Bruce
Not just workmanship, but engineering - so cool.
I just had a look at your deadwood photo on your website.
I like this one better than Deadwood.
As far as I can tell, the cutout area around the nipple is all the way across the bottom on this one. The knife liners on Deadwood didn't match the pistol frame on the bottom.
I also like what you did on the top left side of this one, where you matched the scallop on the barrel to the top line of the blade. .
The lines seem to flow better.
I totally understand your method of modular construction. Its how I think too. When fitting and working on it, you can always chuck it and redo that one piece.
BUT
I wonder if you could reduce the number of VISIBLE screw heads.
Maybe with some dovetails, hidden pins, soldering, or whatever tricks you may have.
Especially beside all that nice engraving and dark blue steel, they really pop out at me.
Perhaps using dark screws, or heat coloring the nickel plated screw to match the blued steel?
Especially in the Deadwood photo on your website, what stands out for me is that, the screw heads dont line up. Not saying that is easy
Oh and I havent seen it asked yet
How much $?
Thanks Steve for the close look and input. I dont know anybody making these so any advice from a trained eye is helpful. If you could have a close look at "War and Peace" compared to "Deadwood" I believe you can see that each has improved trememdously.
To marry a gun and a knife there will be compromises to both in the engineering, constuction and finish appearances. Each gun/knife combo is a one of a kind because there is so much room for improvement on the next. I love gadgets and just cant stop making these however I have an order for a pistol and a matching bowie. On that set I plan to make the pistol look, feel and shoot as good as I am able in this stage of my skills.
Indexing the screw slots is an art in itself. The real trouble is when it gets disassembled and they dont go back in the same holes the slots are mismatched and the hieghts are different. Very frustrating to reassemble. Plus there is some fudging because some are tighter than other all for the sake of lining them up for looks. On the "all out show piece" that will never get shot again I say go for it but my guns are made to use and take down. All my screws are the same length on each panel and can be mixed up. The counterbores are the same depth so some wont stand taller than others.
As for reducing the number of screws showing I think just proper placement is very important. To me a visible screw can be removed easy but a tricky hidden mechanism requires an expert to remove or else a good prybar. I want my customer to be able to take these apart. Besides its challenging enough right now just making these. Give me a couple more years and see if I can add some tricks.
The size and color of the screws is something not everybody will agree on. Also the liners are smooth. Some want file work and anodizing on everything. I think there needs to be some stopping point on embellishments. I could file each screw head and liner and heat color them but what about contrast? Why do we try so hard for damascus to have blacks and whites? Contrast.
I love weddings. The bride and groom never wear the same colors. Its a beautiful thing. The colors, black, silver and gold never look bad together for me.
The damascus blade is silver and bright silver as are the titanium liners and backbar. The screws match them. If truth be known the really fine guns are not blued at all. They are grey "French Grey" to show the details of the engraving. There is gold added but it doesnt stand out well. My pistol/dagger is going to be engraved and french greyed. Im anxous to see how it looks.
Price? Im not trying to sell anything here. You guys are my friends and I enjoy talking to you. If you are interested pm me. This one is a commissioned piece.
Thanks for letting me open up abit.
:thumbup::thumbup:
Absolutely amazing!
Heres the Barnes and Noble link: 