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ESEE - Extremely Disappointed with ESEE 6 and Customer Service
- Thread starter OutdoorSupreme
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- Sep 8, 2011
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- 2,693
After oiling it you stored it in the sheath for 5 weeks before pulling it out again. If there was moisture in the sheath that could have easily caused the rust in that amount of time.
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- Feb 21, 2009
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I've never had my Beckers or Condors rust like the OP is talking about, and I almost never oil them (though living in Las Vegas probably helps). But I do agree with the OP about the ESEE guys being jackasses. Some people might like their attitude, praising it as blunt and straightforward, but I feel like they're just too lazy and rude not to be pricks to their customers.
Hey OutdoorSupreme, chalk this up as a learning experience. Rust is never spontaneous. As pointed out, 1095 will rust far more readily than other steels, which is why the ESEE warranty is so clear about that limitation.
You're not the first to make this complaint by the way, especially with regard to the etching -- put "esee rust" in a youtube search and you'll find some videos that mirror your experience. Nevertheless, rust is not considered a failure of any knife made with 1095.
And welcome to BF!
You're not the first to make this complaint by the way, especially with regard to the etching -- put "esee rust" in a youtube search and you'll find some videos that mirror your experience. Nevertheless, rust is not considered a failure of any knife made with 1095.
And welcome to BF!
I really don't think it's the knife that's useless...
I can't speak to the ESEE customer service as I've never had the need to contact them, but I am afraid that your expressed opinion--that a knife is no longer any good in the outdoors because some rust formed on the edge--betrays such a lack of understanding of tools that you're going to have an extraordinarily tough time finding any knife that satisfies you if you actually use it, at least until you get a great deal more experience under your belt. Sailors used non-stainless knives, saws and axes for centuries in saltwater environments and, I promise you, didn't chuck them overboard as "useless" when iron oxide formed. The pioneers who settled the world never enjoyed "stainless" steel, nor did they have guided sharpeners to maintain them with. The amount of edge degradation sustained from the type of corrosion you describe probably left the knife sharper than any of the stone/bronze/iron tools man used to hunt, kill, make fires, and skin animals for tens of thousands of years, and probably could be entirely corrected (functionally, if not cosmetically) with one swipe per side on any kind of knife sharpener, the bottom of a coffee cup, or maybe three swipes per side on an obliging field stone. If you can't survive in the wild with a knife with a rusted edge, then I'm going to make the prediction that you can't survive in the wild, period, and probably shouldn't try yet without supervision.
Something else to consider---if you didn't clean the edge of vegetable matter (vine guts) or whatever else you cut with it, and just put oil on top of it, it (the oil) couldn't protect the edge. That's like putting powder on a baby's butt without wiping the poop off first. Not saying this is definitely what happened in your case, but in this era when so many are oblivious to the need to prep surfaces before finishing, painting, gluing, etc., I don't even expect most people to know how to oil things. Alcohol wipes work great. Out in the field, dirt makes for a wonderful cleaner---don't stab the ground, but take a handful of dirt (not mud) and clean any blood, plant matter, etc. off of your edge by gently swiping dirt over and off of (NOT along or into) your edge. Once any gooey/sticky stuff is gone, a few swipes on your pant leg will knock the dirt off, and then if you feel like you absolutely have to oil it, you can.
There is sufficient knowledge accumulated on these various forums to teach you all there is to know about ANYTHING knife related. I would, whether or not you decide to go all-stainless from this moment on, spend a LOT more time reading, and learning how to use your tools, especially if you're going to pay for good ones. Right now, the indignation seems to vastly outweigh the intuition, and good intuition derives largely from experience.
I can't speak to the ESEE customer service as I've never had the need to contact them, but I am afraid that your expressed opinion--that a knife is no longer any good in the outdoors because some rust formed on the edge--betrays such a lack of understanding of tools that you're going to have an extraordinarily tough time finding any knife that satisfies you if you actually use it, at least until you get a great deal more experience under your belt. Sailors used non-stainless knives, saws and axes for centuries in saltwater environments and, I promise you, didn't chuck them overboard as "useless" when iron oxide formed. The pioneers who settled the world never enjoyed "stainless" steel, nor did they have guided sharpeners to maintain them with. The amount of edge degradation sustained from the type of corrosion you describe probably left the knife sharper than any of the stone/bronze/iron tools man used to hunt, kill, make fires, and skin animals for tens of thousands of years, and probably could be entirely corrected (functionally, if not cosmetically) with one swipe per side on any kind of knife sharpener, the bottom of a coffee cup, or maybe three swipes per side on an obliging field stone. If you can't survive in the wild with a knife with a rusted edge, then I'm going to make the prediction that you can't survive in the wild, period, and probably shouldn't try yet without supervision.
