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that is all easy stuff. will do. i will have an updated profile and picture this afternoon.
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Custom chopper WIP
- Thread starter Knifemaker87
- Start date
that is all easy stuff. will do. i will have an updated profile and picture this afternoon.
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Got it. going to do some hand work on the blade today or tommorow and heat treat them on Wensday. I ordered some new belts so those should help with keeping everything crisp and clean. going to wait on tapering them till i have the sharp belts rather than screwing them up wiht dull stuff.
here are the profiles. i tried to get a good background to show the profiles on. Got the handle tubing and flaring dies sorted out so that should work out well. if you want to change anything to the profile it should be done before i heat treat it. and i dont want to scare you with the contoured bevel on the edge. the finished grind will all be fared in together. there will be no abrupt line like there is now.
here are the profiles. i tried to get a good background to show the profiles on. Got the handle tubing and flaring dies sorted out so that should work out well. if you want to change anything to the profile it should be done before i heat treat it. and i dont want to scare you with the contoured bevel on the edge. the finished grind will all be fared in together. there will be no abrupt line like there is now.
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I really like them...like the way you tapered the blade on the chopper a little with the visible little hump on the spine...and the drop point is spot on.
I don't think i want any exposed 'forging' color like i originally thought i would...after heat treating you can certainly fully sand the whole blade - don't leave any exposed 'black color' on the blade or any part of exposed steel (pummel).
there should only be 2 SS tube pins holding the black linen/canvas micarta scales on the chopper with the extra lanyard hole in the exposed pummel. On the nessie you can have 2 evenly spaced SS tube pins with one lower more rear set tube pin where the lanyard would typically go.
Use the grippiest micarta you think, without a shiny finish, but rather semi - rough.
So far so good Chris, coming along nicely.
I don't think i want any exposed 'forging' color like i originally thought i would...after heat treating you can certainly fully sand the whole blade - don't leave any exposed 'black color' on the blade or any part of exposed steel (pummel).
there should only be 2 SS tube pins holding the black linen/canvas micarta scales on the chopper with the extra lanyard hole in the exposed pummel. On the nessie you can have 2 evenly spaced SS tube pins with one lower more rear set tube pin where the lanyard would typically go.
Use the grippiest micarta you think, without a shiny finish, but rather semi - rough.
So far so good Chris, coming along nicely.
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when we get to the shaping of the handles, i like the contour of these grips...as far as ergos go (obviously exposing a slight pummel with lanyard hole on the chopper - on the nessie it can cover the whole pummel)
just an idea of what the profile and back view of the grips should look like...(in fact you can use the blade grind finish that you see in the pics below, as a guide as to how you should make those two when you get to the sanding part after heat treating them)
just an idea of what the profile and back view of the grips should look like...(in fact you can use the blade grind finish that you see in the pics below, as a guide as to how you should make those two when you get to the sanding part after heat treating them)
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Do you want the a lanyard hole in front of the grip as well? and only 2 SS tube pins in the shopper with a lanyard hole in the exposted pommel on the chopper. but three tube pin on the nessie right?
i do have rubber mat like in the pictures of the benchmade if you would prefer that over micarta.
So you want that type of blade finish? hand sanding takes the marks horozontally instead of vertically as on the benchmade, is that what you were wanting?
i do have rubber mat like in the pictures of the benchmade if you would prefer that over micarta.
So you want that type of blade finish? hand sanding takes the marks horozontally instead of vertically as on the benchmade, is that what you were wanting?
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Chris,
i don't care much for the sand marks if they are vertical or horizontal, once i cut with it, those horizontal marks will be messed up anyway. If i had a preference yes, i would like the horizontal sand marks by hand, they make for a prettier blade...
what i was referring to above was not the sanded finish but the grind of the finished blade. I would like the grind to finish off on top with barely a visible lip at the very top of the spine, meaning full grinds ALLLMOST to the spine on both, I don't think i like the black line on the current 'saber grind' on the Nessie and the chopper can also get a slightly higher grind pretty much to how you see it on the Benchmade chopper, that's what i meant in my initial comment.
I would like a satin looking blade finish on both, not shiny but not dull...i know hand sanding takes a bunch of time and it would be easier to use a fine grit belt in order to accomplish the satin look without the horizontal hand sanded lines, if that will save me some time/money, do that...i would hate to have a real nice hand sanded finish only to see it go to hell on the first chop.
Don't misunderstand me, i don't want to see 'grind' marks up and down the blade, i would like a satin finish, but if you can accomplish that by belt faster/cheaper, go that route.
I don't want rubber mat, it chips off and looks ugly once used up a little. I believe the grips on the Benchmade are something else, not horse mat rubber...
The semi-rough micarta is grippy enough and sands much easier/faster...also stays looking nicer - longer.
