in their garage:

A Delta SA-180 1X42 belt sander ($99 at Home Depot, less online)
An assortment of different grit belts for the sander and sheets of sandpaper for hand sanding
A double sided paddle strop with some green compound ($15 at Lee Valley)

You can sharpen/reprofile/repair just about any blade and any edge type (including convex) in minutes with just the above.
Click to expand...


I have been trying to spread this message for years!! You are, as you know, absolutely correct. You could with the above mentioned items and possibly a ceramic rod or benchstone pass that knife off as new in a few minutes. I used to spend hours at a time on DMT benchstones putting perfect edges on knives like that again. Once I realized how easy it is with the above tools I was a total convert. I also have a DMT 10" duo-sided coarse/fine benchstone, 8" coarse DMT benchstone, DMT 6" fine benchstone, and a DMT 2"x4" coarse stone, the ladder for backpacking trips. Along with a ceramic rod and two single sided leather strops, loaded with lee valley's green compound. I've had that stick for ten years and used maybe 5% of it. It will outlive me at that rate.:thumbup: :D
 
No surpise here, anytime you strike an object that is harder than steel these are the results that you'll see. This is to be expected when you are impacting something harder than hardened steel. Ceramic is extemely hard that is why they use them for knife sharpeners.

We'll be happy to resharpen it for you for the cost of shipping.


:D:D
 
Or you could ship it my way get a professional sharpening with postage paid both ways, I would just need a two day trail in my local forest.:D
 
Gravelface said:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=421583

Gary, your not working for Noss are you:D ;)
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Well, I didn't break it on purpose. I wanted to satisfy my curiousity. I read these forums every day. Everytime someone gets a new knife they are encouraged to abuse it. The people on this forum make INFI out to be indestructable. I know not to shoot it or baton it with metal. I've seen car doors and car hood stabbed with knives, quarters pounded in to, street signs and cinder blocks chopped. Excuse me for wanting to experience INFI for myself.
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yup yup :o
 
leatherman said:
OMG! Is this the same guy that thought a SK could do the same things as a Steel Heart? :eek: :eek: :eek:
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skeleton key?



heck, i did some pretty outrageous chopping with my fsh, metal frames, bricks, batoned w/ sledge.

it was a blast!! actually the only thing that caused the edge to roll was the brick. took it to a sharpener near me, and good as new.
 
Well, I hate to be the one to point this out, but, now where are you going to go to the bathroom? :eek: :D
 
I own a M6, rat trap, crash rat, scrapper 6, and a scrapper 4. I don't need excuses. I think that's weak and I am disappointed (yet, somehow not surprised) in the crash rats performance. It was made for this kind of duty. Sure, I can understand a rolled edge. What I see in the pictures is more than that. Does this mean I can only chop in the soft pine stuff to not damage the CR? Please, spare me the porcelain scare stories. There will be more Busse stuff for all of you, cause I'm waiting for some factory guy to comment on this before I spend my hard earned money on this stuff.

No more excuses. You can own it all gentlemen. Right now I'm laughing to myself, shaking my head. Wow, I did not need to see that. I would send it back.
 
"porcelain scare stories"? Porcelain is harder than most ceramics, very fine, and fired at very high temperatures. It is extremely hard stuff. Fact.
Look up some info about porcelain and ceramic if you don't believe everyone.

Eric (the bully) represents Swamp Rat, and has already responded.

There is a tool made for smashing toilets. . . it is called a sledge hammer. You cannot cut into something that is many times harder than the tool you are cutting with. . .

common sense.
 
Rat Finkenstein said:
"porcelain scare stories"? Porcelain is harder than most ceramics, very fine, and fired at very high temperatures. It is extremely hard stuff. Fact.
Look up some info about porcelain and ceramic if you don't believe everyone.

Eric (the bully) represents Swamp Rat, and has already responded.

There is a tool made for smashing toilets. . . it is called a sledge hammer. You cannot cut into something that is many times harder than the tool you are cutting with. . .

common sense.
Click to expand...

Very Well Said:thumbup: :thumbup:
 
raker13 said:
I own a M6, rat trap, crash rat, scrapper 6, and a scrapper 4. I don't need excuses. I think that's weak and I am disappointed (yet, somehow not surprised) in the crash rats performance.
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pm me and i'll send you my address so you can get rid of all your crappy knives. i wouldn't want that trash cluttering up your space any longer :jerkit:
 
FriendofBill's said:
That chip looks like a bit (a LOT) more than a roll. Looks like a critical loss of steel to me; clear back to the coating. Thats getting pretty thick. Please post a pic of it resharpened. I'm having a crisis of faith after seeing these pics.
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It doesnt look like a critical loss to me. look at the very top line along the edge, and you'll see that hte dent only dips in about 1/4" of the way through the sharpened edge. What appears to me metal smashed all the way to the caoting is actually the part of the edge that rolled towards the camera.

Honestly, Thats a decent way for the edge to react, as apposed to chipping. The only things I can think of that would be comparable in a car would be cutting through the tempered glass, or trying to cut through the hardened bolts (whatever their called when they have 3-5 lines on the top of the head). otherwise, that type of damage probably wont be inflicted on the other materials found in an automobile, at least not to that scale.

Doing that with a hammer probably would have mushroomed out the edges of the hammer face a little if it was struck at an angle. and thats a broad flat non sharpened edge :D
 
Perhaps a ball pane hammer would've been more efficient in breaking this toilet? Sorry if I sound a little sarcastic, but as far as I know, axes and knives aren't really designed to cut toilets.:)

It's a shame about the big chip/roll/dent in the blade though.:(
 
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