Something else to consider---if you didn't clean the edge of vegetable matter (vine guts) or whatever else you cut with it, and just put oil on top of it, it (the oil) couldn't protect the edge. That's like putting powder on a baby's butt without wiping the poop off first. Not saying this is definitely what happened in your case, but in this era when so many are oblivious to the need to prep surfaces before finishing, painting, gluing, etc., I don't even expect most people to know how to oil things. Alcohol wipes work great. Out in the field, dirt makes for a wonderful cleaner---don't stab the ground, but take a handful of dirt (not mud) and clean any blood, plant matter, etc. off of your edge by gently swiping dirt over and off of (NOT along or into) your edge. Once any gooey/sticky stuff is gone, a few swipes on your pant leg will knock the dirt off, and then if you feel like you absolutely have to oil it, you can.
There is sufficient knowledge accumulated on these various forums to teach you all there is to know about ANYTHING knife related. I would, whether or not you decide to go all-stainless from this moment on, spend a LOT more time reading, and learning how to use your tools, especially if you're going to pay for good ones. Right now, the indignation seems to vastly outweigh the intuition, and good intuition derives largely from experience.
Wow! Great first post :thumbup:
So you mean to tell me a high carbon steel knife rusted? On the edge no less? My goodness the world is upside down.
Seriously though. Did you sharpen it? If so that rust would have come right off. Did you use it? If so that rust would have come right off. Esee is better off that you not own any of there products anymore. Hell, the next thing you might have been throwing the damn knife. And please don't review the S1 as this thread proves you have zero credibility. Maybe go back to being a lurker as you clearly learned nothing from your previous lurking.
So you mean to tell me a high carbon steel knife rusted? On the edge no less? My goodness the world is upside down.
Seriously though. Did you sharpen it? If so that rust would have come right off. Did you use it? If so that rust would have come right off. Esee is better off that you not own any of there products anymore. Hell, the next thing you might have been throwing the damn knife. And please don't review the S1 as this thread proves you have zero credibility. Maybe go back to being a lurker as you clearly learned nothing from your previous lurking.
I hadn't had any issues with rust on my esse products. In fact I only had issues with one knife in my whole life. I think it was 1095 pocket knife highly polished blade. It rusted spotted red black pits just looking at it. No matter what I did, never even used it, rusted just stored in collection. I suspected improper heat treatment may have been a factor cause I'd never experienced anything like it. In any case sounds like your the type person that would be best served going stainless
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2008
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- 2,142
Use it and it wont be an issue. Too many knife owners just sit and admire their blades. Learn to maintain your steel.
It didn't, by any chance, have celluloid scales, did it? Or stored near another knife with them? Deteriorating celluloid has destroyed a lot of fine knives over the years---even stainless isn't entirely safe from it.
Well, I am a big fan of 1095. I've never had any major rust issues. I wipe down my beckers and esee after use, and sometimes oil them (though not as often as I probably should). Usually no rust issues at all. A few times there has been a little rust coloration on the cutting edge, but general use tends to fix that problem quite quickly. I think the OP probably should have given the knife more of a chance before over reacting.
I'm sure Mike gets many of these messages and has every right to be frustrated with them. However, for someone in a position of customer service, he may have been more friendly. There are other ways to make his point than what I thought were borderline impolite responses (even if he was right). Impressions matter.
After reading the response, if I ever have an issue with my izula I will likely skip contacting esee. I'd rather just buy a knew one than risk a demeaning reply (even if deserved).
I'm sure Mike gets many of these messages and has every right to be frustrated with them. However, for someone in a position of customer service, he may have been more friendly. There are other ways to make his point than what I thought were borderline impolite responses (even if he was right). Impressions matter.
After reading the response, if I ever have an issue with my izula I will likely skip contacting esee. I'd rather just buy a knew one than risk a demeaning reply (even if deserved).
