Design feedback on a general purpose bush-craft. WIP. Done with pics

remyrw beat me to it, uve already filed in where th guard is going to be or sit so its going to leave a gap, im curious as to my you cut the bevel into the cutout where your finger is going to be, one good stabbing or hitting motion and you slip even a tad is going to end up in alot of stitches, and blood and pain.
 
Thanks for the feedback. The sketch of the knife whit a guard is v2.0. The knife in this thread will be guardless. The choil is 2,5mm at the top of the arc (blade is 3,5mm). I think it looks a bit more rad than it is. I have made blades like this before and its ok. Busse, Eese, Randall and many more respected makers has the edge meet the choil its just less obvious on a full flat grind.

I under stand that the following might come across as a bit defensive but it´s just a clarification of my thoughts right or wrong. The reason why i made it like this is because i don't want a corner in or just before the choil. Choking up like that gives me the leverage and control that is key in safe knife usage imo. But the traditions of handling knives obviously varies quite a bit. My grandfather was a lifetime woodsman and logger an he chocked up on his knife so far that the handle was the only visual part and he would correct me in some less modern way me if he saw me using force carving holding a knife like a hammer. :)
 
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Squaring of the blank.

[video=youtube;tZ0kUrFOXP4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZ0kUrFOXP4&feature=youtu.be[/video]
 
Ready for HT

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I'm going to send of a bunch of different finishes to HT to see witch turns out the best.
 
Blades are back from HT. It looks very good indeed. I thought the blades were absolutly clean when i sent them put some stains have developed during HT. No biggy.

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Cleaning up
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I think I am going to put a flat zero scandigrind on this knife an therefor I work on it whit stones.

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I prefer to build bushcraft style knives and have been enjoying your post. Loving your enthusiasm too!
 
Thanks! It took 6 hour whit the stones to go from rough HT edge to mirror polish scandigrind. 40 - 60 - 120 - 400 - 800 - 8000 (i have my doubts about this number on the package of the stone) tormek paste.

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Shaves whit ease and has no micro bevel. :)
 
Thanks! Now what wood should i choose for the handle. The spacer will bee carbon black and light creme white. Mystery walnut, pockenholtz, or birch root.

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Its time to bite the sour apple.

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The scales forms a circle whit the origin in a point which is not marked in the drawing. :p

From measurements in the drawing i can find that the radius is about 48mm. Now i need to locate this virtual origin. Transfer it th the scales and draw the circle. And everything should fit.

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The point is marked whit white paint an then the scales are pressed on so the the paint stains the scales.

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Gaaaaah! This is slow work. The stainless corby rivets and birch is really tricky combination. Brass and ebenholtz kind of come of at the same pace, stainless and birch don't.

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Use a sandpaper backer It will help out quite a bit. I get my handles close then file down the corby's high spots. Then go to hard rubber backed paper(a hard rubber "stick" with paper over it) :)
 
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