Decided to make my own knife...advice would be welcome

[tryppyr]

Not meaning to pound on you, but I started the same way you're starting... headstrong, indifferent to advice, had to learn things my way. The difference is I wasn't on a tight budget. So I can tell you from experience what the downsides are for the lower cost tools.

1x30 has very limited space for you to work. Mostly you'll be doing slack belt grinding because the platen is so small and the contact wheel is non-existant. You could use the top idler wheel as a contact wheel, but the results suck and it is a very dangerour way to work. Slack belt grinding means you'll be cranking out convex grinds no matter how hard you try for full flat. You can TRY using the idler wheel to achieve a hollow grind, but it will be VERY rough going, and utterly uneven. One of the advantages of 1x30 is that you can get more belts for it than you could the 4x36, if you know where to shop (supergrit.com, for example). Some people have successfully modified 1x30 sanders, but let's face it, they still aren't very strong or dependable. With its tiny 1/3HP motor, I guarantee you will bog it down many times for every blade you grind. You'll eventually get the hang of using a lighter touch and it won't seem so bad then.

2x42 is used by a lot of new knifemakers and some crank out reasonably good knives with them. I never used one, mostly because I went straight to a 2x72 DIY build. Still, the thing to look out for is low power motors. I'd pass on anythying less than 2/3 HP. Again, the issue is you'll bog it down.

Honestly, files are a MUCH better starting investment. I know you THINK they'll be slower, but they will also allow you to produce superior results. The thing you can't really grasp now (in advance of doing any grinding) is the methods you'll need to use to get the blade to look anything like what you picture in your mind. With hand tools you can move slowly through the steps and when you see something isn't going the way you expect you can correct your course and keep at it. With belt sanders you can quickly create gouges so deep that correcting them will ruin the blade. And that presupposes you can come up with a way to correct it, which I assure you will be a challenge. For example, how will you hold the billet in order to get a nicely angled plunge line? That tiny platen on the 1x30 doesn't leave much room for angling things. With files, however, you can just shift the position of the blade or change the angle of attack with the file.

Remember, you're also going to need clamps, a vise (or more than one), a drill press, and (if you're starting out right) a variable speed portable band saw with bimetallic blades. The grinder/sander is important, but you need to save money for the other tools or all you'll have is a blade and no way to make/mount handles.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

With all due respect tryppyr, the 1x30 (while I still don't recommend it) can achieve a flat grind. It's pretty crappy, but with a little hand sanding the flat will be be doable. I just did a kiridashi with a bevel only about 1.5", but it was very flat. As another example, I'm working on a wharncliffe right now. I'll post a pic just for reference, but please be aware that I'm far from done. Still, I've seen a few examples of work done on the little grinder that was actually worth posting. My point is that it can work. Especially (I'm guessing) for someone (like myself) that hasn't had exposure to a decent grinder.

Let me be 100% clear. I DON'T recommend the 1x30. Try to get the Craftsman. I know I will asap, but that doesn't mean that no one should try one. I just happened to own one when I got interested. As for hollow grinding with the top idler... Don't even bother trying. As tryppyr pointed out it's useless for that job.

A long way to go, but what you see that isn't flat was all inexperience. I'm still working on figuring a lot of this out.

Edit- this is the dashi primary. Literally less than 5 minutes with sandpaper. Flat right off an 80 grit zirc. Again, a couple of problem areas, but my fault, not the grinders.

 

[tryppyr]

Good results, Strigamort (under the circumstance). You've obviously put some time into adjusting the machine and learning to use it. I'm impressed.

 

[FullyTorque]

The beauty of the 1x30 is that while it is just barely adaquate for grinding bevels, they're dirt cheap and continue to be useful after you upgrade to a bigger grinder.
I got a 2x42 for christmas and it's a huge improvement for grinding bevels. But I still use my little HF 1x30 for profiling, roughing out handles, and convex sharpening. The belts don't last long but I get them cheap on Amazon (with free prime shipping)

If Proteus wants to try a 1x30 to start it won't be a total waste of money, but he will have to step up to a 2x42 or 2x72 if he ever wants to grind large 1/4" thick knives. Doing those with a 1x30 is likely impossible and files would take forever. Of course files are also something you have to have anyway so why not make a couple of small knives with those first. That's what I did.

 

[proteus375]

Not meaning to pound on you, but I started the same way you're starting... headstrong, indifferent to advice, had to learn things my way. The difference is I wasn't on a tight budget. So I can tell you from experience what the downsides are for the lower cost tools.

1x30 has very limited space for you to work. Mostly you'll be doing slack belt grinding because the platen is so small and the contact wheel is non-existant. You could use the top idler wheel as a contact wheel, but the results suck and it is a very dangerour way to work. Slack belt grinding means you'll be cranking out convex grinds no matter how hard you try for full flat. You can TRY using the idler wheel to achieve a hollow grind, but it will be VERY rough going, and utterly uneven. One of the advantages of 1x30 is that you can get more belts for it than you could the 4x36, if you know where to shop (supergrit.com, for example). Some people have successfully modified 1x30 sanders, but let's face it, they still aren't very strong or dependable. With its tiny 1/3HP motor, I guarantee you will bog it down many times for every blade you grind. You'll eventually get the hang of using a lighter touch and it won't seem so bad then.

