DMT DIA-Sharp ?

I have the coarse synthetic and midieum and fine Arkansas . They don't work as well anymore . When I go to sharpen my knives they feel like the blade slip on the stone . I clean them but they still don't do the job . Not sure if there's something I can do to fix the stones . When I first got the set I was able to bring back the edge on all of knive but not anymore .

I'm going to check out the harbor freight by me see what they have . thanks for your suggestion .
 
Hi
I have the coarse synthetic and midieum and fine Arkansas . They don't work as well anymore . When I go to sharpen my knives they feel like the blade slip on the stone . I clean them but they still don't do the job . Not sure if there's something I can do to fix the stones . When I first got the set I was able to bring back the edge on all of knive but not anymore .

I'm going to check out the harbor freight by me see what they have . thanks for your suggestion .

Yes,
you can "condition" or "recut" the worn/glazed surface,
if stone is flat and has no dishing ,
simply rub it lightly with lubrication for 10-20 seconds max
on a slightly coarser abrasive (another stone, sandpaper on tile, or loose grit on tile/glass)

for the coarse/synthetic stone,
use a nail (or pointy rock) and scratch the stone (change colors),
make a few lines all over (loosen some grit),
then rub for 10-20 seconds max (with lube) on a tile with figure 8 movements
or just sharpen a knife with that loose grit on there and use all the stone to condition all of it


for the arkansas use some sandpaper wet/dry

if the grits are 400/600/1000+
you can use some grit you loosen from the coarse stone,
at least on the medium arkansas, its close enough

you can also use it on the fine arkansas ,
but it will take some sharpenings until it wears a bit and is producing a fine scratch pattern

harbor freight has Wet/Dry Sanding Sheets Assortment ,
can use 500 grit to condition medium arkansas
and 1000 grit to condition fine arkansas

Below is more of the same type of info and links :)

Hi,
yes, it is possible it has "worn", but its not dead yet :) all stones wear,
but its more likely your stone is loaded/dirty,
so you have to unload it, clean the stone,
maybe using a toothbrush and baby oil (or whatever oil you use)
or water and dish soap....

if cleaning doesn't restore adequate speed, , you have to re-condition/re-cut/loosen some grit
which can be as simple as scratch the surface of the stone with a nail, utility blade, pointy rock,
followed by a short 10-20 second scrub on something flat (glass, tile, another oil stone)...
or followed by sharpening /scrubbing with a knife


scratching the stone with a nail is also a pretty quick way to unload a stone, but it uses up more stone

more on unloading/flattening/lapping/conditioning



Hi,
to clean,
use dish soap and toothbrush and scrub
or use powder cleaner like ajax/comet/borax...

if cleaning/scrubbing this way it works to restore cutting ability to your satisfaction, you're done

if it doesn't work, you should "condition" or recut the stones
if they're dished and need flattening , do that before conditioning, use plenty of water when flattening, use figure eight movements to , scrub on another stone or flat pavement or brick , maybe with a pinch of fine sand to speed it up (scratch stone with a nail to make some) ......

the corundum (coarser stone) you can condition/unload by scratching with a nail to release some new grit, followed by a short scrub 20 seconds max, to make sure entire surface is conditioned, can be done by with a blade or another stone or ... and use water for lubrication

to condition the arkansas , which should be flat already,
use slightly coarser grit than the "grit" rating of the arkansas, on a flat piece of glass or a tile ($1) or stone /wood...
use lube(oil) and scrub for 20 seconds max on
sandpaper is more easily available locally than abrasive powder/loose grit/grain




watch stefanwolf88 condition arkansas stones and flattens them and ... lots of examples of flattening+conditioning or just conditioning, and sharpening with it, just about every kind of sharpening stone there is (he collects stones)

you can read more lube choices (oil...)and best uses for arkansas(microbeveling...) ..... in Soft Arkansas Review and 90/90/90° X-Grain Push Cut on Phonebook Paper with 154CM and Smith's Diamond Tri-Hone for various steels?

