- Joined
- Jan 6, 2007
- Messages
- 911
For what it's worth, she called the tests idiotic. Not Noss4. She knows better than that.
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Fallkniven destruction test!!!
- Thread starter Nimravus Nut
- Start date
For what it's worth, she called the tests idiotic. Not Noss4. She knows better than that.
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2003
- Messages
- 202
point taken. Still, that thing is quite small, i don't think that little thing can lift up a 150lb. cabinet. I'm a cabinet installer, when i really need something to pry when my prybar is out of reach I'll still reach for my 9" nimravus. Prying a 150lb. cabinet is something my multitool can't even perform.
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2006
- Messages
- 3,910
As long as Noss is not breakng my knies I say more power to him. 
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2005
- Messages
- 8,161
Noss4 can break his own knives all day long....I personally dont care, I do find them interesting to watch, sometimes comical. If you know you need to pry cabinets all day long why not carry a small prybar and a multi-tool? What cutting tasks does your Nimravus perform that your multitool cannot (while on the job)? I am curious as to whether you find an advantage to having one tool that does the job its intended for while substituting for another its not, instead of having two tools for the jobs they are made for. Do you find the nimravus more suitable than a prybar because of its size, weight and "dual purpose". Have you had any edge damage from pyring?
These are serious questions as you probably do alot of prying with your Nimravus and I am curious. I usally have two tools that do the jobs they were designed for(I understand we dont always) but if in your job you know what you'll need I am curious as to why have a knife of that size in which you(may or may not) worry about chipping the edge on nails and what not, and it having a sharp tip. I would thing a prybar would also be safer in case you slipped.
This is not meant to be a slurry of criticizm but rather I would like your insite because I dont use my knife as a "jack of all trades" tool.
These are serious questions as you probably do alot of prying with your Nimravus and I am curious. I usally have two tools that do the jobs they were designed for(I understand we dont always) but if in your job you know what you'll need I am curious as to why have a knife of that size in which you(may or may not) worry about chipping the edge on nails and what not, and it having a sharp tip. I would thing a prybar would also be safer in case you slipped.
This is not meant to be a slurry of criticizm but rather I would like your insite because I dont use my knife as a "jack of all trades" tool.
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2003
- Messages
- 202
Nimravus or any knives around that size, are very flexible for my use on the job. The cabinets come in cardboard edge protectors with cellophane wrapping which is a little tough to cut, and I do need a knife with a significant amount of belly to cut thru 20~30 of those packages, which a 2.5" blade on the multi-tool seems a bit lacking. Yes, the tip on the nim is chipped but i don't use the tip much anyways. I don't use the nim to do prying all day, just in those times when I'm stuck on the ladder or when my prybar is doing the prying and the knife is supplementing to get the cabinet straight. There are also times when I'm doing demo on old cabinets when there is old, heavy caulking on the wall and the wall can't be damaged, that's when a good knife shines in cutting when small razor knives wouldn't hold. Also, it's faster to pull out a sheath knife than a multi-tool (I have an old Gerber, the blade is inside the handle, I have to pull out the plier.. open the plier.. and pull the blade out.. and do the reverse when I'm done P.I.T.A.). Besides, it's cooler to pull out a knife than a prybar in front of a sheeple client.
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2005
- Messages
- 8,161
Nimravus or any knives around that size, are very flexible for my use on the job. The cabinets come in cardboard edge protectors with cellophane wrapping which is a little tough to cut, and I do need a knife with a significant amount of belly to cut thru 20~30 of those packages, which a 2.5" blade on the multi-tool seems a bit lacking. Yes, the tip on the nim is chipped but i don't use the tip much anyways. I don't use the nim to do prying all day, just in those times when I'm stuck on the ladder or when my prybar is doing the prying and the knife is supplementing to get the cabinet straight. There are also times when I'm doing demo on old cabinets when there is old, heavy caulking on the wall and the wall can't be damaged, that's when a good knife shines in cutting when small razor knives wouldn't hold. Also, it's faster to pull out a sheath knife than a multi-tool (I have an old Gerber, the blade is inside the handle, I have to pull out the plier.. open the plier.. and pull the blade out.. and do the reverse when I'm done P.I.T.A.). Besides, it's cooler to pull out a knife than a prybar in front of a sheeple client.
