Cutting blade blanks

A blade change on my lowly HF takes 10 minutes, but that is because the table screws into the base. Kind of a pain but well worth it. I use the 20 tooth for everything. They last a certain amount of time and then break. Been using Morse brand blades, does anybody have any comparisons as far as blade longevity. Thanks


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rjedoaks said:
A blade change on my lowly HF takes 10 minutes, but that is because the table screws into the base. Kind of a pain but well worth it. I use the 20 tooth for everything. They last a certain amount of time and then break. Been using Morse brand blades, does anybody have any comparisons as far as blade longevity. Thanks


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Does Lennox make blades for them?
 
Horsewright said:
I just don't see that guys. Now I'll agree on a standard wood cutting upright bandsaw as a pita to change, no doubt. However, gotta disagree on the portaband. One thumb screw to take it off the Swag table, lay the saw sideways on the table blade up, flip the tension lever, old blade off and new blade on, flip the tension lever, place the saw back in the Swag table and redo the thumb screw. From cutting with the old blade to cutting with the new blade maybe a minute. Took me longer to type it than do it. Just don't see the pita in changing a portaband blade. But thats the great thing here, guys can find what works for them. Your mileage may vary. I've been tracking the processes in my shop lately, trying to find an answer to that age old knife making question am I charging correctly. On a group of 45 blades (AEB-L and damamscus), cutting from the stock and profiling on disc, belt and small wheel, ready to start drilling holes 5 to 7 minutes depending on the complexity and size of the blade. That was over the whole batch average. That included 3 customer phone calls, one shop visit and a blade change, as life does happen while you're working.
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Dave what portaband do you have? Millwalkue?
 
Lenox does make blades for portabands. I am going to try their bi metal blades. The Milwaukee ones aren't lasting very long for me.
 
Just looked it up and the NEW HF portaband does have a tension lever so changing blades will not be an issue at all. When I get that I'll probably grab some 24 this Lennox bitch metal blades to go with it.
 
Kevin McGovern said:
Lenox does make blades for portabands. I am going to try their bi metal blades. The Milwaukee ones aren't lasting very long for me.
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I've got the Lenox 24tpi from Lowes and have been abusing it for a while now. I've cut at least 10 blanks and a ton of other mild steel shop projects and it's still cutting like new. I even twist on it quite a bid to get around slight curves in handle profiles on the blanks.
 
kuraki said:
I'm with Larry. I hate changing portaband blades. Mostly because the thing is oddly shaped so hard to sit down and position, and because I have to remove a bunch of screws without losing them to get the cover on and off.

So I cut everything with 30 TPI and only change when it's dull.
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I leave the cover off.....:foot:
 
Maelstrom78 said:
I leave the cover off.....:foot:
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I am about the last one you could consider a safety nazi, but I won't risk that because I find myself holding the thing in my hands in just about every configuration but the intended one. But if I was using a stand, I'd probably do the same thing.
 
i have one of the HF new models. it has no guard, unless you refer to the shoe. I removed that and replaced it with a table.
 
I have the Dewalt portaband, DWM 120 variable Speed is the model. I prefer the Lennox blades over the Milwaukee but honestly end up using the Milwaukee more often as I can pick them up locally at Home Depot. Lowe's carries the Lennox blades but I don't go to town that often. The thumbscrew mentioned holds the saw to the Swag table. Blade changing on this saw is simply flipping the tension lever off and then flipping it back on once you are done.
 
kuraki said:
I am about the last one you could consider a safety nazi, but I won't risk that because I find myself holding the thing in my hands in just about every configuration but the intended one. But if I was using a stand, I'd probably do the same thing.
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Back when I did use the cover I cut off the very bottom to let swarf drop out instead of accumulating inside the works.

Then I lost some of the screws and it fell off a couple of times because I had the remaining one hand tightened and it vibrated out...then the blinding rage......then the twisting and the stomping of the guard.....

Just kidding. It did fall off a couple of times and then I think it got thrown away in the great shop revamp this year.
 
The Lennox are over double the price of the MK.. If they lasted 2/3 times longer than yeah. Every single one of my blades have broken from fatigue, but they take a beating. I may try the Lennox.



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I have been burning out the Milwaukee blades after six stainless blanks. Not impressed with them I think the ones I had before were Lennox and they lasted much longer. The Milwaukee blades I had also had a pronounced joint that thumped every revolution. Kind of annoying.
 
I use the 24tpi lenox blades from lowes but order them off the net. Box of 3 is about $26 shipped
 
My portaband is on alder model and just has a hand crank to tension the blade. My homemade table has to be removed, but it's going to be replaced for a better one. The table currently is the access door to a small breaker box with a slit cut in it. I was going for something to get me by that I had laying around. It has too much flex on it but works. Now that I found a good steel suplier near my work it's getting an upgrade this winter that will be sturdier and I won't need any tools to change the blade.
 
You will have to get them mail order but Starrett Portaband blades are usually priced right and as good as the Lennox Bi-metal I have been using. The Milwaukee blades are very dissapointing to me. I buy Starrett and Lenoox depending on the deal and I have had good use from the 14/18 blades. I still hate changing them though. Larry
 
pleasanthill said:
My portaband is on alder model and just has a hand crank to tension the blade. My homemade table has to be removed, but it's going to be replaced for a better one. The table currently is the access door to a small breaker box with a slit cut in it. I was going for something to get me by that I had laying around. It has too much flex on it but works. Now that I found a good steel suplier near my work it's getting an upgrade this winter that will be sturdier and I won't need any tools to change the blade.
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I've seen guys not even use a table and just use that little shelf that already on there with success.
I'd still like a Swag table just because I don't want to constantly take is out of a vice.
 
Maelstrom78 said:
Back when I did use the cover I cut off the very bottom to let swarf drop out instead of accumulating inside the works.

Then I lost some of the screws and it fell off a couple of times because I had the remaining one hand tightened and it vibrated out...then the blinding rage......then the twisting and the stomping of the guard.....

Just kidding. It did fall off a couple of times and then I think it got thrown away in the great shop revamp this year.
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See, I think we'd get along just fine. :D
 
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