Decided to make my own knife...advice would be welcome

Knives which try to do a lot of things, do none of them well. When they try to look 'kewl' too, they do those even worse.

Ferrari doesn't make a pick-up for a reason.

-Eric
 
tryppyr said:
Rather thank pick apart your reasoning, I think it might help to ask you to think about why you want the things you want.

You want a spear point... but what functional purpose does a spear point serve that you want to leverage? What makes spear point superior for you?

About the "recurve"... are you not concerned that the blade will get hung up when using it? You say it helps to cut better, but it effectively makes 2/3rds of the blade inaccessible in most situations. How does that help cutting?

What purpose is served by putting a glass breaker on a knife that has an ax for a blade already?

Regarding the "retention aid", is there some use to which you want to put the tool that will result in the blade being pulled forward out of your hand? And are you really sure putting that force on your pinky finger is going to help things in that situation? I think it's more likely to injure you than help.

And the thumb ramp... the blade you drew isn't going to be for slicing anyway, so when would the thumb ramp ever get used?

What you seem to have created is a "tour de force" knife, where you arbitrarily mixed together what looks good to you without really considering whether they actually serve a useful purpose. As I said before, I did much the same when I was starting and made some pretty silly looking KSOs (knife shaped objects). It's all good, so long as you aren't pretending they serve a purpose. But when you start up that pretense you set yourself up for arguments about whether/how they can be used (especially in combination with one another).

There's a reason most knives are simple. They work better that way. The more complicated a design is the more specialized and narrow its uses are... even to the point where the number of uses narrows to 1 (display case queen or wall hanger).

It's cool to make KSOs just because you like the way they look. Some people even like to buy stuff like that. I know of one maker who I've seen in this forum that specializes in fantasy knives like what you've drawn. I presume he makes pretty good money selling to folks like you that want them.

- Greg
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The spear point: well I decided that I just dont like a tanto point and i dont think its useful unless you are trying to stab through armor, which it was originally invented. I dont personally like clip point knives. I considered a drop point but I thought the spear point would have more utility. Its how I came to chose a spear point. I know there are many others but these are the more common ones tha I have used and wanted to go with something I have previously used and liked.

The recurve: In my experience I have always had better performance chopping, and cutting things in general with a recurve blade. It may just be a personal bias but its the style I prefer. I think they also look nicer then a straight blade IMHO. I am sure there are both reasons for and against it, just my preference I suppose.

The glass breaker: I just dont like breaking glass with the blade or tip, Can you do it sure, but why take the chance at chipping or dulling your blade? Is it really necessary on the larger knife, no but I wanted to keep a similar style across all 3 blades.

The "retention aid": The little half hoop thingy, I am kinda up in the air about this. if chopping i thought it would be useful in being able to choke down on the handle to further increase chopping power. On the second one its mainly to keep the same style element throughout the designs but i didnt think it would hurt to keep it on there. I dont see it as something that would interfere with normal use and could have a possible use.

The thumb ramp: On the larger of the knives is it necessary, not really but on the smaller knives i think it really aids in control especially when you choke up on the knife. Its a feature I really like on my knives and wanted to keep it. On the larger one its once again to keep the same style elements throughout.

I realise I added things to this that arent necessary for every use but i dont think that they would really hamper the functioning of the knife or my ability to use it.

Hope that helps on my reasoning. I am more then willing to alter the designs if you can offer a different option or opinion on why something should or shouldnt be a certain way...
 
It's not really my place to tell you what design is right for you. I'm just trying to help you think through the combination of features you selected and decide whether they really belong together. Personally, I think you're trying to make a tool that tries to do too many things, and ends up not being able to do any of them well. I have a couple of tools like that in my tool drawer. They hardly ever leave the tool drawer. A Leatherman tool is a good example. It has a lot of options, but none work anywhere near as well as the dedicated tool. Is it cool to be able to carry one tool to do it all? In theory, yes. In practice, not so much.