Cool, I can understand why you would opt for knife. Have you considered something like a Scrapper S6? It is a bit thicker and is made from Sr77 which is much more of an impact steel and tends to roll the edge rather than chip, you might fair better with something that has a steel like that in it.
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2003
- Messages
- 202
I tend to lean toward stainless, because I don't like the looks of rusty carbon after a day's work. The only carbon knives in my stash is three Ontario 12" machete and a Becker K&T Magnum Camp and countless stainless knives for EDCing. Hmmm...the Dog Father sure looks interesting...
Cheers,
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2003
- Messages
- 3,154
If your're thinking about a Dog Father, you've got to see the photos in a thread started by Jerry Busse:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=452588
Yeah, I'd say it might stand up to a little prying.
The only knife I've done heavy prying with is a Ranger RD-7. It's 1/4" 5160 spring steel, so I wasn't worried.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=452588
Yeah, I'd say it might stand up to a little prying.
The only knife I've done heavy prying with is a Ranger RD-7. It's 1/4" 5160 spring steel, so I wasn't worried.
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2006
- Messages
- 2,090
Sorry, but I agree with TKC. Other than amusement, and I do agree that watching a grown man in a mask stab a poor defensless chair is kind of fun, it does not really prove anything. When was tha last time you were attacked by a chair, when was the last time you trimmed a concrete block with a knife? I can kill any knife ever made, no problem, but what does that prove other than that breaking things can be fun???? Steven
What kind of a question is that? It proves that some knives break a hell of a lot easier than others. Sure, that's obvious, but not everyone knows that.
- Joined
- Sep 27, 1999
- Messages
- 3,164
I don't see anyone can say that what they do is useless. Even if it is JUST psychological confirmation, thse tests add to my confidence in certain knives which can be relied upon in an emergency to do something which it is not meant to do.
It is important knowledge for certain knives.
It is not like he is taking a filet knife and hitting it with a sledge hammer. He is takes survival-combat type knives and tests them with exteme abuse. The point is if they can make it past a certain point, you got to have confidence in them.
It is important knowledge for certain knives.
It is not like he is taking a filet knife and hitting it with a sledge hammer. He is takes survival-combat type knives and tests them with exteme abuse. The point is if they can make it past a certain point, you got to have confidence in them.
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2005
- Messages
- 8,161
The bushman DaveH, yup thats one where I was actually glad he did the test and I went and bought one because of it. I would not have thought it would have performed that well but it did.
I agree. Information comes in various forms. This helps me to form a more complete picture of the product. I don't post much, but I check this forum everyday. The insight offered by you folks serves as a counterpoint to the manufacturer claims. I am very happy with knife purchases I've made based on information from this excellent forum.
I don't think this has been mentioned yet. A lot of the "testing" was for toughness of a blade. Toughness tends to be mutally exclusive with hardness. So a tough i.e., malleable blade is almost by definition soft. So yeah, a softer blade with do better on taking abuse without breaking in two. (see the Bushman). But will it hold an edge?
One test I would like to see is to clamp a blade in a vice and see how far it will bend and still return true. THAT will tell you something about the quality of the blade. And you can quantify that in degrees of bend. Chopping up a chair doesn't really get us there.
All that said, I appreciate the effort. Perhaps the testing will evolve over time and allow more insight into the quality of the blades.
One test I would like to see is to clamp a blade in a vice and see how far it will bend and still return true. THAT will tell you something about the quality of the blade. And you can quantify that in degrees of bend. Chopping up a chair doesn't really get us there.
All that said, I appreciate the effort. Perhaps the testing will evolve over time and allow more insight into the quality of the blades.
Slack: the sheet metal tests I do Is to see how well the tip can penetrate into a hard surface. On the A1 I encountered chipping during this that I did not encounter on the other knives. and the chipping continued on the concrete. The only other knife this happened on was the Becker BK9 it chipped badly and broke the next few swings. The Becker was very brittle.
