Difference between High-end and Low-end knives?

M

MrJim

Joined
Jul 10, 2016
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16
Hey guys,
With all the new, high-tech blades coming out for $200+, I began asking myself if I should bother putting in the money when I could get a cheap, good blade for under $30. So, I just want to ask. How much of a difference is there between the high end knives like BM and low end knives like out of country Kershaws or the Rat 1? Is it just the difference in steel, and if so, how much better even is the steel?
 
The steel has something to do with it as it could be the major cost of the bulk materials. The difference in steel performance would be difficult to put a price on, the differences being very small to a casual user. The country of origin plays a role in the price. The warranty and support offered has a value that comes at somewhat of a premium. There are probably more factors, but it comes down to how much YOU think you want to pay for a knife.
 
nickites said:
The difference in steel performance would be difficult to put a price on, the differences being very small to a casual user.
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That's what I had been thinking. I most use my edc for light tasks around the house, and it doesn't make sense to put in hundreds of dollars while a blade at an eighth of the cost would do the same.
 
Depends on if you are a "sophisticated user/steel junkie" or not, really. Me, I'm not into the sexiest new steel...but there's nothing wrong with being ionto the sexiest new steel.

Old carbon steels, AUS-8, VG-10 all work just fine for me.

But, I'm not into steels, and the people who are can tell the difference. I probably couldn't.

Again though, we have no idea "what" you are.
 
MrJim said:
That's what I had been thinking. I most use my edc for light tasks around the house, and it doesn't make sense to put in hundreds of dollars while a blade at an eighth of the cost would do the same.
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Absolutely correct. I've been using Kershaws, CRKTs, Boker Plus, Rough Riders, Colts and a few Schrade OTs for years and they all perform just fine. I don't think any of them cost more then $40. I don't understand the $1000 knife logic when a $20 knife will function just as well. Some people like to show off in a Rolls Royce or Caddie - I drive a 22 year old Ford that still gets me from A to B. Oh well - to each his/her own.

Rich
 
Considering you can buy US made and S30V steel in the $50-$100 range these days, it's hard to justify anything more.

Then on top of that you can always find lightly used knives for 30-50% off the regular price, which is my main source of knives. I haven't spent over $50 on a US made knife is quite some time.
 
Everyone finds their comfort/interest level buddy. I get my needs met in spades by ESEE and Cold Steel primarily. High end ?, not really, but definitely users, like this D2 Leatherneck.


My hatchet/axes run from $50.00 to $250.00 up here. A $50.00 Husqvarna hatchet is one of my favourites.


High end/low end doesn't apply to most of my cutting tools as I value them more for their utility/function, as opposed to aesthetics, but to each their own, which is perfectly fine also.
 
After about $130 in my mind, you've surpassed ergonomics and general "functional" knives, and moved into the arena of more variety. Ti, super steels, ball bearing pivots, flippers, framelocks, more brands as well.

With steel, when you move up into "premium" and "super" categories, you need to make sure you are good at sharpening whether by hand with stones, or investing in one of many guided systems (Spyderco Sharpmaker, EdgePro, Wicked Edge, etc). These blades will be harder and retain their edge longer than your run of the mill AUS 8, 8Cr, Sandvik 14c28n, 154CM, but will be increasingly more difficult to sharpen/touch up depending on what the steel is. You will also be opening yourself to the realm of "tool" steels, which trade corrosion resistance for impact resistance, or toughness. D2, CPM-M4, CPM 3V, etc.
 
I'm no expert, but I want a folder for more than cutting boxes and slicing apples. I want one that if I need to I could use to bush craft if an emergency ever came up. My fixed blades need to be something I can count on for camping and hiking - bushcrafting etc. I learned early on that a cheap knife wasn't too reliable,
I don't have high end stuff maybe but good dependable, well regarded stuff. I don't want to spend a dime more than I have to, but I don't want to waste money on something that I can't depend on either.
I guess it comes down to what your needs are.
 
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The only real way to know Is to have one of each and see what the difference is.
As already stated, some cannot justify the cost difference based on what their daily chores consist of.
 
KarateRick said:
I'm no expert, but I want a folder for more than cutting boxes and slicing apples. I want one that if I could use to bush craft if an emergency ever came up. My fixed blades need to be something I can count on for camping and hiking - bushcrafting etc. I learned early on that a cheap knife wasn't too reliable,
I don't have high end stuff maybe but good dependable, well regarded stuff. I don't want to spend a dime more than I have to but I don't want to waste money or something that I can't depend on either.
I guess it comes down to what your needs are.
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Great reply Rick.
 