Yes, 2 pins on ea. side of the scale as in the Benchmade knife pic, evenly spaced - the Nessie will have grip going all the way back, nothing exposed, so you can add a lanyard hole (a third tube pin) in the butt of the grip, the Chopper will have an exposed pummel like in my last drawing on the previous page, and that's where you'll drill a lanyard hole in that one. Same 2 evenly spaced tube pins in the scales of the Chopper
I wanted to find you a back view pic of the Benchmade grip so you can see the contour of the grips from the rear, but i'm having a hard time finding one. They are pretty much as on my prybar knife here in this pic below...fatter on the bottom with a palm swell then tapering towards the top...
i don't care much for the sand marks if they are vertical or horizontal, once i cut with it, those horizontal marks will be messed up anyway. If i had a preference yes, i would like the horizontal sand marks by hand, they make for a prettier blade...
what i was referring to above was not the sanded finish but the grind of the finished blade. I would like the grind to finish off on top with barely a visible lip at the very top of the spine, meaning full grinds ALLLMOST to the spine on both, I don't think i like the black line on the current 'saber grind' on the Nessie and the chopper can also get a slightly higher grind pretty much to how you see it on the Benchmade chopper, that's what i meant in my initial comment.
I would like a satin looking blade finish on both, not shiny but not dull...i know hand sanding takes a bunch of time and it would be easier to use a fine grit belt in order to accomplish the satin look without the horizontal hand sanded lines, if that will save me some time/money, do that...i would hate to have a real nice hand sanded finish only to see it go to hell on the first chop.
Don't misunderstand me, i don't want to see 'grind' marks up and down the blade, i would like a satin finish, but if you can accomplish that by belt faster/cheaper, go that route.
I don't want rubber mat, it chips off and looks ugly once used up a little. I believe the grips on the Benchmade are something else, not horse mat rubber...
The semi-rough micarta is grippy enough and sands much easier/faster...also stays looking nicer - longer.
Yes, 2 pins on ea. side of the scale as in the Benchmade knife pic, evenly spaced - the Nessie will have grip going all the way back, nothing exposed, so you can add a lanyard hole (a third tube pin) in the butt of the grip, the Chopper will have an exposed pummel like in my last drawing on the previous page, and that's where you'll drill a lanyard hole in that one. Same 2 evenly spaced tube pins in the scales of the Chopper
I wanted to find you a back view pic of the Benchmade grip so you can see the contour of the grips from the rear, but i'm having a hard time finding one. They are pretty much as on my prybar knife here in this pic below...fatter on the bottom with a palm swell then tapering towards the top...
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slightly off topic Chris...
think you can grind the CPM M4 on one of these 171 Choppers to make a tip without ruining the blade...?
Is that even doable? Seems nobody can make a chopper in M4 cheaper than Benchmade in fact i'm finding quotes upwards of $800-1000 for one just like the Benchmade in M4
Would grinding a tip on one be a reality?
check it out...
think you can grind the CPM M4 on one of these 171 Choppers to make a tip without ruining the blade...?
Is that even doable? Seems nobody can make a chopper in M4 cheaper than Benchmade in fact i'm finding quotes upwards of $800-1000 for one just like the Benchmade in M4
Would grinding a tip on one be a reality?
check it out...
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slightly off topic Chris...
think you can grind the CPM M4 on one of these 171 Choppers to make a tip without ruining the blade...?
Is that even doable? Seems nobody can make a chopper in M4 cheaper than Benchmade in fact i'm finding quotes upwards of $800-1000 for one just like the Benchmade in M4
Would grinding a tip on one be a reality?
check it out...
i can defiantly grind it without heating it up so much as to loose the heat treat. the trick will be getting the cutting edge to blend in. however, it is doable.
so my only question for you informative post is, are you asking me to move the grind lines almost all the way up the blade? or just remove the "black" areas by finishing them satin?
The blades will be satin hand finished, no problem it should be a robust finish that wont get damaged by work, and i agree it is prettier than vertical.
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'course...you can go to town with different variations but is it doable? I haven't the slightest idea what grinding a tip would do to an already heat treated blade, not to mention to cpm M4 which i hear is not the easiest to grind
excuse the side tracking...we can discuss this by PM
back to our regularly scheduled program
excuse the side tracking...we can discuss this by PM
back to our regularly scheduled program
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y'know, I really feel like I gotta tell you that I'm feeling your stoke man:thumbup:.
Chris Moss is a great knife maker.
I use knives similar to the one you are having made, on a regular basis.
The one Moss knife I have is one of the best designed knives I have- he designed it. Everything about it is right, and it's made extremely well. It's 1095 as well.
It holds an edge as well as any other knife I own, and I use it more frequently because I bring it with me every time I go mountain biking, and I use it almost every time I ride. Well, in the fall and winter months mostly, as that is when the storms plug up the trails with deadfall.
To be honest with you, I'm not particularly keen on your design. I feel that it is too much and that it will be too heavy to be practical, unless it is ground super thin in which case it won't handle the heavy hitting this particular design seems to be built for, and 1095- well, it's good but I wouldn't go super thin with it where impact is a consideration. If all you want to do is hack thru 2x4s, it'll rock, but lighter stuff? My wrists hurt just thinkin about it. But that is my opinion only and the wonderful thing about custom knives is that you can have one made for YOU, the way you want it.
