dmt sharpening stones

D

david3151

Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Messages
102
ok I free hand and would like to get a set of dmt sharpening stones . I sharping s30v a lot and have a s110v on pre-order and know ill need the diamond's for that knife .
i have $130 set a side for them and could add some more .

im looking for a great place to buy them on the net . (6"x2" or 8"x3")

also looking for some diamond spray for a pice of leather to make the s110v shine ? ( i have leather just need diamond spray and size )

any help would be great
thanks
 
I would recommend the 8x3 size, they are in the 50$ range each. If you do an internet search, you can find places that sell sets of them. The set will set you back around 200$ but comes with 4 grits. As for diamond spray, you can find it many different places. The spray that I use was designed for sharpening straight razors, so you might want to check out one of those stores. If you want more specific information, send me an email or PM and I will be glad to help you.
 
There is a set of four 6x2 set in a box for only $80 that is all four grits. Xcoarse coarse, fine and Xfine. Continuous diamonds stones. I think it was at sharpening supplies.
 
has anyone used this

NEW DMT DiaSpray

DMT DiaSpray™ is a great way to achieve the finest edge possible on knives, straight razors and woodworking tools. The .5 micron diamond particles are accurately graded so you can feel confident that your edge is being carefully honed. .85 oz. (25 ml) per bottle. (Please note: The DiaSpray pump spray bottle will appear approximately half full upon receipt and needs to be shaken well before use.)

and how long do yall say a set of dmt stones will last?
 
Knife Works has good prices on DMT and they have everything I've ever looked for from DMT. Diamonds are hard to use to get a very highly polished edge. I mean a "mirror" edge. But that's mainly for showing off or for cosmetics. With the DMT EF you can produce very sharp, very usable edges. In fact, for some uses, the EF is too refined. I'd rate the EF edge at something close to the Spyderco medium ceramic, or about 600 to 800 grit. It's not exactly the same, but it's close. Seems to work well for kitchen use.

I'm probably going to get some pointed disagreement on this, but I've been following the advice of a former BF member who advocated skipping a grade in between each DMT. Namely, he said to start with the XXC, move to the C, and finish with the EF. I've found this to work just fine on every blade I've tried it on. One sharpener who I greatly respect is likely to be shaking his head reading this and might chime in with his opinion. All I can say is that the XXC, C, EF, progression gets blades very sharp and works for me.

The XXC is my favorite DMT stone. But the more I read from those that know, the more I think that I'd spend the extra $30 or so to get an Atoma 120 plate if I were to start over again.

Good luck to you.

Brian.
 
bgentry said:
Knife Works has good prices on DMT and they have everything I've ever looked for from DMT. Diamonds are hard to use to get a very highly polished edge. I mean a "mirror" edge. But that's mainly for showing off or for cosmetics. With the DMT EF you can produce very sharp, very usable edges. In fact, for some uses, the EF is too refined. I'd rate the EF edge at something close to the Spyderco medium ceramic, or about 600 to 800 grit. It's not exactly the same, but it's close. Seems to work well for kitchen use.

I'm probably going to get some pointed disagreement on this, but I've been following the advice of a former BF member who advocated skipping a grade in between each DMT. Namely, he said to start with the XXC, move to the C, and finish with the EF. I've found this to work just fine on every blade I've tried it on. One sharpener who I greatly respect is likely to be shaking his head reading this and might chime in with his opinion. All I can say is that the XXC, C, EF, progression gets blades very sharp and works for me.

The XXC is my favorite DMT stone. But the more I read from those that know, the more I think that I'd spend the extra $30 or so to get an Atoma 120 plate if I were to start over again.

Good luck to you.

Brian.
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For mirror-polishing with diamonds, finishing in a sequence like DMT Fine hone -> EF hone -> 3µ Dia-Paste on a wood strop can get it very close, very fast. This is the sequence I used in bringing up a fast, shiny and sharper-than-ever mirror on an S30V Leek (Kershaw). Coming off an EF DMT hone, the 3µ Dia-Paste on a wood strop (I used basswood) is especially impressive in cleaning up the scratches left by the hone and bringing up the mirror. Inserting other available intermediate grits at appropriate steps in the sequence, like the EEF hone and the 6µ & 1µ Dia-Paste can help refine the 'shine' even more thoroughly.