Good advice here. My next will be a fixed blade and I am thinking of the Gerber Strongarm. Good reviews from most and the 420 HC steel while not top shelf seems acceptable. For around $50-55 sounds like some quality that won't break the bank.
 
mauser9 said:
Good advice here. My next will be a fixed blade and I am thinking of the Gerber Strongarm. Good reviews from most and the 420 HC steel while not top shelf seems acceptable. For around $50-55 sounds like some quality that won't break the bank.
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I have a Strongarm and really like it. It has it's purpose for me. I usually carry two knives when camping or doing any serious hiking. I carry one large - either my BK-2 or ESEE 6 and one medium - my Gerber Strongarm or Gerber Prodigy. I like the Gerber knives for finer work where I need more control and the larger knives for heavier cutting, splitting, bottoning etc.
I think it's a great knife and Made in the USA!
 
The Gerber Strongarm is a very underappreciated blade, IMHO. It has a great blade shape, size, and grippy handle. The blade steel is acceptable. The sheath is nothing short of ingenious. If you like tactical looking blades, this should be high on your short list. The only reason I didn't buy it, was that I specifically wanted a more primitive looking woodsman/bushcrft type knife.
 
A lot of this comes down to preference and to how much you like and use your knife. Sure for a lot of users out there a $30 cheap knife will do the trick. At the same time we get a lot of people walking in our shop with those same knives asking us to fix them. Sometimes these knives just get left in a pair of pants and the washing machine alone destroys them. Other cheaper knives hold up really well to abuse but the steel is not great and they dull quickly. A step up to the $50 range typically gets you a better knife with some decent steel choices and a company better known with better warranty. Once you get above that it really does come down to what you are looking for. I progressed from Kershaw, to lower priced benchmades, to spyderco, to ZT and then to Chris Reeve. With ZT I figured I was done. While I always had my eye on a Hinderer I figured the ZT0562 was basically the same thing. Then I finally put a Hinderer in my pocket. After 2 weeks of carrying it I personally understood and felt the differences. Each step I noticed something different or better that I liked. I still love all knives of all prices but you will be hard pressed to find me without at a minimum of a Benchmade or ZT in one pocket and a CRK or Hinderer in the other. I think after all my years I just realized I had to pay the extra money to get what I really liked and was willing to pay the money for it.
 
I'm one of those dummies that spend wayyyyy too much on knives....because I like them. But learned long ago that utility for specific purposes does not always need a big price tag. Those I own just because I'm a sucker for shiny things. ;) Today I have a ZT804CF in one pocket. But the $10 Colt Peanut from the other pocket was on mail duty. And quite frankly does a much better job for that task. But later if I help out in the warehouse, my needs may change. Thus the variety.
 
I managed to figure out my knife buying style pretty quickly. Any of my knives must be able to be used hard. They all must be able to do anything I'd need them to do. This has led me to buy knives that are bit overbuilt and exclusively fixed-blades. I spend anywhere from $70-140 on a knife generally. I also prefer tried and true carbon steels that have been around for a while like 1095 and O1 just because I've had good experiences with them holding edges and sharpening very well. Could I get a $20 knife to perform knife tasks? Sure. Would I pay extra to know my knife is overbuilt and "bomb proof" so-to-say? Yes.

I don't consider my types of knives (Beckers, Tops, and the like) to be high-end in price, but they are high-end in value and use. Just my .02
 
Cryptyc said:
I managed to figure out my knife buying style pretty quickly. Any of my knives must be able to be used hard. They all must be able to do anything I'd need them to do. This has led me to buy knives that are bit overbuilt and exclusively fixed-blades. I spend anywhere from $70-140 on a knife generally. I also prefer tried and true carbon steels that have been around for a while like 1095 and O1 just because I've had good experiences with them holding edges and sharpening very well. Could I get a $20 knife to perform knife tasks? Sure. Would I pay extra to know my knife is overbuilt and "bomb proof" so-to-say? Yes.

I don't consider my types of knives (Beckers, Tops, and the like) to be high-end in price, but they are high-end in value and use. Just my .02
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:thumbup:
 
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