CS Laredo Bowie Handle Attachment

Jerry,

Nice twist on the truth there bud. You never tried to call me, my phone number is still the same, as is my mailing address and email address (which has always been in my signature line.) You went crying, plain and simple.

That is neither here nor there at this point, since I really have no desire to talk to you, and would likely delete any email you sent me. Not because I don't like your knives (and I do like some of your knives, that is why I bought them) but rather because I think you are, in general, a prick. You and Cliff try to bully every poster that does not agree with you with Bull $hit. Also you drink piss water CBL beer and smoke @ss crack gold and mild cigars. I can't respect anyone with such poor taste.

Cliff,

My point in making my posts was not to try to change your mind, you can never convice someone that is crazy that the delusions aren't real. It was to provide the reading public here with an alternate point of view. To balance out some of the heavy bias you put in. It is doubtful that you will ever see another point of view since you are so heavily biased, which makes your claims of being a scientist, and conducting objective reviews so laughable. If you sucked on Jerry Busse's porthole any harder his eyeballs would cave in.


Depite the fact that I think you are both full of crap, I do wish you peace, joy and happiness for the rest of your days.


This is a computer forum, and I have a real world to live in. One with excellent beer and good cigars.
 
Originally posted by Eric_Draven
Jerry,

Nice twist on the truth there bud. You never tried to call me, my phone number is still the same, as is my mailing address and email address (which has always been in my signature line.) You went crying, plain and simple.

That is neither here nor there at this point, since I really have no desire to talk to you, and would likely delete any email you sent me. Not because I don't like your knives (and I do like some of your knives, that is why I bought them) but rather because I think you are, in general, a prick. You and Cliff try to bully every poster that does not agree with you with Bull $hit. Also you drink piss water CBL beer and smoke @ss crack gold and mild cigars. I can't respect anyone with such poor taste.

Cliff,

My point in making my posts was not to try to change your mind, you can never convice someone that is crazy that the delusions aren't real. It was to provide the reading public here with an alternate point of view. To balance out some of the heavy bias you put in. It is doubtful that you will ever see another point of view since you are so heavily biased, which makes your claims of being a scientist, and conducting objective reviews so laughable. If you sucked on Jerry Busse's porthole any harder his eyeballs would cave in.


Depite the fact that I think you are both full of crap, I do wish you peace, joy and happiness for the rest of your days.


This is a computer forum, and I have a real world to live in. One with excellent beer and good cigars.
Click to expand...


Thanks for your response Chad. I don't think anyone could paint a more accurate picture of who you are and what your agenda is, than you just did with this post.
 
And now we return you to our regularly scheduled programming...

Does anyone who's had the kraton handle off of a Trailmaster know: (1) If they powder coat the whole thing tang and all? and (2) If the lanyard ferrule is a hard press fit into the tang hole?
 
I think that the coated CS blades are coated under the handles. If the coating is intact, it should pretty much prevent rusting, but personally I am more concerned with blood and the like seeping in under the handles when the knife is used as a hunting knife or for food prep.

Here’s a pic of the Trailmaster and a Busse Handle from Mike Turber’s To The Point article -

busse-tm-tangs.jpg



note that the CS has an extra hole in the tang to facilitate fitting a new handle.

Here’s a link to Mike’s full article -


http://www.bladeforums.com/magazine/trial/csvsbusse-1.html





- Frank
 
Originally posted by Eric_Draven
I really have no desire to talk to you, and would likely delete any email you sent me.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a good plan to me. :rolleyes:
 
Thanks Frank, this was very helpful.

From the top view (in the article) it looks like the ferrule is not a tight fit into the tang hole at all, but is instead just thin walled tubing that has been flared into large countersinks molded into the kraton. Just run a large drill bit into one side, to take out the flare, and you should be able to push the rest out the other side and then slide the kraton off.

With a rigid material like Micarta you couldn't recreate the large flares. It would be better to cut the tubing off flush and flare it just enough to hold it tight in a cylindrical hole (maybe with a little taper on each side for good measure).

The hole at the midpoint is probably just a tooling hole. I would really rather open it up to a diameter of my choosing and add two more. That way I could use three Loveless style bolts and still have a lanyard hole. Any advise on working on a hardened tang would be greatly appreciated!