Anyway, just food for thought. Like I said, you should go ahead and try to make it then use it, since you still seem to think it will be useful. If you still feel it is the jack-of-all-trades after using it a few times, pat yourself on the back. Otherwise, take what you learn and put it into the next knife.
 
LucyCustomKnives said:
Knives which try to do a lot of things, do none of them well. When they try to look 'kewl' too, they do those even worse.

Ferrari doesn't make a pick-up for a reason.

-Eric
Click to expand...

You are correct. I cant say that any other knife fillets as well as a fillet knife but I dont want a chefs knife, or a fillet knife or a knife that just does one thing. I would rather have a knife that just does most things reasonably well. I dont want to carry 15 knives on me either. So with that compromise what features would you change on the knives? Please dont say all, lol. Thank you for your feedback and input on the matter.
 
tryppyr said:
It's not really my place to tell you what design is right for you. I'm just trying to help you think through the combination of features you selected and decide whether they really belong together. Personally, I think you're trying to make a tool that tries to do too many things, and ends up not being able to do any of them well. I have a couple of tools like that in my tool drawer. They hardly ever leave the tool drawer. A Leatherman tool is a good example. It has a lot of options, but none work anywhere near as well as the dedicated tool. Is it cool to be able to carry one tool to do it all? In theory, yes. In practice, not so much.

Anyway, just food for thought. Like I said, you should go ahead and try to make it then use it, since you still seem to think it will be useful. If you still feel it is the jack-of-all-trades after using it a few times, pat yourself on the back. Otherwise, take what you learn and put it into the next knife.
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While deployed I used my leatherman countless times and it has literally been a lifesaver. Is it the best tool for any one specific job, maybe not but it does a lot of things reasonably well to make it worth buying and using. That said I really do appreciate the input that you have given and appreciate the you talking through all these different aspects with me. If there is anything glaring you think I am over looking please feel free to just say so. I am not gonna get upset.

Is there anything about the 3 knife designs that you think if ok?
 
But the honest answer is all. Call a duck a duck. Those are FANTASY KNIVES. They will only ever do one thing even moderately well and that is look a certain way.

Y'all have at this one on your own. I should followed the count out.

Earplugs out man.
 
LucyCustomKnives said:
But the honest answer is all. Call a duck a duck. Those are FANTASY KNIVES. They will only ever do one thing even moderately well and that is look a certain way.

Y'all have at this one on your own. I should followed the count out.

Earplugs out man.
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What i meant by dont say all I was hoping for something specific so that I could try and change that on my design. But I appreciate you taking the time and all your advice. Please feel free to continue to comment anytime. Thanks!
 
Ok. Simple. Do this...

Scrap those for any type of real use and leave them as fantasy knives. They can just sit on a shelf and not even be blade steel. Mild steel is fine.

Then, go find a tried and true bushcraft design, that is what you are describing. Copy that. Closely. Someone with far more experience using knives than you designed those. Dont add weird grinds, bumps, spikes, horns or divots. Make that and it will do basically what you are describing.

Period.
 
And I don't mean that gawdawful Tom Brown piece of crap. Thats a movie knife and is fantasy too. Copy an ESEE, Becker BK series, etc.
 
You're actually taking to sometimes harsh criticism (which I rather agree with, but am less vocal about) fairly well, and your designs are improving. I've commented in that other place you've posted, but wanted to say a couple of things here.

I'd give the butts of the handles more swell. Think of fawn's foot ax handles, or traditional khukuri handles. That swell makes for a swell mechanical lock in your hand, without causing bruising and swelling if things get whumperjawed while chopping.

The humps on the spines (I'm presuming those are areas to whack with a baton while batoning) are very pronounced on the medium and small. I'd reduce or eliminate them. It's not a bad thought, but I haven't had trouble with the baton going anywhere when splitting wood with that method. Of course, without grind lines drawn in (I advocate full flat bevels), I don't know if you're still going with a double-edged version or not. If so, a designated batoning area might make sense. But aesthetically, I would like those two smaller knives better if you had a long, gentle arc going from the point to meet the spine back of where you currently have the humps. It'd be like a cross between a straight-up spear point and a drop point, making a very useful and strong tip in my experience. Kind of like the Kiku and the bottom two Bussekin have.

