EDC - What's in Your Pocket(s)??

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Timscaw

On impulse I bought a Gerber paraframe II - I agree with you it is actually quite a nice knockabout knife. The design I find quite good - I assume the qaulity isn't high, but am pleased that you find it holds up to everyday use. So you find the edge reasonable and the axle sturdy enough?

I am an old sucker for gerbers with a couple of thier old bolt knives and at last count 3 ultrasmall LST's
 
motorola slver, car keys, neosporin lip treatment, fox labs 2 oz oc spray, wallet, and my trusted emerson cqc 12. :thumbup:
 
I noticed very few of you guys use the comtech stinger and even nobody the koppo stick. why? I really love the stinger and I have also a koppo in my Jacket poket...
 
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What's surprising to me is how little reprofiled knives you see in this thread. Are you guys really that satisfied with factory edges?
 
Vivi said:
What's surprising to me is how little reprofiled knives you see in this thread. Are you guys really that satisfied with factory edges?
Click to expand...

Most of my factory knives can shave the hair off my arm out of the box(Kershaw, Benchmade, Spyder, Mcusta....) and they all seem to handle most cutting tasks with great ease, so no, I have never felt a need to reprofile my edges. I notice you talk about reprofiling your edges quite a bit, but personally even if i wanted to, I don't know if I could do it. I can put a good edge on any of my knives with the sharpeners I have, but I think you're talking about a more extreme mod to entire blade profile, and I've never attempted that.

Cheers
 
Well any edge angle can be sharpened to a hair shaving edge, but a 45 degree inclusive edge will cut MUCH differently than a 20 degree inclusive edge in any material where geometry and not just sharpness plays a factor. Cardboard, wood, thick plastics and so on.

It just strikes me as odd considering we're knife knowledgable people, that know how to properly use a knife, but so many here are content with edges that are put on with the "average joe" in mind and not knife knuts.

So my real question is have any of you using factory profiles experienced repeated edge damage using your knife for EDC type tasks? If the edge has held up fine, why not try thinning it out a few degrees and see it how it works like that? General rule of thumb for knife edges is to keep it just a hair thicker than it needs to be to handle the most abusive things your knife is likely to see, but I get the impression that many people have never even tried finding out what that angle is for them. This is the reason I got the Krein re-grind pass-around started, so people who had never tried that kind of geometry could work with it and see how well it cuts.
 
Vivi said:
Well any edge angle can be sharpened to a hair shaving edge, but a 45 degree inclusive edge will cut MUCH differently than a 20 degree inclusive edge in any material where geometry and not just sharpness plays a factor. Cardboard, wood, thick plastics and so on.

It just strikes me as odd considering we're knife knowledgable people, that know how to properly use a knife, but so many here are content with edges that are put on with the "average joe" in mind and not knife knuts.

So my real question is have any of you using factory profiles experienced repeated edge damage using your knife for EDC type tasks? If the edge has held up fine, why not try thinning it out a few degrees and see it how it works like that? General rule of thumb for knife edges is to keep it just a hair thicker than it needs to be to handle the most abusive things your knife is likely to see, but I get the impression that many people have never even tried finding out what that angle is for them. This is the reason I got the Krein re-grind pass-around started, so people who had never tried that kind of geometry could work with it and see how well it cuts.
Click to expand...

I put a 18-24 degree (vague guess) inclusive edge on my Spyderco Endura 4 Wave and my Pacific Salt. I just don't take pics. For the most part, my edges work fine and the thought of thinning out the edge means a lot of work that I generally don't feel like spending, especially on my Spyderco ceramic stones (all that I got at the moment). I reprofiled my pacific Salt in no time when I was at my friends house since he has a diamond sharpener. If I borrowed that, I might just be tempted to do it with another blade.

For the most part, I can get my knives to shave without touching my skin, which is far from "your avaerage joe's" edge, even though the grind is factory. So for me, it's a matter of getting a diamond sharpener AND having the free time.
 
Lately I've been carrying either my CRKT M16-10Z:
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or my CRKT Ichi:
crktichisilverfront.jpg


But i just recently bought the Kershaw Rainbow Leek:
botach_1968_80898931


I eagerly await every opportunity to use it because of the very satisfying click when it opens and then I get to look at how purdy it is, lol.

This knife starts a conversation EVERY time somebody sees it. :cool:
 
Leatherman Wave on belt vertical sheath, Benchmade outbounder 180 in ONscene Tactical sheath, crkt stiff kiss IWB behind multitool, Surefire E2l with paracord wrap in pocket with cell phone, in other pocket a bic lighter, leatherman micra, and a small opinel.
 
Vivi said:
So my real question is have any of you using factory profiles experienced repeated edge damage using your knife for EDC type tasks? If the edge has held up fine, why not try thinning it out a few degrees and see it how it works like that? General rule of thumb for knife edges is to keep it just a hair thicker than it needs to be to handle the most abusive things your knife is likely to see, but I get the impression that many people have never even tried finding out what that angle is for them.
Click to expand...

Sharpening is a much, much debated topic -
although I cannot disagree the single edge bevel angle is important -
in this case you are right the more acute the better (within reason of course).

Just like you said for the "average Joe" 45deg total inclusive is a good general edge bevel - and this is the point - on an EDC - which generally is for general purpose - this angle is actually pretty optimal - I mean, really, how many people actually shave with their EDC - as a real preference over their razors?

Again, yes, cutting through cardboard a more actute bevel will show advantages -
but I do not think it's the actual final cutting edge that's the main contributor - I think it's the narrower profile behind the edge that's doing it.

Personally I think a single edge bevel is not really optimal.
This forces the bevel behind actual cutting edge to follow that angle.

Many, many sharpening instructions and books including the "Razor Edge Book of Sharpening" by John Juranitch - (which has been a sort of "bible" of sharpening for many years) - recommend a secondary or "transition" bevel - that is a bevel between the blade face and the actual final cutting edge, that is thin/actute - then the final edge bevel can be put on that's more suitable for the steel in use.

See also this very useful site -
How to Sharpen a Knife by Dee Griffin, DVM University of Nebraska, Great Plains Veterinary Educational Center
(This is so good I saved a copy several times :o, just in case the page ever disappears.)

On knives I use I try to put a sort of semi convexed edge - but the final cutting micro edge bevel is still the old trusted 45deg inclusive (ie: I lightly finish on some crock sticks set at that angle before stropping) - they seem to work fine for my EDC -
Convexed Edge

--
Vincent
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edc.jpg


Ka-bar(a joke with my friend, I came into work with it attached to my thigh on the inside of my pants, I had cut a hole in the pocket so I could pull it out. I said to him "hey check this out" he didnt even know I had it)
Benchmade 43(home anodized blue)
SOG Twitch 2
Fenix P1D
Sureire 6p defender (upgraded lamp:380 lumens,gets really hot I can melt plastic with this spotlight)
Motorola krazor
wallet
key
 
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