devirginized

I will say, this is about the most dull blade I've seen on a knife.
Suppose to be this dull? I'd compare it to an axe.

I don't need it slice paper, although my custom gobi in 01 slices paper easily and still doesn't roll or chip on oak. If I bring the infi steel to a thin edge, will this be an issue?

I keep hearing that, and I have to say that this, plus no sheath, will not get me to buy one of those anytime soon...

The same complaint occasionally comes up with Randalls, but there is a big difference (except for the tip of their 18 style blades, which is often grossly thick): On Randall's biggest stainless blade, the Model 12, the edge shoulders come in at 0.020", or barely 0.5 mm: Even if you don't like the dull edge, there's very little work to do to bring up the sharpness down to 10° per side (which is plenty strong enough for chopping Maple)...

In my experience, edge thinness is everything if you want wood chopping performance... A heavy blade is for hand confort on impact, but it actually doesn't do all that much for chopping performance...: This is why many lighter shorter knives will pummel big blades in chopping if their edges are thinner...

Here, how thick is the base of the factory edge bevel on this Busse? Even if you close down the edge angle, you still end up "climbing" the edge base into thicker steel... What I've seen is that on Youtube there are a few videos showing the 17 ounces San Mai III Trailmaster out-chopping a 28 ounces Busse... And the convex edge of the Trailmaster is not that thin or that great in performance... My 17 ounce 9.5" Trailmaster is easily matched by my 10-11 ounces 7.75" Al Mar "Special Warfare" while chopping in Maple... And I have the pics to prove it...

Gaston
 
Yeah Its strange such pricey knives come with no sheath, and I think that plastic fish net it came in, is scratching the nice satin finish.

Maybe these aren't suppose to be super sharp. My kukri is in my standard, very dull, but much sharper than the Busse in unused condition. It blows away any knife I've used on wood.
I'm hoping that once I sharpen the nmfbm (the yellow one will be kept mint, buying another one for actual use) it will out chop the kukri.
I'd be impressed if it did, the kukri is a near perfect chopper IMO.
 
I keep hearing that, and I have to say that this, plus no sheath, will not get me to buy one of those anytime soon...

The same complaint occasionally comes up with Randalls, but there is a big difference (except for the tip of their 18 style blades, which is often grossly thick): On Randall's biggest stainless blade, the Model 12, the edge shoulders come in at 0.020", or barely 0.5 mm: Even if you don't like the dull edge, there's very little work to do to bring up the sharpness down to 10° per side (which is plenty strong enough for chopping Maple)...

In my experience, edge thinness is everything if you want wood chopping performance... A heavy blade is for hand confort on impact, but it actually doesn't do all that much for chopping performance...: This is why many lighter shorter knives will pummel big blades in chopping if their edges are thinner...

Here, how thick is the base of the factory edge bevel on this Busse? Even if you close down the edge angle, you still end up "climbing" the edge base into thicker steel... What I've seen is that on Youtube there are a few videos showing the 17 ounces San Mai III Trailmaster out-chopping a 28 ounces Busse... And the convex edge of the Trailmaster is not that thin or that great in performance... My 17 ounce 9.5" Trailmaster is easily matched by my 10-11 ounces 7.75" Al Mar "Special Warfare" while chopping in Maple... And I have the pics to prove it...

Gaston


Ok so you aren't a fan... I'm not sure we all feel the same given most of us can't get enough infi. If you are looking for reasons to not buy or not gift them your business just stick with your basic knives. If you have never held one then you don't know, despite what YouTube told you(another rant for later). The reason they don't give a sheath is to keep the price down and there are a number of sheath makers out there and so now we have the choice of who we want to make it. I'm sorry to seem harsh but the tone of your post struck a nerve.
 
I wasn't a fan of busse til I got one in my hands, same with CRK or any of my knives.

Just the way it is.


I'm glad busse doesn't make kydex sheaths, can't stand kydex.
 
Ok so you aren't a fan... I'm not sure we all feel the same given most of us can't get enough infi. If you are looking for reasons to not buy or not gift them your business just stick with your basic knives. If you have never held one then you don't know, despite what YouTube told you(another rant for later). The reason they don't give a sheath is to keep the price down and there are a number of sheath makers out there and so now we have the choice of who we want to make it. I'm sorry to seem harsh but the tone of your post struck a nerve.

I know there is a huge variety of them, and I know there probably is a variety of edge thicknesses, but here is the problem: When discussing Busse performance, all I hear about is INFI, INFI, INFI... But INFI doesn't have anything to do with initial performance... If you want to know what the real chopping performance is like, edge thinness is everything... And yet primary bevel thickness is the one figure I hardly ever hear about with Busse (or anyone else for that matter), and it really is the only figure that matters, particularly for chopping... Since it only takes a cheap caliper, you'll forgive me for getting a little impatient... (In the Noss destruction test, the Basic 9 seemed to be at least decently sharp... If I knew the bevel thickness, then I would actually know its true potential...)

