February 2022 Buck of the Month - 891, GCK Spear Point, 3V, Black G10

Odd to hear about the tight scabbards on these. Yes, when I first got my GCKs the scabbards were tight - they're not like that any more, and no heat gun was needed.

First, loosen the tension screws - don't let them fall out, but loosen them.

Next, WORK THE SCABBARD. That plastic scabbard will wear down as you use it.

Finally, you need to press on the scabbard, not just pull on the knife. The Gideon's Tactical Guy kind of shows you this. He might discuss it in more detail, but I don't have the time to re-watch that entire presentation right now. If he doesn't discuss it, maybe it was the fellow that reviewed the tanto version that talks about pressing on the scabbard. Regardless, the video example of the spearpoint knife:


...Nothing goofy or extreme is needed to make the scabbard work. It works very well. My only other kydex scabbard was for a Ka-Bar 8" tanto, and the GCK scabbard and suspension are WAY better. There is no rattle in the latter, while the Ka-Bar - while cool and easy to use - was pretty rattly. I like this scabbard because the knife only comes out when you want it to come out. The world is full of scabbards in which relying on a strap or flap is mandatory, but fortunately the current generation of Buck tactical scabbards is not in that camp! As they say, "it's a feature."

TLDR: learn how to use the scabbard and fidgit with it as well. The more you handle the knife, the more you will like it. It is not a perfect knife but it is an excellent one. I'm sorry to hear about all of the sharpening mishaps as of late. Maybe Buck is undergoing a cutler crisis, kind of like my experience with Ontario knives from a few years ago? My experience sharpening 5160 on sword blades tells me it is a challenge, but at least there's only 5-odd inches of blade here as opposed to 30 to 35 inches. If you notify Buck that you are not happy with the edge - just like I pestered Ontario back in the day - rest assured they will fix it for you.
 
Thaeris said:
First, loosen the tension screws - don't let them fall out, but loosen them.

Next, WORK THE SCABBARD. That plastic scabbard will wear down as you use it.
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Thanks, I found this out after several trials with the heat gun. Especially pressing on the scabbard using my thumb :thumbsup:
 
Nice.

Another set of thoughts to consider on the GCK, and might be worth Buck's attention if they ever introduce an updated model of the knife:

1. Hammering is not something the GCK should be used for. Granted, it's not something any knife should be used for in normal circumstances. So, while striking a soft target with the end of the knife will give a good impact, a hard target could deform the lanyard hole. Potential solution: move the lanyard hole within the area of the handle scales. Maybe both extend the scales, while moving the hole upwards, with just enough "meat" so that deformation of the parts is unlikely.

2. Extend the lower guard and/or modify its shape, so slipping onto the blade is less likely in the thrust. Notes: the problem is you might not be able to have everything! Would probably need a lot of testing to verify that changes to this part of the handle would not negatively effect other aspects of use.

3. Add jimping on the spine for the thumb. Notes: texture on the handle is excellent, so lack of jimping is not a deal-breaker. However, it might be a welcome addition for some users.

...That's really most of it. Only other thing I could add is that... some sort of soft liner inside of the scabbard might allow for a truly silent draw, which is something end users can make for themselves if their predicament demanded such a feature. Other than that, if it's not clear from my ranting, I think the spearpoint GCK is one of the finest fixed-blade knives I've ever owned, and it's one where I just can't complain about it. It's not perfect for everything, but it probably can do just about everything you ask it to. The above points are merely suggestions, not demands. I think the person or people that designed this thing were brilliant, and I want to thank them for this design. Awesome.
 
I'm really surprised to see all the posts about difficulty removing from the sheath. It is hard if I just pull on it, of course. But like so many others that I consider "thumb release" sheaths, when I press down with my thumb on the kydex, directly above the tension screw, at the same time while I am pulling up on the scales - easy money, comes right out! Is mine the exception? or is this just not how most people draw from a sheath? I actually appreciate the 'thumb release' sheaths because they provide great retention and are easy to access with the thumb press technique. I understand of course those who have physical limitations, arthritis, etc. may have a totally different experience, and I wish that were not so.

I won the sharpness lottery with mine, too. I did the paper shaving test with it when I got it, and it passed, but when I saw the comments here about dull blades and mediocre sharpness, I went back and tried it on newsprint. Now I know that it's sharper than the vast majority of new knives that I purchase. It slices thru newsprint like it was butter.

I'm a very happy camper, I love mine! The hardest part for me was deciding whether to keep it pristine as a collector piece, or to beat the heck out of it camping and in the woods. For now, I'm keeping it safely stored away, because I've got several good fixed blade users already seeing work outside.
 
rje58 said:
I'm really surprised to see all the posts about difficulty removing from the sheath. It is hard if I just pull on it, of course. But like so many others that I consider "thumb release" sheaths, when I press down with my thumb on the kydex, directly above the tension screw, at the same time while I am pulling up on the scales - easy money, comes right out! Is mine the exception? or is this just not how most people draw from a sheath? I actually appreciate the 'thumb release' sheaths because they provide great retention and are easy to access with the thumb press technique. I understand of course those who have physical limitations, arthritis, etc. may have a totally different experience, and I wish that were not so.

I won the sharpness lottery with mine, too. I did the paper shaving test with it when I got it, and it passed, but when I saw the comments here about dull blades and mediocre sharpness, I went back and tried it on newsprint. Now I know that it's sharper than the vast majority of new knives that I purchase. It slices thru newsprint like it was butter.

I'm a very happy camper, I love mine! The hardest part for me was deciding whether to keep it pristine as a collector piece, or to beat the heck out of it camping and in the woods. For now, I'm keeping it safely stored away, because I've got several good fixed blade users already seeing work outside.
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I think it varies just like 110s can vary in how they open and close.

I bought 2 of the BOTM and one comes out of the sheath easily using the method you describe. The other one I find shavings of the polypropylene sheath on the G10 handle once I finally get it removed. This is after I loosened the tension screws on the sheath. I can see there is a difference in each sheath molding between the easy one and the hard one at the point where it hangs. If I swap knives, I get the same results for each sheath.
 
Your Name Goes Here said:
C&C has the 891 Sniper Grey Ground Combat Knife (GCK) Spear Point for $144. I believe C&C is a supporting dealer (they are meantioned often enough). So if you missed this version the first time around (now discontinued) - this version is the 5160 steel. Not 3V steel.
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I finally gave in! I saw your post last week and it has been weighing on me ever since. That, plus everyone's pictures and descriptions of the BOTM. I have one on order!

As of now, C&C shows 5 left if anyone is interested. (I have been nervously watching the available number dwindle the whole time...)
 
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Tecate said:
I think it varies just like 110s can vary in how they open and close.

I bought 2 of the BOTM and one comes out of the sheath easily using the method you describe. The other one I find shavings of the polypropylene sheath on the G10 handle once I finally get it removed. This is after I loosened the tension screws on the sheath. I can see there is a difference in each sheath molding between the easy one and the hard one at the point where it hangs. If I swap knives, I get the same results for each sheath.
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Bummer! I'm sorry to hear that. I got lucky - I wish everyone did.
 
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