Hi,
sure, like most stones, its a two step process, 1) make it flat/flatten it, 2) then "condition" the stone so it cuts again
1) to flatten it you need a flat surface,
some pavement/concrete ,
or a flat piece of glass,
or a flat tile,
or another sharpening stone (like a dollar tree or other one dollar stone)
and rub the stone you're flattening (your lansky stone) using figure eight movement
however long it takes until its flat, use lots of water for lubrication
to speed up flattening add a pinch of sand or blast media (loose grit abrasive)
if its pretty flat, it takes maybe 1 maybe 3 or 5 minutes of scrubbing
on hard bond stones (like norton india/crystolon)
you should use as much force as you can manage without hurting yourself :)
for finer grit stones you don't want to flatten with very coarse grits unless there is a lot of dishing
2) to "condition" the stone, to make it abrasive again,
use lots of lube (you can switch to oil if you normally use oil )
and a short 5-10 second rub
on a slightly coarser grit than the stone you're conditioning
you can use a sheet of sandpaper (available everywhere) that is slightly coarser ,
so to condition 120-150 grit stone use 100-120 grit sandpaper (or loose grit)
so to condition 1200 grit stone use 1000-1200 grit sandpaper (or loose grit)
2) or you can "condition" the stone by scratching the surface to release some grit
you can a piece of hacksaw
or nail
or piece of stone
or even a knife
I do this on one dollar stones because it works / releases grit,
I also do this on norton crystolon/silicon carbide stones because it works to release grit,
I've also used the norton to flatten the dollar stone and vice versa and that worked well
I don't use loose grit/abrasive powder because my local hardware stores don't sell it in $1 amounts , but I hear auto body shop/sandblasters, will sell you a $1 worth (not tried it)
This guy flattens/conditions a lot of stones Lapping / flattening sharpening stone with sandpaper - stefanwolf88

Keep in mind the lansky extra coarse hone (70 grit) is listed at $6 ,
so spending a dollar on sandpaper or loose grit for this stone doesn't exactly make sense to me,
I would just flatten it on a brick or pavement and condition it with hacksaw/rock
 
I have the coarse synthetic and midieum and fine Arkansas . They don't work as well anymore . When I go to sharpen my knives they feel like the blade slip on the stone . I clean them but they still don't do the job . Not sure if there's something I can do to fix the stones . When I first got the set I was able to bring back the edge on all of knive but not anymore .

I'm going to check out the harbor freight by me see what they have . thanks for your suggestion .

The Arkansas stones are glazing because the vanadium carbides in the S90V blade are polishing it. They're about 3+ times as hard as the natural abrasive in the stone. I'd avoid using Ark stones for such steels in the future, if you do make the effort to recondition the stones. They'll just glaze again, and likely very fast, if the steels sharpened on them are very wear resistant like S90V. Diamond hones will do much better on such steels.

EDITED TO ADD:
As mentioned subsequently in other posts, the HF diamond hones may bring other forms of frustration (not flat, flimsy construction, etc). If you're wanting diamond (and that would be a big plus for S90V and similar steels), something of better quality will be worth the money spent. That doesn't have to be a lot; anything in the $25-$50 range could work well, including hones from reputable makers like DMT and EZE-Lap. For example, Home Depot currently carries a single-sided, interrupted surface 6" x 2" Fine diamond (600) hone from DMT for under $30. As a maintenance hone, it'd work fine for an S90V blade or anything else you want to sharpen.


David
 
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The only caution I would have with the harbor freight products is they are rarely close to flat.
The big box hardware stores around here have smith and dmt folding diamond hones, pretty cheap way to scratch that diamond itch, and you don't even have to wait for the mail.
Russ
 
Did I mention I own and use the 2 sided stone the OP initially asked about?

It a good one and well worth the 40 or 50 bucks. Op should still recondition his older stones for general use, but if one doesn't have a ton of high VC steel, there's no point in getting more than you need.

He could also just get a good SiC stone and not shoot for a refined edge on that knife.
 
I'm going to check out the harbor freight by me see what they have . thanks for your suggestion .

It's already been said, but it's worth repeating: All Harbor Freight products are similar: They are cheap junk. Cheap junk has it's place. I have a few of their products myself. But I know what they are and what they are not.