Rust, schmust...
It comes with the territory on ANY carbon steel object. It is no reason to return a knife, or give a bad review of a knife, or demand satisfaction from the company owner.
Know what it is? A challenge from the knife. Use it, and it won't rust. There is not one single doubt in my mind that what you saw on your edge was merely surface discoloration. It takes a lot of abuse and neglect to form actual deep, pitting, damaging, furry RUST. You no doubt saw some surface speckles and had a fit.
I have no problem with what Mike said to you. You came across in the correspondence much worse than he did.
Welcome to the forums!
It comes with the territory on ANY carbon steel object. It is no reason to return a knife, or give a bad review of a knife, or demand satisfaction from the company owner.
Know what it is? A challenge from the knife. Use it, and it won't rust. There is not one single doubt in my mind that what you saw on your edge was merely surface discoloration. It takes a lot of abuse and neglect to form actual deep, pitting, damaging, furry RUST. You no doubt saw some surface speckles and had a fit.
I have no problem with what Mike said to you. You came across in the correspondence much worse than he did.
Welcome to the forums!
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- Nov 5, 2014
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- 674
Just the other day I was using my Izula 2 for some kitchen work and after cleaning it and drying it thoroughly, at least I thought I did, the knife had a nice patina on the blade the next day which just stropped right out in a pass or two. It happens due to various factors, as everyone has already said, and comes off easily. It happens, sometimes even when you think you think you've cleaned and stored a blade properly, even the tiniest bit of water that may remain on the blade near the handle can create and environment that allows for rust once the knife is put back in the sheath. I for one, like the way ESEE handles things, their bluntness is deserved especially when they have people breaking their knives on purpose and know they can just get new ones no questions. Hell just look at their warranty page with their hall of shame. They don't coddle you as they offer you a crazy good warranty, but expect you to understand the tool you are working with which is more than reasonable.
I understand the inherent laughs at the post, but should we really just resort berating the OP? He could be new to all this as someone mentioned, and we've all needed a little guidance in things. You would think that as a COMMUNITY we would be more welcoming to encourage others to be here, and yes maybe laugh a little (we should all be able to laugh at ourselves), but explain it in not so insulting terms maybe? Yes, maybe he should have researched things a bit more, that's not in question as the information is out there, but there is a way to relay information that doesn't involve just call someone stupid or incompetent. This constantly being referred to as the Bladeforums community, to anyone who is considering spending money on a membership to get more involved in this wonderful world we all enjoy, we really, as a community, just come off as jerks and pretty closed off.
I understand the inherent laughs at the post, but should we really just resort berating the OP? He could be new to all this as someone mentioned, and we've all needed a little guidance in things. You would think that as a COMMUNITY we would be more welcoming to encourage others to be here, and yes maybe laugh a little (we should all be able to laugh at ourselves), but explain it in not so insulting terms maybe? Yes, maybe he should have researched things a bit more, that's not in question as the information is out there, but there is a way to relay information that doesn't involve just call someone stupid or incompetent. This constantly being referred to as the Bladeforums community, to anyone who is considering spending money on a membership to get more involved in this wonderful world we all enjoy, we really, as a community, just come off as jerks and pretty closed off.
I'm in agreement with these guys ^
You didn't know any better, and that's fine. Might want to do some reading or ask around for advice prior to trying to put someone on blast when you're in the wrong.
Do yourself a favor, keep the ESEE, sharpen the rust off when it forms, and use the hell out of it. It's a fine knife. A little patina just adds character.
I noticed this as well. He joined just to bash the company. ALL knives within this price point as well as higher end knives will rust. This is just a fact of life. If you dont like rust you should purchase stainless blades, and those will also still rust. I think the only purpose this post served was to thoroughly embarass the OP, and that is even if he cares enough about that. It's pretty clear as to why he joined bladeforums. Also, your choice in oil was poor..... mineral oil? Should have used a rust preventative like frog lube or a water displacer like wd40.
I don't care if it's the OP's 1st post. That is terrible customer service. Actually, it's more like intentionally mean spirited customer service. It actually doesn't surprise me though. I've spent a good deal of time in The IF/Rexburg area and the locals do seem to have a holier than though attitude. Not my favorite part of Idaho.
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