Apart from that, a little bead blasting on the black linen Micarta and I think I will have corrected Cold Steel's biggest design flaw on the Trailmaster -- for about $15.
 
Jared, your lanyard tube looks just like what I was imagining. Looks like you use a little countersink on each side?
 
Chad’s re-handled Trailmaster in the pic he posted (on page 2 of this thread), looks like the scale are attached using rivets through the lanyard hole and the hole in the middle of the tang. If you do it that way, there’s no need to drill through the tang.




- Frank
 
Yeah, I see now that the Trailmaster already has a hole half way up the tang, so it'll be ready to go when I get it.

About my lanyard hole, yes I use an 82 degree countersink on it to chamfer the edges so the tubing doesn't bite into your lanyard, and it's easy to thread. It's a nice touch and functional too.
 
Here's my Dad's P.O.S. Trailmaster. This answers alot of questions. There was no detectable glue holding the handle on, they used metal shims to hold the guard tight against the blade shoulders, and apparently YES, water can and does get down under the rubber. That's rust you see there behind the guard. I'll post pictures after I'm finished fixing this mess! It's getting a Olive Drab canvas Micarta handle.
DadsTrailmaster.jpg
 
Thanks for posting that J.P., it looks like any fluids that seep under the rubber would breed bacteria – not good for a knife used on food or game.




- Frank
 
Originally posted by frank k
Thanks for posting that J.P., it looks like any fluids that seep under the rubber would breed bacteria – not good for a knife used on food or game.

- Frank
Click to expand...

Yeah well, this must be the same setup used on all the CS kraton handled knives -- including the Master Hunter, etc.

You know, Frank, it's interesting that you mention the bacteria issue. I (as a person who does not particularly like food poisoning) have wondered about this with regard to many knives sold with food processing as a potential use.

I know that in the food service professions (butchers, chefs, and the like) they make a really big deal out of the hygiene characteristics of knives -- both the design and the materials. That is one reason why there are so many Forschners with Fibrox handles being used.

Along the same lines I have always wondered about people using carbon steel knives for these purposes who wipe them down with Sentry Solutions Tuf-Cloth, Break Free CLP, etc.

I don't know what's in a Sentry Solutions Tuf-Cloth, but I'm pretty sure I don't want to eat any of it. Probably much better to use mineral oil. What's the worst that could happen if you consumed too much of that...
 
I am told that now only stainless steel knives with synthetic handles that seal out fluids are approved for food service use.

On a hunting knife those slip on rubber handles could cause problems if some blood were to seep in. Even if you were careful to clean the blade thoroughly, the blood could ooze back out onto the blade and into the sheath.

I have a Master Hunter, but I think I am going to re-handle it before I take it hunting again.

Mineral oil is a safe and effective rust preventative, you don’t want to chug a bottle of the stuff, but the trace amounts that might get onto your food from a knife blade will not cause any problems. For long term storage Vaseline is said to be very effective with very little if any toxicity concerns when cleaned off before using the knife. Most other rust preventatives are toxic and usually have warnings about ingesting them on their labels. I try to avoid using anything toxic on knives used for food even if I intend to clean them very thoroughly before use.




- Frank
 
Cooking oil is OK for the VERY short term (like a hunting trip), but I have left it on too long and it can really go bad pretty quickly. I don't know if it could make you sick, but rancid oil is not very appetizing. And you really don't want it getting into your sheath.
 
Well guys, I finished re-handling my fathers old Trailmaster. I made a 4 piece handle using both olive drab linen and black linen micarta. I used 4, 3/32" brass pins and brass lanyard tubing. The whole deal is epoxied with JB Weld. This scan looks really poor and I apologize. I had no time to take proper photos, I had to get it back to him right away. You can't see it in the scan but I gave the blade a soak in ferric choride whic turned the blade jet black. I then polished it out with Flitz and gave it the mustard tratment. it came out with an outstanding camouflage appearance!
NewHandle.jpg
 
Mr. Placeknives:
What is the mustard treatment?

Your handle design looks very nice, and the execution looks excellent.
I am sure your father will love it. Great job.
 
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