That aside, it is pretty impressive how good the edges can be at any one of DMT's grit levels, from XC through EEF at least. Great edges can be made across the range, with some minimal stropping afterwards, to preserve the toothy bite left by the hones.

(That Leek was the 'Aha!' moment for me, in realizing it's not as difficult to polish with diamonds as I'd previously assumed. And on S30V to boot, which I'd almost assumed to be 'unpolishable', at least by my own previous efforts. That left an impression on me. :))


David
 
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ok i pulled the triger today .

DMT 6" Dia-Sharp Kit
(xc, c, f, xf)


Norton Diamond Paste 5 Gram ( 3 micron )

and


DMT DiaSpray ( .5 micron diamond particles)

ill let yall know how it works out
thanks for all the help
 
david3151 said:
ok i pulled the triger today .

DMT 6" Dia-Sharp Kit
(xc, c, f, xf)


Norton Diamond Paste 5 Gram ( 3 micron )

and


DMT DiaSpray ( .5 micron diamond particles)

ill let yall know how it works out
thanks for all the help
Click to expand...

Sounds like a good set! Did you buy it all from the place that has the 6 inch dmt's? Just curious! :)
 
Hope you enjoy your diamond stones. Still, SiC and Aluminum oxide can sharpen S30V, the vanadium steels and are more economical. DM
 
David Martin said:
Hope you enjoy your diamond stones. Still, SiC and Aluminum oxide can sharpen S30V, the vanadium steels and are more economical. DM
Click to expand...

He's got S110V on the way too, I am not too sure how Aluminum oxide will fare against S110V. Have you tried that combo or know if it will work well? I know SiC will work on S90V though, haven't seen someone try S110V but I don't doubt that it will still work.
 
I am no sharpening guru by any means as my blades dont see much use but it seems to me that I notice alot of comments about having to buy some other kind of stone to keep up with the steels coming out like s110v or s90v or whatever so to me it seems to make sense to just get some diamond stones now instead of adding something else to the line up when something new steel comes out.

I dont have any diamond stones or much experience sharpening but I do have the dmt aligner kit as well as a sharpmaker and with that I hope I can keep my blades sharp should they get dull, no matter what the steel. :)

Just my opinion!!
 
Bob6794 said:
He's got S110V on the way too, I am not too sure how Aluminum oxide will fare against S110V. Have you tried that combo or know if it will work well? I know SiC will work on S90V though, haven't seen someone try S110V but I don't doubt that it will still work.
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I realize that as I read it. To date I have not had the opportunity to sharpen S90V on a Norton India stone. However, reading back thru my posts would reveal I have sharpened S30V and S60V using a India stone. With no problems. I'm of notion the Norton stone is harder and the hardness of vanadium is over stated. It cuts vanadium on these steels... Increasing the percentage of V makes no difference. If it will cut one vanadium carbide it will cut three. Granted one could say, it's slow. But to me all these materials cut similar. The initial investment of SiC and India compared to a diamond stone is huge. Plus, the operating economy of the first two materials mentioned offer many pluses. Your ideas may vary. DM
 
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IMHO - thinking out loud about small angle on abrasive, ignoring many other aspects about sharpening ...

