designing our own pattern?

i realize i cant explain, or draw it out very good, but, western pattern, asymetric, about 13" long and between 4 and 5 pounds. phantom bevels would be optional because they add cost. i'll cut one out of cardboard or something to give an idea of shape
 
At the risk of introducing too much process, may I suggest we have a poll for what type of tool we'd like to committee-design? Or maybe we could vote on several patterns, and have a discussion thread for each? Maybe none get made, maybe all? Maybe one a year?

re: re-forging
The idea here is not to make one head to solve one problem, but to design a pattern that many of us can buy with consistent results. Also, not ruining good vintage stuff.

Yea or nay? (metapoll)
 
daizee said:
At the risk of introducing too much process, may I suggest we have a poll for what type of tool we'd like to committee-design? Or maybe we could vote on several patterns, and have a discussion thread for each? Maybe none get made, maybe all? Maybe one a year?

re: re-forging
The idea here is not to make one head to solve one problem, but to design a pattern that many of us can buy with consistent results. Also, not ruining good vintage stuff.

Yea or nay? (metapoll)
Click to expand...

I am for the poll. And separate threads. Are you thinking double, single and hatchet size? As choices.
 
Woodcraft said:
I am for the poll. And separate threads. Are you thinking double, single and hatchet size? As choices.
Click to expand...

Exactly so, but would entertain other options if anyone wants to chime in this evening.
 
well, a poll is a great idea. what other option did you have in mind daizee? obviously i'm biased to double bit though
 
The only way to have a short run of axes manufactured would be having a custom smith forge them or machining them from a solid billet, both of which would be fairly expensive options. Production forging and even casting require expensive tooling that would be cost prohibitive for such a small project.
 

2lb head with a hardened hammer poll
With a 24" curved fawns foot haft.
It would mostly be used as an axe, but you could easily choke up on it to hammer something if you have to hammer a tent stake or something.
I took my Inspiration from vintage underhill style half hatchets but changed the lugs / ears , straightened out the beard, removed the nail notch, and left an un milled hammer face.
 
Hickory n steel said:

2lb head with a hardened hammer poll
With a 24" curved fawns foot haft.
It would mostly be used as an axe, but you could easily choke up on it to hammer something if you have to hammer a tent stake or something.
I took my Inspiration from vintage underhill style half hatchets but changed the lugs / ears , straightened out the beard, removed the nail notch, and left an un milled hammer face.
Click to expand...

2 and a half on a 28" and I like it;)
 
Woodcraft said:
2 and a half on a 28" and I like it;)
Click to expand...

Works for me 👍
Another thought I had which could actually happen is a 28oz ( 1-3/4 ) riggers axe on a 20" curved haft. This is something Vaughan could easily do as they already contract tools and have their own handle plant, the handle being the only change to a tool they already make.
 
I think If I were to "design" a Felling ax I would start with something like the plumb Tasmanian pattern and tweak from there. 34" handle.

If I was going to create a smaller ax I would try to get the weight around 3lbs instead of 2.5 and stretch the handle to 30" instead of 28". And I would pattern the head like a Rockaway with phantom bevels.
 
I'd look for a 2-3/4 to 3 pound single bit with a hardened waffle poll, a full size eye and a handle in the 32"-34" range. Light for packing on trail work projects. Long enough to use as an underbuck. Poll for driving wedges. Bonus points if it's hung with a removable wedging system for easier packing.
 
Slip fit eye, but shown on a wedge-fit handle.

17492796_10212262110136360_46693037457491703_o.jpg


Note: the front of the handle's neck should be positioned just a smidgen forward for correct placement, but it's just a rough mockup. The shape of the knob and other fine details would need a little tweaking to get just right.
 
I like that in general but I think the ridge is a bit too pronounced and will lead to sticking. Feather out the ridge and you'd have something.
 
I love this whole idea in theory, but like was said earlier, this couldn't be done for a price that most people would be able to get in on. I say it would be $200 minimum and likely higher. I'd want one but I'd never be a buyer.
 
Square_peg said:
I like that in general but I think the ridge is a bit too pronounced and will lead to sticking. Feather out the ridge and you'd have something.
Click to expand...

It's a matter of how strong the hollowing would be. Bringing it to a hard line shows the ridge clearly, but in practice it wouldn't be so sharp and would transition into the thin cheeks gradually enough to keep it from biting in, but the majority of the hollowed regions would be nice and thin, and would have to be to keep that broad and deep of a bit without turning into an anchor. :D
 
jblyttle said:
I love this whole idea in theory, but like was said earlier, this couldn't be done for a price that most people would be able to get in on. I say it would be $200 minimum and likely higher. I'd want one but I'd never be a buyer.
Click to expand...

If that. To make it feasible for a short run you're talking custom one-off prices so you might as well design your own personal axe and just get that done up.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
If that. To make it feasible for a short run you're talking custom one-off prices so you might as well design your own personal axe and just get that done up.
Click to expand...

Honestly, people may be better off spending $300-500 on some blacksmith courses and practicing. Then they can make whatever they want for themselves and have a skill.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
Slip fit eye, but shown on a wedge-fit handle.

17492796_10212262110136360_46693037457491703_o.jpg


Note: the front of the handle's neck should be positioned just a smidgen forward for correct placement, but it's just a rough mockup. The shape of the knob and other fine details would need a little tweaking to get just right.
Click to expand...

Straighten out the beard then add lugs and you've almost got a coleclesser with phantom bevels.
Personally the only change I'd make is a straight beard angle.
 
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