Does this kind of sharpener even WORK?!

peacefuljeffrey

peacefuljeffrey

Joined
Feb 24, 2001
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I came across this Benchmade sharpener on knifecenter.com, and I have to wonder, why is Benchmade even marketing a drag-through-a-V sharpener?

Ever since I learned how to sharpen on a stone, I have regarded these things as FOLLY. How can they possibly work? Does the kind like the one in this link work? Is it even a decent temporary substitute for sharpening on a real stone using a real method? I'm reluctant to believe it is even that.

Benchmade field sharpener that I can't believe would do any good
 
It should work okay as long as you're using one side at a time, right?
 
It's not supposed to replace a real stone. It's a "field sharpener". You take it out in the field with you so you can quickly touch up your knife in field if you have to. The thing fits in your pocket.
 
I guess in a pinch it would be better than nothing. It's designed as a field sharpener and put on a basic working edge. Some people may not poses the skill to put on a better edge with a flat stone, or another type of sharpener. It's certainly not something an expert sharpener would use.
 
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Some of those work OK, but there are some caveats to be aware of. Many have carbide elements that scrape away steel in a rather rough fashion. The better ones might have diamond abrasives and/or ceramic stages in slightly different angles that would offer better performance. They generally aren't any good if the blade has chipped or rolled edges or needs reprofiling.
 
I went to the site and read it. It says it has a 60 degree inclusive angle. It kindly sounds like it would put a super-steep micro-bevel on your blade.... that you would have to dress up when you got back home.
 
Well, made by Benchmade or anybody else, I think these pullthough sharpeners are worse than useless. Shecky had it right: it tears off metal, instead of cleanly abrading it. It also bends the edge into an "S" shape around the carbide pieces which can result in microtears in the edge, especially if you take a thin edge to it, which is far less than 30 deg per side. And finally: 60 deg included.....why not make it an even 90 degrees, then you could sharpen the edge straight into the stone :rolleyes:.

Field sharpening is always a bit of a problem. I think you would be hard pressed to find a lighter setup that offers a guide and is complete, than a Sharpmaker+Diamond hone. If you have some experience with freehanding a host of opportunities opens up. Probably the lightest and most compact setup would be a Doublestuff (Spyderco)+ a strip of cardboard that you've loaded up with a little bit of compound. Instead of the Doublestuff you could saw off a 2" piece from a fairly affordable 8" 1000/6000 King stone for example. That would make a nice hand-held stone and would leave a 6" benchstone which is still pretty useful. Leevalley also sells some slipstones which should work well. Shapton sells some aswell, but they are not cheap. Just my musing. Personally I either carry the Sharpmaker which has traveled by now many times over the Atlantic or two Shapton slipstones and some compound - a strip of cardboard I can find anywhere).
 
Never had a problem with my washita pocket stone. 2.5x1" Sure it leaves something of a rough finish,but its course enough to not need a course stone while fine enough to not need a fine stone. Now with the leather pond loaded up with compound it even functions as a strop! (see my thread in toolshed)
 
HoB said:
Well, made by Benchmade or anybody else, I think these pullthough sharpeners are worse than useless.

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Well come now, don't hold back and tell us how you really feel:D :p

Well to be honest these things only hurt the eyes of us knife nuts;)

A lot of people that don't care about micro bevels and polished edges (And claim to be just as happy non the less:eek: :eek: :eek: ) will find that these will indeed make their knifes a lot sharper, because their knife is really really dull to begin with.

My mom who works with a knife cutting up fish in a factory, was real happy when I gave one of those things (Not the very same one, but in principal the same) because now she does not have to wait for a smith to come sharpen her knife.
In 30 sec. she can do it her self and get an edge that will work well for real life stuff.

And I was glad to get rid of it :thumbup:
 
There are two types- one uses carbide blades to scrape the steel off. Others use an abrasive. You can get a very sharp edge at 30 degrees, so that is not a problem.
It really makes no difference whether metal is abraded lengthwise.
Bill
 
Bill DeShivs said:
It really makes no difference whether metal is abraded lengthwise.
Bill
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No one said so, in this thread at least, though there are some who are of the opinion that the lengthwise scratch pattern is weakening the edge (I am still undecided whether I agree or not). I have not seen this type of sharpener with abrasives....but I admit I haven't really paid much attention to them either. My beef is mainly with the carbide type that scrapes of the material. The problem that you are forcing the edge into an "S" shape should remain whether an abrasive is used or a carbide edge. By the way, I am not alone in my dislike for these type of sharpeners. Leonard Lee for example states in is book pretty clearly what he thinks of them aswell.

Sure you can get a sharp edge at 60 deg included, you can get a very sharp edge at 90 deg included as well, you can make a very sharp right angle without much of a problem.....these range of angles just don't cut very well.
 
As far as lengthwise scratches 'weakening' the blade, I'll just say I always sharpen my hatchets and machetes (which have quite htin blades for choppers) on my die grinder with a grinding wheel. I run this up and down the blade lengthwise (in the plane of rotation). And they all hold an edge just fine. Especially my machete's.
 
I work in profecinal kitchens and I use one all the time on the crummy house knifes. if your knife has a badly messed up angle or chips in it, they are a great way to get if working again fast. on the other hand I will never use it on one of my custom kitchen knifes. The company that makes the Benchmade one makes one at a 30 degree angle and that what I use for kitchen knives. one or two passes and your back to work but if you push hard you will screw up the blade really bad.:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbdn::thumbdn::thumbup::thumbup:
 
Talk about an old post... And it brings up a bad point I've made. That die grinder was quick but highly inaccurate. Now I just used a bastard file.
 
Have a good quality knife to start with, sharpen it properly, and you won't need to re-sharpen it in the field. :D
 
A nice flat rock would do as well or better for just a touchup.Lay a strip of 400 grit wet dry paper on the flat rock if you need more.
 
ok so first of all most of the field sharpeners do not work i will give you that, however all of you that doubt or hate on the benchmade field sharpener are crazy or just obviously have not really tried one. i can GUARANTEE that i can take one and equal or better anything you can do with a stone. period. you can sharpen an axe a hatchet or any straight blade i use it on broadheads for hunting too , it is the single best investment i think i have ever made. so back off before you try one
 
chriscov021 said:
ok so first of all most of the field sharpeners do not work i will give you that, however all of you that doubt or hate on the benchmade field sharpener are crazy or just obviously have not really tried one. i can GUARANTEE that i can take one and equal or better anything you can do with a stone. period. you can sharpen an axe a hatchet or any straight blade i use it on broadheads for hunting too , it is the single best investment i think i have ever made. so back off before you try one
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I'll take that challenge for the zombie thread :D
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