Which brings me right back to where I started. I'm stoked for you, and for Chris. I'm looking forward to the progression of this thread, and let me say one more time that Chris Moss is a man to take note of. He's the complete package and if he sticks with this for another 10 years, I think we will see amazing things. More, amazing things.
Chris Moss is a great knife maker.
I use knives similar to the one you are having made, on a regular basis.
The one Moss knife I have is one of the best designed knives I have- he designed it. Everything about it is right, and it's made extremely well. It's 1095 as well.
It holds an edge as well as any other knife I own, and I use it more frequently because I bring it with me every time I go mountain biking, and I use it almost every time I ride. Well, in the fall and winter months mostly, as that is when the storms plug up the trails with deadfall.
To be honest with you, I'm not particularly keen on your design. I feel that it is too much and that it will be too heavy to be practical, unless it is ground super thin in which case it won't handle the heavy hitting this particular design seems to be built for, and 1095- well, it's good but I wouldn't go super thin with it where impact is a consideration. If all you want to do is hack thru 2x4s, it'll rock, but lighter stuff? My wrists hurt just thinkin about it. But that is my opinion only and the wonderful thing about custom knives is that you can have one made for YOU, the way you want it.
Which brings me right back to where I started. I'm stoked for you, and for Chris. I'm looking forward to the progression of this thread, and let me say one more time that Chris Moss is a man to take note of. He's the complete package and if he sticks with this for another 10 years, I think we will see amazing things. More, amazing things.
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it's 5160 not 1095
i have a .250" 10" big knife, it feels light to me, but then again, i have Popeye forearms...
this one is tapered all the way to the tip and in the tang it's pretty thin, so maybe that's why it feels so light
I think Chris will taper these two as well, maybe not to this extent but i'm hoping he will taper them some at least in the tip if not in the tang.
I've had heavier, thicker knives, i don't mind a heavy knife if the grind is right and edge is sharp, the weight will only help it cut better
i have a .250" 10" big knife, it feels light to me, but then again, i have Popeye forearms...
this one is tapered all the way to the tip and in the tang it's pretty thin, so maybe that's why it feels so light
I think Chris will taper these two as well, maybe not to this extent but i'm hoping he will taper them some at least in the tip if not in the tang.
I've had heavier, thicker knives, i don't mind a heavy knife if the grind is right and edge is sharp, the weight will only help it cut better
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Lorien.
thanks for the kind words! i am really glad that you like your knife. it is really nice to hear that the knives i have made are being used and working well. I appreciate it! I was wondering though, which one do you have?
sounds good! I got a bunch of Norton Ceramic belts. I am normally a 3M guy but they place i buy them from didnt have the belts i wanted. it should grind that thin stainless just fine. how thick is the spine near the tip? and also.. when do you leave i am going to do my best to have the knives to you before you go.
It rained cats and dogs last night so i didnt get the blade heat treated. supposed to have better weather tonight. *fingers crossed*
also... i made a set of tube flaring dies for the arbor press a friend is letting me borrow.
thanks man! i am hoping to have a good update about a successful heat treat tonight. then the changes will be minimal. gotta watch that hardened edge.
thanks for the kind words! i am really glad that you like your knife. it is really nice to hear that the knives i have made are being used and working well. I appreciate it! I was wondering though, which one do you have?
Chris, when you finish these i'll send you a Benchmade 171 i just picked up, to do the re-grind on the tip, i think i'll go with the second drawing...
you might need to stock up on belts.
sounds good! I got a bunch of Norton Ceramic belts. I am normally a 3M guy but they place i buy them from didnt have the belts i wanted. it should grind that thin stainless just fine. how thick is the spine near the tip? and also.. when do you leave i am going to do my best to have the knives to you before you go.
It rained cats and dogs last night so i didnt get the blade heat treated. supposed to have better weather tonight. *fingers crossed*
also... i made a set of tube flaring dies for the arbor press a friend is letting me borrow.
Great thread Chris!
A lot of changes to keep you on your toes!!
thanks man! i am hoping to have a good update about a successful heat treat tonight. then the changes will be minimal. gotta watch that hardened edge.
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No rush Chris, i'm gonna be state side another 3 weeks or so, but need the time to get kydex made for them...
the Benchmade chopper is cpm M4, it's supposed to be fairly hard to grind, but not M390 hard. It's got a pretty thick spine, around .298 i think but not sure (cause i don't have it yet) how it tapers in the tip, i'll let you know when i get it and take pics for you.
the Benchmade chopper is cpm M4, it's supposed to be fairly hard to grind, but not M390 hard. It's got a pretty thick spine, around .298 i think but not sure (cause i don't have it yet) how it tapers in the tip, i'll let you know when i get it and take pics for you.