Design feedback on a general purpose bush-craft. WIP. Done with pics

i think your over thinking it a tad with all your cba's and c3p's and cbb249's, what i mean is you cant tell how its going to feel until its in hand
 
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I read you knifemaking01. I know this might seem superficial. There is more to the process than meets the eye. Unfortunately i cant flesh out my design philosophy due to the language barrier.

Well I will give it a try. The basic handle design and cross section of the knife handle is very similar to the bush craft knife knife I've been using fore the last two years. In designing that handle i used various types of art clay and went through half a dozen of redesigns. I oversize the blank on this one to be able to make final adjustments when fitting the scales.

That being said i might fail horribly but on the other hand i might get it right. In that case I´m going to be happy i like the looks of it and that i put the extra effort in early in the process. I hope I don´t come a cross ignorant.

Peace
 
Final drawing. I will attempt to make a wood dummy of this knife to night.

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It´s on.

[video=youtube;G43Dw0ETW_M]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G43Dw0ETW_M&feature=youtu.be[/video]
 
What kind of file are you using? To me it seems as if you're not going to get the performance out of that file that you should (depending on the type, I guess) as you're using it like it's sandpaper. The files I've used generally only seem to "cut" when they're moving forward or draw-filed. Cleaning out the file with a file brush/card should help too.

How did you calculate your angle?
 
The file has a Öberg cut and is different from the regular file. I will post a picture of it. A brush and chalk will probobly help thou. Tanks for reminding me.

This is the best calculator I have found so far.

http://www.mathworksheetsgo.com/trigonometry-calculators/right-triangle-calculator-online.php

The angle A needs to be half of what you are trying to obtain on the blade. I´m going whit 20 degrees so I entered A=10. The visualization lets you know if it seems right.
 
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Just fund a place who does vacuum cryo hardening so i can almost put an edge on it before hardening. With means more stock to remove so I´m going to use a huge coarse file as well.
 
Thanks for the info - how far back are you going to take the bevel? To that scribed line?
 
About 10mm i total with is about 2mm past the line. I remove about 2mm at a time to make sure everything is in line. Between the runs I also make sun-feather patterns whit the file sitting still at the rest to make sure everything is in a plane.
 
I´m liking this knife more and more. It just feels right. About 5 hours of work left on the blade before HT.

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I wanted to up the speed filing and went freehand to remove some stock.

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Everything feels dandy butt some precision is getting lost.

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I think free-handing will save me time but i thin its important to bring the absolute shape back.

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The Öberg cut given the right handling can get a almost finished surface. I don't fully master it full yet.

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The only part that will take some ingenuity is the bevel over the choil. I want it to be perfect as far in to the process as far as possible. In switching to sandpaper I know i can make it look right. But i want it to be coverd by long even file strokes both sides and now its more shorter adjusting strokes.

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I'm seeing a potential problem.

When you showed us your wood cut-out one image showed you using the very shallow choil as a grip point. Now I see you've cut the bevel past the choil and into the handle space. That strikes me as incredibly dangerous.

You can correct that by making the choil deeper, effectively removing all the beveling in and behind it.
 
:) I have two design threads running at the same time here and safety is the main topic in the other on as well. I have made knives like this before (pic) and I hope its going to be ok. Still I hear you and respect your opinion. :)

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Whit some modifications a guard could be fit to this design. I have elongated the handle and moved the rivet.

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The problem I see is that your grinding has gone into the area that guard sits, or at least darn close, much further and you'll create a gap between the scales or guard and the steel.
 
Yes. The guarded knife is only a drawing so far. But if I wanted to fit a guard to a blank I have a tiny problem at the back of the choil. Thanks for spotting that.
 
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