2x42 is used by a lot of new knifemakers and some crank out reasonably good knives with them. I never used one, mostly because I went straight to a 2x72 DIY build. Still, the thing to look out for is low power motors. I'd pass on anythying less than 2/3 HP. Again, the issue is you'll bog it down.

Honestly, files are a MUCH better starting investment. I know you THINK they'll be slower, but they will also allow you to produce superior results. The thing you can't really grasp now (in advance of doing any grinding) is the methods you'll need to use to get the blade to look anything like what you picture in your mind. With hand tools you can move slowly through the steps and when you see something isn't going the way you expect you can correct your course and keep at it. With belt sanders you can quickly create gouges so deep that correcting them will ruin the blade. And that presupposes you can come up with a way to correct it, which I assure you will be a challenge. For example, how will you hold the billet in order to get a nicely angled plunge line? That tiny platen on the 1x30 doesn't leave much room for angling things. With files, however, you can just shift the position of the blade or change the angle of attack with the file.

Remember, you're also going to need clamps, a vise (or more than one), a drill press, and (if you're starting out right) a variable speed portable band saw with bimetallic blades. The grinder/sander is important, but you need to save money for the other tools or all you'll have is a blade and no way to make/mount handles.

No worries and all advice/critiques are welcome. Its why I posted, and asked for input. As far as files I cant use them, I am a combat disabled vet and after a little bit my shoulder just gives out. Otherwise I would be willing to give it a try. I am gonna try and go for the 2x42 and use that as my primary. What about a 12" disk grinder? I have all the other tools for making and mounting the handles to the blade (scroll saw, dremels, saw-zall, drills, drill press, vises). I will need to purchase some epoxy and will use the slow-set stuff recommended above. I purchased g10 stock and will work on test grinding out different handles (i do have a respirator). Got any recommendations for the pin material for the handles? I dont have a band saw and idk if thats a possibility in the future. Thanks again for the advice.

 

[proteus375]

With all due respect tryppyr, the 1x30 (while I still don't recommend it) can achieve a flat grind. It's pretty crappy, but with a little hand sanding the flat will be be doable. I just did a kiridashi with a bevel only about 1.5", but it was very flat. As another example, I'm working on a wharncliffe right now. I'll post a pic just for reference, but please be aware that I'm far from done. Still, I've seen a few examples of work done on the little grinder that was actually worth posting. My point is that it can work. Especially (I'm guessing) for someone (like myself) that hasn't had exposure to a decent grinder.

Let me be 100% clear. I DON'T recommend the 1x30. Try to get the Craftsman. I know I will asap, but that doesn't mean that no one should try one. I just happened to own one when I got interested. As for hollow grinding with the top idler... Don't even bother trying. As tryppyr pointed out it's useless for that job.

A long way to go, but what you see that isn't flat was all inexperience. I'm still working on figuring a lot of this out.



Edit- this is the dashi primary. Literally less than 5 minutes with sandpaper. Flat right off an 80 grit zirc. Again, a couple of problem areas, but my fault, not the grinders.

I am going to try for the2x42 and will only get the 1x30 if i have no other options. I dont want to try for hollow grinds, not a big fan. I would like either a scandi or convex edge for the knives in the end. I am working on refining the drawings for the knife and will post the drawings when done. It will probably help you understand what I am going for. Your examples are great and as most things I suppose its all a matter of practice. Thanks again for all the advice.

 

[tryppyr]

No worries and all advice/critiques are welcome. Its why I posted, and asked for input. As far as files I cant use them, I am a combat disabled vet and after a little bit my shoulder just gives out. Otherwise I would be willing to give it a try. I am gonna try and go for the 2x42 and use that as my primary. What about a 12" disk grinder? I have all the other tools for making and mounting the handles to the blade (scroll saw, dremels, saw-zall, drills, drill press, vises). I will need to purchase some epoxy and will use the slow-set stuff recommended above. I purchased g10 stock and will work on test grinding out different handles (i do have a respirator). Got any recommendations for the pin material for the handles? I dont have a band saw and idk if thats a possibility in the future. Thanks again for the advice.

Sawz-all is useless. Get a portable variable speed bandsaw with bi-metallic blades. They cut metal, wood and synthetic meterials. I got mine at HF for less than $100, including a 3-pack of Morse blades (with 25% off coupons, of course).

 

[proteus375]

Sawz-all is useless. Get a portable variable speed bandsaw with bi-metallic blades. They cut metal, wood and synthetic materials. I got mine at HF for less than $100, including a 3-pack of Morse blades (with 25% off coupons, of course).

Ill look at getting a bandsaw from HF and try and figure out where it can put it...

 

[chemistguy]

forget 1/4", let's make 1" "knives"!!!!

seriously, 1/4" is waaaay too big for a knife. it basically becomes a freaking axe.
3/16" is probably as thick as you ever want to go. thinner cuts better. physics, bro, physics.