I'm really interested in chopping knives, but if you don't know enough to even discuss the right parameters, just how serious can you be about real chopping performance? Now I hear that getting a new Busse is like getting an axe's edge... Well a knife isn't going to win anything by imitating an axe...

Gaston
 
Gaston, as the previous owner, I can guarantee you that NMFBM has a factory convex edge much thinner than the normal V-edges so I don't see what you're going on about. ;) Not arguing with you, just not seeing where it was relevant in the first place?

Jino's legitimate complaint was sharpness, not geometry which was accurate and I explained why. Out of over a hundred Bussekin knives that have come straight from the shop to me or the previous owner, almost all been shaving sharp but the ones from shows usually just under. Jino's knife came from Blade 2012, not straight from the shop. I suspect that teeny reduction in sharpness may be for safety of both employees and customers who will handle them multiple times as I can't tell you how many people I see run their finger down an edge to check for sharpness when they pick up a knife. :confused: If every one of them were scary sharp things would get messy down right quick. :eek:

Getting back on track, Jino, congratulations on that beauty and I look forward to seeing what your next one is for a user! :D
 
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Gaston, as the previous owner, I can guarantee you that NMFBM has a factory convex edge much thinner than the normal V-edges so I don't see what you're going on about. ;) Not arguing with you, just not seeing where it was relevant in the first place?

Jino's legitimate complaint was sharpness, not geometry which was accurate and I explained why. Out of over a hundred Bussekin knives that have come straight from the shop to me or the previous owner, almost all been shaving sharp but the ones from shows usually just under. Jino's knife came from Blade 2012, not straight from the shop. I suspect that teeny reduction in sharpness may be for safety of both employees and customers who will handle them multiple times as I can't tell you how many people I see run their finger down an edge to check for sharpness when they pick up a knife. :confused: If every one of them were scary sharp things would get messy down right quick. :eek:

Getting back on track, Jino, congratulations on that beauty and I look forward to seeing what your next one is for a user! :D

I have two Busses from shows and they were noticeably duller than anything sent to me from Busse combat itself. You can't have your customer base slicing themselves open at your counter during a show.

GASTON,
I just don't understand bragging about how you will never buy from a company on their personal forum. It lacks tack like nothing else. If you would like to purchase and test one then display your findings then that's all fair game, but complaining about that which you don't personally know leaves you appearing ignorant. It also seems like you are complaining that a new knife can't out chop a knife you have modified to chop(believing YouTube opinions is dangerous at best) Fix them both equally then make your claims. I'll buy whatever infi you don't fall in love with(through actual experience).

You always hear INFI this and INFI that, because the actual users housed in this forum have tried many other knives and we are all still here, in love, and broke; but happy as hell.

I apologize to the OP for veering of course but I get very sensitive to blanketed statements I know to be false. You have a great blade that probably just needs a good stropping to pop some hairs. Good luck
 
Gaston, as the previous owner, I can guarantee you that NMFBM has a factory convex edge much thinner than the normal V-edges so I don't see what you're going on about. ;) Not arguing with you, just not seeing where it was relevant in the first place?

I still don't see any thickness figures in what you say... From what I gathered from another Mistress owner, it is in the 1 mm to 1.2 mm range (0.040-0.050") , or about in the ballpark of what can be measured on a San Mai Trailmaster, depending on how far from the edge you measure... This is hardly something that a Randall Model 12, even at 15° per side, will not eat for dinner and spit out the bones at its own 0.020", to say nothing that the Randall has the additional advantage of being a V-edge on top of a deep hollow grind... And my guess is it would eat even more at 10° per side...

The very fact you tout a convex edge as something inherently superior just shows how out of it this is... At the same thickness, a V-edge will always be thinner and sharper: It's basic geometry... Convexing adds material near the edge, not the other way around... And it opens the final edge angle... Hardly promising stuff... Fortunately for you, there has to be V-edged Busse knives, or there would be no hope at all...

I've tested chopping on maple with a razor-sharp brand new convexed edge San Mai III Trailmaster, at 9.5" and 17 ounces, and it gets evenly matched, or beaten, by a 10 ounces Al Mar "Special Warfare" that is slimmer, pointier, thinner and nearly two inches shorter, with a 0.020" edge at around 10° per side -plenty strong enough, but I guess Busse owners would scoff at this-... That's how much of a disadvantage a convex grind is on wood compared to a thin V-edge on a deep hollow grind... A pointy concealment fighting knife basically beats the daylights out of a massive dedicated chopper (and with far better handle confort, because the thin V-edge decelerates far more softly than the painfully abrupt stop of the Trailmaster's convex edge)...:

P7016061_zpsq7pp6acy.jpg


And the OP didn't say his knife was just a little dull, he said it was one of the dullest knives he'd seen from the box... And that it reminded him of an axe edge, which again doesn't sound too promising... Not to mention that I have heard some Busse are a lot thicker-edged than what you suggested...

So I would really like to see some edge thickness figures, so that at least I can have some remote idea if those things are not just bludgeoning their way through stuff, which doesn't interest me...