DMT diamond plates are very different than HF diamond plates.

Bucketstove says he gets great results with all of the ultra cheap stones he recommends. He's probably a better sharpener than I am. I think it's worth spending extra money to get good tools to make my job easier. I just hate bad tools that fight you while you are trying to work. You can, of course, make up your own mind.

Brian.
 
There is no reason to cheat yourself of quality tools, you want cheap? Buy a Norton India or Crystolon stone. Don't want to dump a bunch of money on DMT stones? Just buy the Coarse DMT and some diamond paste, as I said, very good combo.

Buying from harbor freight or the dollar store is simply asking for problems. Don't make sharpening harder than it has to be.
 
There is no reason to cheat yourself of quality tools, you want cheap? Buy a Norton India or Crystolon stone. Don't want to dump a bunch of money on DMT stones? Just buy the Coarse DMT and some diamond paste, as I said, very good combo.

Buying from harbor freight or the dollar store is simply asking for problems. Don't make sharpening harder than it has to be.

And he drops the mike...


Close the thread.....


Russ
 
There is no reason to cheat yourself of quality tools, you want cheap? Buy a Norton India or Crystolon stone. Don't want to dump a bunch of money on DMT stones? Just buy the Coarse DMT and some diamond paste, as I said, very good combo.

Buying from harbor freight or the dollar store is simply asking for problems. Don't make sharpening harder than it has to be.

Jason, what would you recommend for forged W2 @ 62 Rockwell?
 
I would recommend waterstones for good hard carbon steels. The Kohetsu 800 and 2000 or Shapton Glass 500 and 2000, main difference between them is the Kohetsu are soft and Shapton are hard. Both cut quickly and will produce very sharp edges. The Shapton will yield a more polished bevel while the Kohetsu stones yield a frosty/hazy bevel.

Diamond lapping plate (Atoma 140 or DMT XXC highly recommended) is a must have too, so factor that into the set.
 
I would recommend waterstones for good hard carbon steels. The Kohetsu 800 and 2000 or Shapton Glass 500 and 2000, main difference between them is the Kohetsu are soft and Shapton are hard. Both cut quickly and will produce very sharp edges. The Shapton will yield a more polished bevel while the Kohetsu stones yield a frosty/hazy bevel.

Diamond lapping plate (Atoma 140 or DMT XXC highly recommended) is a must have too, so factor that into the set.

:thumbup: you just cost me some money :)
 
What's the biggest difference between the shapton glass and DMT ? Does one work better than the other .
 
Thanks to all the guys that gave me great advice. So this is what I got .



Now I need to know how to use them . Tips will be appreciated.

Thanks guys
 
Thanks to all the guys that gave me great advice. So this is what I got .



Now I need to know how to use them . Tips will be appreciated.

Thanks guys

Awesome, can't see which ones, coarse and x fine? I like to break them in with a chefs knife and plenty of water.

I am no expert but use really really light pressure, as they say, let the diamonds do the work
Those two plates will serve you well.
P M me your address, I will whip you up a strop to mess with.

Good luck, Russ
 
Bodog, can you help translate what that page is saying about grit sizes? I used the google translate, but I have no idea what a given diamond plate they sell has for a micron rating. For example, the stone priced at 1810 rubles, the micron rating given is 200/160-160/125. What does all of that mean??? 200micron? 160? 125? Another example, the very top left stone on the list, it says 3/ 2-1 /0. I have no idea what means.

Hope this helps...

Label ..............~grain size...............(Grit)

250/200..........~ 250 microns..........(60)
200/160..........~ 200 microns..........(80)
160/125..........~ 150 microns..........(100)
125/100..........~ 110 microns..........(120)
100/80............~ 100 microns..........(150)
50/40..............~ 45 microns...........(320)
20/14..............~ 20 microns...........(700)
10/7................~ 10 microns...........(1200)
7/5..................~ 6 microns............(2500)
3/2..................~ 3 microns............(5000)
1/0..................~ 1 microns............(15000)
 
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