Cts-20cp

I know my lfti cpm m4 holds just better then s30 and imm not happy with it
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Benchmade hardens the steel a couple of points lower than the Spyderco Gayle Bradley, which also has a much thinner blade, and a lower angle bevel. It's like a whole different steel. I'm very unimpressed with my lfti as well. The Bradley or mule are a whole different matter though.

Joe
 
spydusse said:
I know my lfti cpm m4 holds just better then s30 and imm not happy with it
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I was not impressed with the butterfly heat treat on the M4 knives I've had. The reason for that is because I was using the Gayle Bradley for a while before I even tried the former. It's hard to beat CPM-M4 at 64-65RC. I cut 120+ data cables (4 pair solid strand CAT5) with my Gayle Bradley and there was 1 micro chip near the tip. The knife still sliced paper really well after that.
The Mastiff said:
Benchmade hardens the steel a couple of points lower than the Spyderco Gayle Bradley, which also has a much thinner blade, and a lower angle bevel. It's like a whole different steel. I'm very unimpressed with my lfti as well. The Bradley or mule are a whole different matter though.

Joe
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:thumbup:
 
My cousin has a bradley and I hate the ergos. I don't want the maniix in m4. The rust in the well water I use at work is brutal .(all reasons I don't own a spydie in m4) My first spyderco in m4 will be that lg bradley2 they showed at shot.....if they make the knife and if they use m4 . As for the lfti being to thick
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mines not overly thick anymore .....shaved that bad boy back quite a bit
 
RevDevil said:
I'm thinking about sharpening mine, but I'm wondering what timeframe & use we would be talking about to get the factory edge to not cleanly cut paper.
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It's going to take a lot to get it that dull I can tell you from what I have seen.
 
CPM-M4

Sorry for the topic drift but I just reprofiled a M4 Manix 2 to 20 degrees inclusive. It took me a LONG time to thin out the thicker parts of the edge. The steel is tough! It's the longest I've spent on the grit wheel for a single knife and I've done everything from CTS-XHP, S90v to ZDP-189. It's no wonder the thing holds an edge for so long. Prepare to spend some long hours if you plan to grind M4 by hand. :)
 
Spydusse, I appreciate the way you know what you like, and need. You are a knife user, not really just a collector. Sometimes you have to modify them for your own needs.

Sorry for the topic drift but I just reprofiled a M4 Manix 2 to 20 degrees inclusive. It took me a LONG time to thin out the thicker parts of the edge
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It's very wear resistant and tough to boot.

One time I tried filing some annealed S125V with diamond files. Now I've made knives with just files before including D2. That unhardened S125V cured me of that for good. :)

Joe
 
Ankerson said:
It's going to take a lot to get it that dull I can tell you from what I have seen.
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You were right in the review you did, it's really hard to tell the difference between S90V and 20CP. I have not used it enough to build a definitive opinion yet. I spent an hour yesterday looking for some double walled cardboard to do some comparison cuts, no luck. I think I'm off to the compactor today and see if I can spot a 3'x3' piece. We recently got tons of 2011 phone books delivered at work, everyone has already picked up their new and dropped off their old (there are tons just sitting there). I wonder how that medium could be used to compare the 2 steels. Maybe some diagonal cuts along the 4 edges. I'll have to think about it some more. :)
 
Wow day 4 and I wasn't seeing any wear untill..... its raining here in jersey today so its been somewhat slow here today at nursery. I decided to cut some hoses that have holes and splice them . After finishing fixing a couple hoses she won't slice paper striaght down and it grabs on slicing cuts of paper. It still shaves though ,overall I am very pleased. If I had to say one steel it reminds me of that be xhp ,very aggresive cutter and shaves forever.
 
Nope insiide green house. The hoses were spitting so bad I used the excess water that was on them to kinda clean them before I cut. Believeme I know what dirt does to a edge .when trailers come in with tarps covering trees tied down to trailer cutting all that filthy twine beats the crap out of most steels
 
Ok you ready for me to stir the pot. I love cts20cp but I'm hating the para2. I feel like the handle kind of bunches my fingers together. the number one problem though is the lock, it sticks everytime. I have tried the penciil thing and it didn't help at all . At first I thought it would smooth out overtime but seems to be getting worst. I like to think I have some serious man hands from my job but after using this knife alot today and the edge on the lock my thumb is raw. I actually have a day off 2moro I might ppost a video, you can hear the lock pop closed and see the pressure it takes. It actually will throw the blade a little bit fwd as I disengage.
 
spydusse said:
Ok you ready for me to stir the pot. I love cts20cp but I'm hating the para2. I feel like the handle kind of bunches my fingers together. the number one problem though is the lock, it sticks everytime. I have tried the penciil thing and it didn't help at all . At first I thought it would smooth out overtime but seems to be getting worst. I like to think I have some serious man hands from my job but after using this knife alot today and the edge on the lock my thumb is raw. I actually have a day off 2moro I might ppost a video, you can hear the lock pop closed and see the pressure it takes. It actually will throw the blade a little bit fwd as I disengage.
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One of my Para 2s started sticking really badly after I adjusted the pivot tension. I loosened it a tiny bit and the lock improved right away. A little adjustment seems to go a long way.
 
My cousiin told me the same thing but the thing is the blade is super fast already . I think if I losen any further I might develop blade play . Ill give it a try though .
 
Nope ,no help. Its really bad ,I'm thinking it might be taking a trip back to Golden
 
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Just washed it yesterday. Ii would like to break it down and give a look at the inside but I don't want to void warranty .I really feel like there is a small piece of steel pretruding
 
Just pllayed with pivot then cleaned ,then oiled . None of it helped in the least . Just aggravated myself .tiime for bed .will ppost video 2moro
 
have you tried messing with the stop pin screw ? iirc it solved some blade play problem it may help on the lockup, it's worth a try.
 
No problem here. Some knives work, some don't - it's all in the hands of the user. That's why there are lots of choices - choice is good. :thumbup: Good luck with the sticking. Some of my compression locks stick, some don't. I haven't ever had any success with the ones that do, including extensive use/break-in. :confused:

spydusse said:
Ok you ready for me to stir the pot. I love cts20cp but I'm hating the para2. I feel like the handle kind of bunches my fingers together. the number one problem though is the lock, it sticks everytime. I have tried the penciil thing and it didn't help at all . At first I thought it would smooth out overtime but seems to be getting worst. I like to think I have some serious man hands from my job but after using this knife alot today and the edge on the lock my thumb is raw. I actually have a day off 2moro I might ppost a video, you can hear the lock pop closed and see the pressure it takes. It actually will throw the blade a little bit fwd as I disengage.
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