The good thing about the A1 is the chipping stopped and did not contribute to a full structural failure as with the Becker.
The chair just happened to be made out of some heavy sheet metal so this is what I used in some of the past tests. The chair seems to get a lot of comments.
I would like to do the test you recommended. Sometimes my tests are different because I can only afford one knife to test. So I like to try some different things with some different designs and I have to try and structure the tests to get as much testing as I can out of a single blade because I can not go out and just buy one more.
I'm trying to always improve the tests. Nothing is set in stone. some of what you see and most of the knives selected in the tests is the result of the knife communities suggestions and feedback.
The good thing about the A1 is the chipping stopped and did not contribute to a full structural failure as with the Becker.
The chair just happened to be made out of some heavy sheet metal so this is what I used in some of the past tests. The chair seems to get a lot of comments.
I would like to do the test you recommended. Sometimes my tests are different because I can only afford one knife to test. So I like to try some different things with some different designs and I have to try and structure the tests to get as much testing as I can out of a single blade because I can not go out and just buy one more.
I'm trying to always improve the tests. Nothing is set in stone. some of what you see and most of the knives selected in the tests is the result of the knife communities suggestions and feedback.
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2003
- Messages
- 202
As Slack pointed out that soft means malluable and hard usually ends up brittle, that is the usual assumption by current scientific means. But what if... you combine soft and hard together? In the case of SOG Fusion it is a softer alloy than VG-10 (when beating both knives with solid core, at least they will break with the same force or most of us would think Vg-10 will break first), but with the same 420 cased around that same VG-10 core the laminate became two or three times as strong! And it is done only with tests that breaks the envelope and normal means of paper science. You will never know the reliability of the knife unless it is truly tested to its breaking point.
Again, to those who think these tests are silly, if you were to hand a knife to a soldier in Iraq which knife would you give him/her; the SOG, the Nighthawk, or the Fallkniven, knowing the knife you give will decide they live or die!
Again, to those who think these tests are silly, if you were to hand a knife to a soldier in Iraq which knife would you give him/her; the SOG, the Nighthawk, or the Fallkniven, knowing the knife you give will decide they live or die!
Nimravus Nut: There was some debate about the VG-10 core breaking first but the way I see this issue is the VG-10 core is the cutting edge so it should be protected from breaking. After I broke the outer layer at this point I could have ground a working edge back into the blade. Not an edge as good as the original but one that would cut.
If the core would have broken first and possibly fragmented I would not have been able to put an edge back on it at all. I feel the lamination did it's job and
sacrificed itself for the benefit of the core.
Yes..in order to find the breaking point you have to break it.
If the core would have broken first and possibly fragmented I would not have been able to put an edge back on it at all. I feel the lamination did it's job and
sacrificed itself for the benefit of the core.
Yes..in order to find the breaking point you have to break it.
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2003
- Messages
- 202
If your're thinking about a Dog Father, you've got to see the photos in a thread started by Jerry Busse:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=452588
Yeah, I'd say it might stand up to a little prying.
The only knife I've done heavy prying with is a Ranger RD-7. It's 1/4" 5160 spring steel, so I wasn't worried.
Holy
, where did you get those pictures, man that thing is brutal tough!!!That's why hard evidence and pictures still beats a thousand words. Anyone or any member here can back up their trusted knives with words and say that's not what a knife is designed for when it failed a simple prying job, but there are people out there who do need sharpened prybars.
TKC and Oldrifleman: it's not about being attacked by a chair that you have to prove the knife is tougher. Do u guys know soldiers (especially snipers) were trained to use their knives to punch holes in walls for snipping points? Also, there was a case when a camper's trusted CS Recon Scout failed in batoning a piece of log? The knife broke because it was an unproven knife. If it was torture tested, he would have known its weak point and used an axe instead, but without knowing the weak point in the knife he did not bring a more suitable knife or an axe because he only relied on Cold Steel's marketing claims.
Link to the broken CS Recon Scout:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=328256&highlight=stress+srk