ESEE 3 Glass Break Pommel Test

Great video. what i liked was that i saw you break the window with both left and right hands. was wondering if it was tricky doing with your weaker side. looks like it might need extra focus when using the weak side. cool.
 
Nice vid! I keep a Spyderco Assist in my car for such emergencies and it's always nice to see someone test the real capabilities:D
 
Thanks for all the kind words. I'm glad someone was interested in seeing us break stuff.

Yes, the glass did take a bit of force to get to brake. A little more than I thought, but still not real tough. Being inside the car sitting made it difficult. Not much room to swing. Strong or weak arm, the glass was easier to swing at when outside the car. And I might also add that if I followed through too much, the glass would be past the glove and in my arm/ elbow. So I was trying to control stop before I got to use some of my quick clot.

Glass does seem to brake easier when struck toward the edge. But inside the car it was pretty cramped. I'm not going to get into the science of this. I'll leave that for the scientist.

I have dug through a front windshield before. But like said, it is laminated with film in the center. They don't just come apart. A few pommel strikes would not get you out. With the glass tool and a strong foot, you could get out. But it is going to take a while. Before we were using an eight pound sledge so it wasn't too hard to make a hole. But know I do not want to have to crawl through that. You would get cut up so bad. The only way I would, is if imminent danger existed by staying in the vehicle.

If you ever really did need to use your ESEE 3, I would for sure use some type of protection against the glass. Wrap your strike hand in a shirt or something, to keep you from getting sliced and bleeding out before you exited the vehicle.
 
Your on the right track it not encased though. It is two layers of glass with a thin film layered in between them. All of it adhered together. The film keeps it from shattering. This is also why you can get a thin crack in a windshield only on the outside, and not feel it on the inside.

Thanks for un-backwardsing me, Decklin. When I sent it it looked wrong, but i just left it and went to sleep. Makes sense now. Sorry, had my bread in the middle and jelly on the outside. Backwards-ass sammich :D

-Nadz
 
Nice Job!

As stated above, the corners are the weak point on any of the windows. It is nice to test out the knife. I have seen several other brands with a glass braking pommel that will not break glass. Usually the metal is just to soft and will dull the point.

As a side note, car antennas and porcelain dust (from spark plugs) work great.
 
Something to note with all of the testing that has been done with the 3-MIL pommel on our knives: After a few breaks the pommel gets dull (it's heat treated at 57 RC like the rest of the knife) and once it get's dull it gets exponentially harder to break glass. So, if you use your 3-MIL or ESEE-5 to break glass, always sharpen the point back when you're finished. And as a side note, we have found the ESEE-5 to be a glass destroying SOB compared to the 3-MIL.

Clickbangbang: if you would like a 5 to do the same test, then email me a shipping address (jeff@eseeknives.com) and we will get a sample out to you.
 
Something to note with all of the testing that has been done with the 3-MIL pommel on our knives: After a few breaks the pommel gets dull (it's heat treated at 57 RC like the rest of the knife) and once it get's dull it gets exponentially harder to break glass. So, if you use your 3-MIL or ESEE-5 to break glass, always sharpen the point back when you're finished. And as a side note, we have found the ESEE-5 to be a glass destroying SOB compared to the 3-MIL.

Clickbangbang: if you would like a 5 to do the same test, then email me a shipping address (jeff@eseeknives.com) and we will get a sample out to you.

That's why I keep my ESEE 5 in my drivers side door along with a set of leather gloves in case I ever need to dig myself out of my truck.
 
"So, if you use your 3-MIL or ESEE-5 to break glass, always sharpen the point back when you're finished."

Jeff,
Is there a preferred method to do this?
 
"So, if you use your 3-MIL or ESEE-5 to break glass, always sharpen the point back when you're finished."

Jeff,
Is there a preferred method to do this?

I'm not Jeff, but just use a flat stone or the rods from the Sharpmaker. Lay each side of the glassbreaker on the stone and drag it across. Drag one side, then the next, then the next, then the last. Keep going around until it's how you want it.
 
Great video. I have seen a video of the 5 breaking glass effortlessly. It make sense given the size, weight of the 5, but the 3 did a nice job too. The blade went through the safety belt with no problem. No serrated edge needed, just the out of the box edge.
 
I've noticed that the glass breaker pommel on my RC-3 with linen Micarta looks a little different than the one on the canvas micarta Rc-3 MIL. Is that true to all linen micarta models? Also, how much difference will it make?
 
the glass breaker on the 3 mil is sharpened, the regular 3 isn't its still there just not sharp. the big difference breaking glass with the 5 is the weight of the knife is like hitting the glass with a sharp hammer.

good job on the video and testing click!

take it easy
cricket
 
Very nice video thanks for sharing. Although that particular 3-mil did not have serrations it made light work of that seat belt. I just ordered a 3-mil clip point :D
 
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