Gaston
 
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I have a fiskars axe that came with a BEEF worthy edge. It would shave from the factory, so maybe dull as an axe isn't a bad thing.
 
I will add that my kukri, which is also considered dull, goes through wood like a champ.
Maybe busse isn't suppose to be kitchen knife sharp, as these are promoted as hard impact knives.

One of my custom choppers came with a V edge, and convexed it and I performs MUCH better with convex edge

I know that once I add my own convex to the already convexed edge, that this baby will Chop like a monster.

Luckily for me, I'm a sharpening addict ;)

Ordering another nmfbm on the 20th from a member here, as soon as it arrives I am sharpening and polishing the edge, and will post results here.
Then it'll be sent off for sheath fitting.

Thanks everyone for your comments.
 
Gaston444,
Sounds like you have a predetermined opinion without any personal hands on experience with a Busse. I would recommend maybe buying a Busse blade and heck, maybe even put an edge on the knife if you prefer and come back at that time with your feedback at that time as it will carry more weight.

In my experience, too thin of an edge won't hold up to serious abuse and in my opinion is part of the Busse logic behind some of their blades. Having said that, infi with a thin blade will certainly hold up better than other steels. Also, in my opinion, these knives aren't just made to chop wood...chop a car or whatever you want and you will have impressive results.

Bottom line is, if you thought you were going to going to come on the Busse forum and doo doo these blades and find acceptance you were incredibly wrong.

I'd buy a Busse and come back and talk smack at that time after some use. Maybe your opinion will change or maybe it won't but it's tough for it to carry much weight until that time.
 
Gaston, you seem to be the only one who wants to talk numbers in a thread not about that topic. Plain and simple you don't buy a big Busse simply because you want a knife. You buy one because it is a multipurpose tool that can cut, chop, pry, dig, hammer, split, stab, slice, shave, drill, notch, featherstick, open cans, bust brick/concrete and about anything else you can think of while not worrying about it failing you when you need it most. If you don't comprehend that there not much more we can do for you. :confused: The NMFBM is a big 2 lb plus chopper that can do all of that, in this case it just might need a quick stropping to get it shaving sharp. If you had ever used a Busse you would know just how quick and easy that can be. Badmouthing an entire brand for one sample remedied by a simple 2 minute fix sounds petty when it took more than that much time to type up your statements. There are thin edged Busse blades and you are welcome to place an order for one, in fact I would love to see start your own thread to share your experiences once you chop wood with a custom hollow ground battle mistress whatever might be your huckleberry. :D In the typical bigger sized offerings they are beautiful thick sharpened prybars that people can and do depend on with their lives, that's what they want because it is what they like.

Please don't be like the guy who rides a Kawasaki KLR250 to the biker bar with his mind set to convince the bikers how much better his KLR250 with pizza cutters is than their Harleys & Indians with fat tires they choose to ride and talk about together. Those bikers might own KLR's too and will talk about them with Kawasaki guys where they socialize when they wish. :cool: Every flavor/brand/model is good if it makes it's owners happy as life is too short to be miserable by choice. Please remember this is Jino's thread about his first big Busse and despite the lack of a shaving sharp factory edge before stropping, he likes it enough to buy another. That says something and I am very happy for him enjoying his newly acquired property enough to share his enthusiasm with us, his fellow Bussekin collectors & users. His journey to Hogdom has just begun! :thumbup:

Jino, once again, congratulations on popping your Busse cherry and thanks for sharing! :D Just wait until you get to use one. Feeling that power of an NMFBM connecting with wood the first time is quite a rush! Also, thanks for showing class with your posts, you've got the stuff Hogs are made of. ;)
 
I agree Tim. I've found that each of my blades is multipurpose, and the best choppers IMHO, happen to be so because of handle ergos and nothing more.
The ASHBM and BWMCG.

Each on an entirely different side of the thickness spectrum. I do believe that I'll snag another NMFBM one of these days.

Jino! Congrats on the biggest and best basher our there! It's indestructible!

I'm jealous, that's for sure.
 
Thanks everyone, I'm sure I picked a good brand to buy knives from. I've been eyeballing the buy sell thread and forsee an empty bank account hehe.

Also, I sense a tight knit community here and how helpful you guys to one another, very respectable!
 
Thanks everyone, I'm sure I picked a good brand to buy knives from. I've been eyeballing the buy sell thread and forsee an empty bank account hehe.

Also, I sense a tight knit community here and how helpful you guys to one another, very respectable!

I'm fairly new myself but would only echo what you've said about the community. Great guys talking and helping, it doesn't hurt that they are the best blades anyone could buy. Any help we could offer just ask. Congrats on the user and safe queen route. I tried to just have queens in the beginning, now I look for any reason to get out the Ashbm and decimate things...
 
She's just too beautiful! I was about to start sharpening, but I'd hate to mess up the gorgeous finish.
So doesn't hurt to have 2! Or 3...
 
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