Drawknives anyone? Spokeshaves?

Pegs, looks like you had to grind off the tops of those brass nuts to get clearance...am I right?

Did you just use a die and cut threads on to the tangs?????
 
Right on both counts, Memphis.
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I threaded them 10-32.

Originally the tangs were just peened down over some washers. I had to grind that off to remove the washers and the one remaining handle. I saved and re-used the old washers - nice patina already on them. Tang peened over washers is the same method I used on my home made drawknife.

With this one I envisioned dark red/brown handles from the beginning and I thought that brass cap nuts would go well with it. I guess I could have found some brass washers and peened the tang over those. But I like that fact that I can replace the handles again if necessary without doing any grinding next time.

I still need to hone the edge. I just wanted some pictures first because I like the patina'd look of the edge.
 
Sweet work Square Peg. I've never seen a folder before, but those handle really make for a great look. Good protection as well.

All the shaving horses are very nice. That's a project I've been wanting to make for a while now. This is inspring me to start putting a material list together and get started.

I've got a couple of draw knives, I'll try and get some photo's and post them up. They are hand me down's when my Papaw passed away.
 
How about a bowl gouge?

This is my "new" old bowl gouge. This is my first project with it and I love it so far. If my research is correct this gouge cannot be newer than 1880. Crazy, huh?
IMG_8899.jpg


Needs a little more fine tuning. The edge is a little wavy. Do you fellas find it worthwhile to make the edge perfectly straight or just roll with the waviness?
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Take care,

Matt
 
Cool. Tough to sharpen those buggers, ain't it? Got a slip stone yet?

I try to get the edge as straight as possible but I never get them perfect.
 
How about a bowl gouge?

This is my "new" old bowl gouge. This is my first project with it and I love it so far. If my research is correct this gouge cannot be newer than 1880. Crazy, huh?
IMG_8899.jpg


Needs a little more fine tuning. The edge is a little wavy. Do you fellas find it worthwhile to make the edge perfectly straight or just roll with the waviness?
IMG_8900.jpg


IMG_8903.JPG


Take care,

Matt
Very cool Memphis!
I should try my hand at a little carving.
 
Cool. Tough to sharpen those buggers, ain't it? Got a slip stone yet?

I try to get the edge as straight as possible but I never get them perfect.

No, I don't. I've thrown out a couple bids lately on big lots of sharpening stones, slip stones, strops, etc. but the lots have all gone for WAY more than I have ventured. I'll keep at it, though.

And I forgot to say, that's a nifty piece of carving work. Gonna sand it and finish it?

Thank you, Pegs! I will definitely finish it up. I'm just trying to decide the best way to patch up my mistake.

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Very cool Memphis!
I should try my hand at a little carving.

Thanks, Red. You should. It's therapeutic.
 
Here's a couple.

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Nice stuff you have there. Leather on your jaws and everything.
I think I own a scraper that is identical to yours. For whatever reason I just can't seem to get mine tuned. Just looking at the pick I get the impression that the blade in yours is thicker. Did you change it?
I also like the wood spoke shaves I just don't get to use them as much as I would like.
 
I've thrown out a couple bids lately on big lots of sharpening stones, slip stones, strops, etc. but the lots have all gone for WAY more than I have ventured. I'll keep at it, though.

New slip stones are available at modest prices. I found an old Norton in it's original box at an estate sale for a buck.


I'm just trying to decide the best way to patch up my mistake.

Titebond III?
 
Titebond III?

I have some of that, and it works amazing. I'm just wondering about food safety. I was planning to use this kuksa. I'm thinking I might use clear epoxy, maybe mix in a little fine saw dust. What do you think?
 
If going that route I'd go with straight epoxy. The wood flour just gets in the way. After the crack has been glued you can fill any remaining cracks with wood flour cement (sawdust & epoxy).


Titebond III website

Titebond III is non-toxic, solvent free and cleans up with water - safer to use than traditional waterproof wood glues. It provides strong initial tack, sands easily without softening and is FDA approved for indirect food contact (cutting boards).
 
I'm using the large drawknife pictured here to make this cherry canoe paddle. The small drawknife is used for the fine work on the handle, shaft and throat of the paddle. I also have a straight and concave lie-nielson spoke-shave, but I find the dk better for even the fine work on the paddle.

drawknife.jpg
 
Cherry will make a great paddle. It's very tough wood. I used to have a cherry staff that shocked me with how much abuse it would take.
 
I finally finished re-handling that old drawknife with the burnt handles. Recall what it looked like when I got it.

A_J_Wilkinson_drawknife.jpg



Here's what it looks like now.

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With the handles in the wide position.

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In the closed position the handles guard the edge.

Drawknife5.jpg



I think I did pretty good for $5 and a little sweat.

very nice work! and cool stuff, with 3 positions: folded, bicycle, and motorbike!
i have got 3 or four off them, very usefull tool, when carving axe handle for example...
 

Stanley 51 and a KeenKutter 91.


Carriage makers brass chamfer shave.

These three are my latest additions. Every time I see a shave and it’s not a crazy price I get it!

I dont mind reviving this thread. It was a great read this morning and Square Peg, that folding handle draw knife is gorgeous!

I have this guy here...

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8" WORTH
:thumbsup:

Miller, I just wanted to thank you for reviving this thread!! I hope we can keep this one going for a while!!
 
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