 

[shurik6]

It seems as if the HF 1X30 is like a rite of passage for knife makers. Reading many different forums and just abserving the pictures being posted, it's almost a 50/50 split between 1x30 and a 2x72. Now, being a newbie rooking myslef, I went the cheap route with a HF 1x30. It's not all that terrible if you get to know it on a personal level and figure out all it's quirks and fussiness. I have made only 4 knives so far, all full flat grinds using this sander. While they are far from perfect, I feel like I learned a ton and I know that I will appreciate an upgrade to a 2x42 or a 72 much much more than just starting off using one right away. Just my 2 cents. And here is a picture of my last one I did for reference. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1141810-Completed-my-fourth-knife

 

[mccandmatt]

I picked up a hf 1x30 just as I was starting few months back used it on my first knife and never touched it again. Went to files instead. With files I started with a simple jig made 2 knives then pushed the jig away and never touched it again. Went freehand with files for three knives loved it. Then I bought a craftsman 2x42 made two knives so far and I like it. Now if I'm lucky and stick to my pattern I should have a 2x72 after I make two more knives lol but for $144 new the craftsman is a decent grinder once you make a couple simple and cheap modifications

 

[chemistguy]

why is a 2x72 better than a 2x42?

 

[Bo T]

why is a 2x72 better than a 2x42?

Usually. Most 2X72 have more power. The belts are generally less expensive per surface area for a 2x72. A 2x72 belt will generally last longer. But 2x72s are usually more expensive. Makers who do a lot of grinding will probably recoup the added cost over time

 

[proteus375]

Here is the concept sketches for the larger sized knife I want to build. I know its not simple and I know it will take a lot of work and messed up blades before I get it to be the way I want but if I wanted a simple hunting knife I would just buy one. Hence me trying to make one myself. I would appreciate any criticism on the design itself, functionality, etc. Thanks for the feedback in advance!







Thanks again for all the help.

 

[Bo T]

Consider, for a moment, the legality of a double edged, 12" (blade length), fighting knife in your locality. And whether you want to keep it at home or take it out and use it. But, Ol' Jim Bowie would have been salivating. Develop your skills and make it a reality.

 

[proteus375]

Consider, for a moment, the legality of a double edged, 12" (blade length), fighting knife in your locality. And whether you want to keep it at home or take it out and use it. But, Ol' Jim Bowie would have been salivating. Develop your skills and make it a reality.

Thanks...Its legal and All good where I live, but actually considering making most of the top a false edge not sharp, just in-case I want to baton something with it. Not sure which way i am leaning yet but i will figure it out. Maybe make one of each.

 

[12345678910]

Here is the concept sketches for the larger sized knife I want to build.

I would appreciate any criticism on the design itself, functionality,

Forget anything else I've posted.

Just get a leaf spring and a dremel, you can totally carve that out of a leaf spring.



Some of that looks familiar, is that from a comic book, or video game or something ?

 

[Overmountain]

My advice is to get a big chunk of steel, and pay someone with a 5-axis machine to machine it for you. Then send it out to someone else to HT it...

When faced with the realities of learning the craft, your answer was "if I wanted a hunting knife I'd just go buy a hunting knife." Well, then go pay someone to make that one for you. Just thinking that you can start off with that project shows that you are of limited prior skill in working with these materials. That means that you do, no matter how much it may suck and be slow and humbling, start at square one. Honestly, just the grind lines you have drawn in are a good few years down the road. I'm not trying to be mean, or rude, or any of that. Just realistic about what it is you are trying to accomplish.

The reason you learn to make the hunting knife is so you can eventually learn to make the knife after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that,and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that,and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that,and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that,and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that,and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that,and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that,and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that, and the one after that...

And then maybe that one. There is no shortcut.

And I would guarantee; heck I'd bet my months salary (I work for the gov't so that will get you a cup of coffee... not Starbucks...) that by the time you got the skill set to make that knife, you would no longer have any interest in making it...

But, if you are intent on making that one for yourself, the Count's method is the faster one. No foolin.

 

[Willie71]

Here is the concept sketches for the larger sized knife I want to build. I know its not simple and I know it will take a lot of work and messed up blades before I get it to be the way I want but if I wanted a simple hunting knife I would just buy one. Hence me trying to make one myself. I would appreciate any criticism on the design itself, functionality, etc. Thanks for the feedback in advance!







Thanks again for all the help.

Proteus, I'm relatively new at this and have about $6000.00 invested in machinery, and there is no way in hell I could make this blade!!!!! Time for a reality check. I don't mean to be a dick, but if you can't get yourself to make a small EDC or hunting knife to learn some skills, then you are on your own here.

 

[LX_Emergency]

Hello all,

After a bit of thought I have decided to make my own knives. I have dozens of different knives from cold steel to Busee combat, and still I keep looking for my perfect knife. I decided that the only way I am gonna find the perfect knife is to make my own.

Hahaha. Goods luck with that. Let us know when it worked.