According to Norton - http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/272101-Norton-Fine-India-Oil-Stone?p=3794374#post3794374
Medium India 240x CAMI = ~436x JIS;
Fine India 340x CAMI = ~618x JIS; ~30um (AO - aluminum oxide)

Abrasive at 30um size whether it's diamond, cbn, AO, SiC, bn will plough the steel matrix, avg 2um carbide (VC, WC, MoC, NbC, etc..) will get plough along as collateral/incidental. So carbide abrading(partially cut carbide grain) in this case is insignificant or not meaningful result because abrasive plougher has effective cutting point no less than 10um wide and 5um depth penetration. Higher volume of hard carbide will increase fracture rate for AO, SiC abrasive crystal which reduce plough effectiveness. If fractured grit (depend on friability coeff of particular abrasive) fall below 10-12um plougher threshold, into abrading action then softer sub 10um abrasive (OA and soft SiC) will become ineffective against hard carbide VC, WC. However increase impact force via powered system(belt/disk grinder) + deeper feed rate (high pressure), soft abrasive can work well until 4-5um threshold. Of course, higher impact force could also fracture steel grain and carbide and matrix surrounding the carbide.

Note - varying pressure translates directly to effective grit size. e.g. use 0.5oz pressure on a 1/4" wide bevel and 1" long contact, using coarse/med/fine OA, will not work well (under statement) on high % VC steels. otoh, sharp DMT XX under the same condition will work because diamond will abrade the matrix & carbide.
 
I'm not sure one can make any generalizations re abrasive size and cutting width except as an average. From many hrs spent staring at edges under magnification have come to believe all well prepared cutting edges are sub micron along the highest points and in some cases along the terminal edges of some grind troughs back into the bevel. The abrasive size will certainly determine how uniform that edge is and in combination with the means of presentation and type of steel will determine the shape of the grind troughs as they reach the apex. Along the apex there will be many spots where there was a clean intersection on opposite sides of the bevel to some extent, crafting a very acute formation at that intersection.
 
We are on the same page, Martin :)

I mostly stated for users what to expect when using certain abrasive type & size. Certain there are way too many variables at play for any predictable kind of generalization. Sophisticated/experienced sharpeners can tell or already figured out thing but for others, perhaps jack of all trade (diamond abrasive) maybe has better sharpening utility/effectiveness for wide range of steels - low & high alloy. ymmv - hehehe.


HeavyHanded said:
I'm not sure one can make any generalizations re abrasive size and cutting width except as an average. From many hrs spent staring at edges under magnification have come to believe all well prepared cutting edges are sub micron along the highest points and in some cases along the terminal edges of some grind troughs back into the bevel. The abrasive size will certainly determine how uniform that edge is and in combination with the means of presentation and type of steel will determine the shape of the grind troughs as they reach the apex. Along the apex there will be many spots where there was a clean intersection on opposite sides of the bevel to some extent, crafting a very acute formation at that intersection.
Click to expand...
 
bluntcut said:
We are on the same page, Martin :)

I mostly stated for users what to expect when using certain abrasive type & size. Certain there are way too many variables at play for any predictable kind of generalization. Sophisticated/experienced sharpeners can tell or already figured out thing but for others, perhaps jack of all trade (diamond abrasive) maybe has better sharpening utility/effectiveness for wide range of steels - low & high alloy. ymmv - hehehe.
Click to expand...

If I were going witha lot of high VC steels I'd be sure to pick up a few diamond plates. For the casual VC sharpener, some diamond lapping films work great and cost less. On all other types of steel, I really don't much care for diamonds...
In all honesty, I don't much care for a high polish on the higher carbide steels anyway, so I have no problem just using SiC.
 
David Martin said:
I realize that as I read it. To date I have not had the opportunity to sharpen S90V on a Norton India stone. However, reading back thru my posts would reveal I have sharpened S30V and S60V using a India stone. With no problems. I'm of the notion the stone is harder and the hardness of vanadium is over stated. It cuts vanadium on these steels... Increasing the percentage of V makes no difference. If it will cut one vanadium carbide it will cut three. Granted one could say, it's slow. But to me all these materials cut similar. The initial investment of SiC and India compared to a diamond stone is huge. Plus, the operating economy of first two materials mentioned offer many pluses. Your ideas may vary. DM
Click to expand...

That's quite interesting I would have never thought it that way. I guess I have underestimated India, thanks for correcting me :). As a side note I love to use my norton economy stones both a SiC and India versions over my DMT Aligner stones regularly so that is some very good news to me.
 
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