Destroyed a new Strider and my thumb..

[dkb45]

I was thinking that was a factory mangled edge. It looks like somebody tried sharpening it with a dremel, and they set the dremel down, still running, mid job and the damage is from it skipping around wildly.

 

[MOhunter92]

Wow man that knife is messed up.

This is 100% a factory grind problem. Send it in for a replacement.

I'm really thinking it is due to the factory grind as well.. It just doesn't make sense because I have two other beautiful edges on my SMFs and this edge is just crazy.

 

[MOhunter92]

I was thinking that was a factory mangled edge. It looks like somebody tried sharpening it with a dremel, and they set the dremel down, still running, mid job and the damage is from it skipping around wildly.

I know!! Hahah I'm so upset with it. This is from a wicked edge too this was not free hand or anything and it does look like it was sharpened with a dremel! I hope strider will take care of me on this one cause this knife absolutely will not straighten out.

 

[MOhunter92]

Well I finished it up for shits and grins. You will notice the completely uneven tanto grind from the factory, also the small section of blade that would absolutely not sharpen even though I sat on it with 100 grits for 2 hours.

I think it's because the grinds are not straight. It just doesn't make sense. So I'm gonna carry it this weekend then shoot Josh an email and see if he thinks I should send it In or if it's a waste of time.

I am absolutely sure now it was not me that did this, it's definitely the knife.

 

[MOhunter92]

And my thumb.... Haha healed up nice. Definitely not stitch worthy but it bled for a solid hour pretty bad. It was close

 

[MOhunter92]

Here's a nice SMF I did before this DB disaster

 

[MOhunter92]

And another

 

[cbwx34]

Can't really tell what's going on near the heel of the blade, but it's pretty clear from the front portion that the blade grind is off, so probably the same near the heel.

Guided sharpeners often reveal how imprecise some knives are actually ground.

 

[bravodelta]

Are you sure the cross bar the arms mount on is tight ?

The W/E should correct it.

Something is moving/loose on your W/E.

I second this!! Something to has to be loose.

 

[MOhunter92]

Can't really tell what's going on near the heel of the blade, but it's pretty clear from the front portion that the blade grind is off, so probably the same near the heel.

Guided sharpeners often reveal how imprecise some knives are actually ground.

I have no clue it just wouldn't even out even after hours. Yes it made this one pretty obvious!

 

[MOhunter92]

I second this!! Something to has to be loose.

Nope. Nothing is lose and I have two knives pictured to show that. I did the tanto right before this one and I'm not dumb, I tighten everything down and check frequently to make sure it stays tight.

 

[BluntCut MetalWorks]

After seeing before & after pic. My guess...

You probably started your stroke from heel toward the tip to avoid scratch up thumbstud/bolster/handle, so you pretty much double grinded right about 1 stone width away from the starting spot/heel. In addition, you probably did put less pressure on the stone edge facing the heel. While on the tanto edge you double grinded with one-hand and unwanted twist edge-length convex by the other.

 

[MOhunter92]

After seeing before & after pic. My guess...

You probably started your stroke from heel toward the tip to avoid scratch up thumbstud/bolster/handle, so you pretty much double grinded right about 1 stone width away from the starting spot/heel. In addition, you probably did put less pressure on the stone edge facing the heel. While on the tanto edge you double grinded with one-hand and unwanted twist edge-length convex by the other.

I don't understand your point, this couldn't have been my mistake because nothing about how the metal grinded away makes any sense

 

[bigmark408]

After seeing before & after pic. My guess...

You probably started your stroke from heel toward the tip to avoid scratch up thumbstud/bolster/handle, so you pretty much double grinded right about 1 stone width away from the starting spot/heel. In addition, you probably did put less pressure on the stone edge facing the heel. While on the tanto edge you double grinded with one-hand and unwanted twist edge-length convex by the other.

It's a fixed blade.

 

[Squashfan]

Have you used sharpie to see exactly where the stone is hitting the bevel? I would be curious to see that.

 

[bigmark408]

Well I finished it up for shits and grins. You will notice the completely uneven tanto grind from the factory, also the small section of blade that would absolutely not sharpen even though I sat on it with 100 grits for 2 hours.

I think it's because the grinds are not straight. It just doesn't make sense. So I'm gonna carry it this weekend then shoot Josh an email and see if he thinks I should send it In or if it's a waste of time.

I am absolutely sure now it was not me that did this, it's definitely the knife. View attachment 440572View attachment 440573View attachment 440574View attachment 440575View attachment 440576

Regardless, it can be fixed.

 

[MOhunter92]

Have you used sharpie to see exactly where the stone is hitting the bevel? I would be curious to see that.

I always use sharpie while getting the burr to form before I start moving up in stones. No pics of that though

 

[BluntCut MetalWorks]

Let's envision an exaggeration of sharpening strokes.

1. take 10 perfectly vertical stroke at the heel, says that abraded away 1" wide(stone width) and 10 microns deep of the bevel.

2. take another 10 strokes 0.6" from heel (thus 0.4" overlap).
a. if you keep the same pressure & stone square up, the affective abrade pressure for 0.6" will be higher because of less contact surface. So after 10 strokes, you might be abraded away 12 microns. So should you go back a do another 2 stroke for the heel to make it 12 microns total?

b. even if you manage to adapt the pressure so that it only abrade exactly 1micron per stroke. Stone wobbling will cut the 0.4" overlapped - hence over grinded.

Whenever doing an extended grind with a narrow abrasive stone/belt, banding will lead to excessive grind on the boundary if not compensate or traverse at least 2x the stone width along the edge (heel to point or point to heel).

I don't think, the factory grind was bad because, the before pic shown the bevel shoulder line is quite straight. Can't have that unless the grind is quite even and the blade is straight.

I don't understand your point, this couldn't have been my mistake because nothing about how the metal grinded away makes any sense

 

[MOhunter92]

Let's envision an exaggeration of sharpening strokes.

1. take 10 perfectly vertical stroke at the heel, says that abraded away 1" wide(stone width) and 10 microns deep of the bevel.

2. take another 10 strokes 0.6" from heel (thus 0.4" overlap).
a. if you keep the same pressure & stone square up, the affective abrade pressure for 0.6" will be higher because of less contact surface. So after 10 strokes, you might be abraded away 12 microns. So should you go back a do another 2 stroke for the heel to make it 12 microns total?

b. even if you manage to adapt the pressure so that it only abrade exactly 1micron per stroke. Stone wobbling will cut the 0.4" overlapped - hence over grinded.

Whenever doing an extended grind with a narrow abrasive stone/belt, banding will lead to excessive grind on the boundary if not compensate or traverse at least 2x the stone width along the edge (heel to point or point to heel).

I don't think, the factory grind was bad because, the before pic shown the bevel shoulder line is quite straight. Can't have that unless the grind is quite even and the blade is straight.

It was grinding uneven like that the second I began sharpening, it was straight in the clamp everything was level and good to go. It's the knife, I did 2 knives before that one and they are perfect.

 

[BluntCut MetalWorks]

Then obviously it's my mis-diagnosed :foot:

It was grinding uneven like that the second I began sharpening, it was straight in the clamp everything was level and good to go. It's the knife, I did 2 knives before that one and they are perfect.