I'm all for hard-use knives and such, but isn't this a perfect example why you should use the right tool for the job?
I mean really, are any knives designed and marketed as replacing an axe? I'm pretty sure that, while CS has some outrageous marketing/abuse videos, they do not explicitly market any of their blades as replacing an axe, a screwdriver, a hammer, etc.
dr, you might benefit from reading the posts in this thread. You're sorta' coming in
after the conversation.
All leading authorities I can locate in the U.S. and Europe regard batoning as typical, routine work for a fixed-blade knife. That includes those who make the knives. Some fixed-blades are more suitable - those with a single edge. They have done it, 1000's have done it -- Hell, I have done it as recently as yesterday -- with 5/16" thick knives, 1/16" knives and everything in between, and the knife looked unchanged afterwards (Yesterday it was a 1/8" thick Breeden in 1095.). No big deal.
One maker has identified a technique, rocking the handle down and hitting the tip, thus creating a fulcrum near the handle and leverage (the length of the blade) as more likely to produce failure when batoning, especially in knives with a blade/tang shoulder. I'll bet you can find techniques more likely to damage a knife in non-batoning tasks. I have seen poor technique break the handles on more axes than I can recall - usually in the zone right under the blade. HOLY MISSHIT!!!
In any case, if you have a knife and do not have an axe, chain saw, or maul, but still need to get down to interior wood -- or to make a hearth board for a bow and drill set, it might be nice to know about this commonly-taught survival technique -- and to practice it some.
As for the math

, one is one and two is two. Moreover, the knife you have "with you" is not necessarily the "best" (or even a good) survival knife - it's just the knife you have to survive with.