Watch those talon holes. They're jealously guarded. :D
 
friendly advice , loose the spit ugly hump on the spine it will make your sheet look fat ;-)

K.I.S.S.
something is stumbled on in my trying making knifes, wanted to fancy, building my dream knife,
learning time is needed at the grinder before you have the skills to make a hollow recurved with nightmare tip grind.
for me the next knifes i will make will be bush crafter style or some more simple kitchen knifes, just to learn from my mistakes and limitations of tools i have

don't make your first knifes to hard or difficult, trying to make it perfect will frustrate you,
remember no knife is perfect, but it take a long time learning to reach a level to find the minor imperfections in a blade, if you ever visit a knife show have a good look at knifes and be critical ( please leave the makers in there honor ) and learn from the mistakes you see, you will find it amazing to see how many bevels are off, blades little warped, riccasso's don't line up, grinds lines un-even , handles not symmetrical , thumb grooves not squire on the spine.

but kuuddo for wanted trying

you could how ever be the next Walter Brend :-)
 
Meant to add that the profiles along the edge on your two small MkII versions strike me as much more useful than the ones on the MkIIIs, but the edge on the large MkIII would be better than that on the MkII. In my opinion. :)
 
I have spent half my shift thinking about you. Honestly. There are co-workers who get less thought...
Simply put, your knives are way too clean. If they were dirtier, I doubt we would be having this conversation.

Look, I admire your heart, I truly do. I love that passion, and I want you to make a worthwhile effort at this because I think if that heart is directed in the right direction, you will eventually make some really interesting knives. You certainly aren't afraid to take design risks or criticism.

The problem is this. You have taken some minor design elements of the knives you own and amplified them. In doing so, you have trampled on the useful lines of those knives. And it is frankly that the knives you have are underused. You have to spend hours with a knife in your hands to know how it excels and how it falls short. Once those knives are used up; literally beaten black and blue, you will know what you want out of a custom knife. And you will know why ONLY a custom knife can give that to you. Otherwise, what you are creating is a fantasy piece. Plain and simple and in every meaning of the word.

The knives you have are some great examples of the genre. But they aren't the knives I would choose to take with me into the woods, or on the beat. And I could throw you 10,000 words to tell you why that is. But you need to learn that for yourself. I will admit I am making some assumptions about your experience, but the appearance of your knives and your statement above about not wanting to take your $1200 investment into the woods sums it up for me. I wouldn't want to take anything LESS if that is what I could afford... I wouldn't think of dropping you in the middle of the Rockies without some baby steps... The same is true with the knife making...
 
Check out Becker's BK1, BK10, and BK16. That's what your last design set reminds me of. Becker's are also relatively cheap (you could get that set of three for about $250, if you can find a Bk1 for sale) so you can beat on them all day without feeling bad. Excellent performance for price too.

What specific gripes about the Busse's do you have? Sometimes there's more than one way to fix a problem.
 
So first off let me say thank you to all the people who have lent there thoughts and advice. Its why I posted. If i didnt I could have just thrown up my first idea and said this is what I am making so you now must all love it or get out. But that wouldnt have helped me at all. As long as things stay sorta civil go ahead and rip into the designs its the only way I will learn. Got a good piece of advice some time ago if you wanna learn how to do things ask a person who has done it a 1000 times or be prepared to fail 1001. So like I said have at it. I would buy you guys a beer (or drink of choice) if I could. I really appreciate the help.

As far as my knives looking pristine I have a bunch that have been beaten black and blue and broken I just tend not to take to many pics of them. I also try to keep my knives in as perfect a condition as I can. After I go and use them I sharpen and buff them to be ready for the next time. I am kinda retentive that way. Same thing with firearms after using them I have to strip them down and clean them. Cant stand to just leave them used and abused.

With all that said here is version 4 with some of the suggested changes.





 
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