Fiddleback ANYDAY Pocket Dump....Updated title

OK, as I probably revealed by my above stuff, Im a flashlight dummy. You guys did get me to buy the AAA copper Maratac. Initially it seemed a little lacking (as in not much for the $) but walking down the block after dark with it and my P2X Fury and shining these lights up in to dark alleyways and in my unlighted garage.... well I began to see the light. Plus the copper is cool.

But Triple T help please. Would you also be advising not to run the 2 x123 battery option in those Olight S2-U Batons and stick with the with the 1 x 18650? Is this AW protection you describe something that comes there? Or might you be with Thurin, and advising that the Olight S-1 with 1 x 123A may be the way to go??
 
OK, as I probably revealed by my above stuff, Im a flashlight dummy. You guys did get me to buy the AAA copper Maratac. Initially it seemed a little lacking (as in not much for the $) but walking down the block after dark with it and my P2X Fury and shining these lights up in to dark alleyways and in my unlighted garage.... well I began to see the light. Plus the copper is cool.

But Triple T help please. Would you also be advising not to run the 2 x123 battery option in those Olight S2-U Batons and stick with the with the 1 x 18650? Is this AW protection you describe something that comes there? Or might you be with Thurin, and advising that the Olight S-1 with 1 x 123A may be the way to go??

Hey Tom,

Don't take my advice of the S1 as coming from a 2 battery vs 1 battery thing. That was in relation to him looking for something smaller than a 2xCR123A light. The S2 would be similar in size to the one that's too big for his needs.

That being said, I'd recommend a 18650 over 2xCR123A because it'll last longer and is rechargeable. You can get RCR123A but some lights will not support them.
 
In most CR123 lights that take 2, 17670 will be a closer fit. 18650 is close in height but not in width. So, if the light barrel is wide enough to take an 18650, it would certainly be a safer option. It would be safer for two reasons:

1. The presence of 1 lion battery instead of 2 prevents the reverse charge scenario

2. Actually cr123a is still lithium metal instead of lithium ion, so they are inherently more unstable due to chemical properties

That said, a single cr123a of US manufacture with protection circuits are a pretty good bet. Like the ones from Surefire. But you still wouldn't want to double them up.

So when you have the 2X123A option, either a single 17670 or a single 18650 should be comparable. The AW indication is a branded modification that a company puts on these batteries which is an additional circuit that adds safety features, but it also adds micrometers of width.

So an AW 17670 and an AW 18650 are the safest you are going to get in this class of battery, but a 17670 or 18650 without the AW modification is certainly a much better option than stacking CR123's of any variety.

The light doesn't know the difference. The issues are fit and voltage. If the battery fits and it is within the same operational voltage range then you are good to go.

What i would do is download the manual for the light you want to purchase or own, and see what the voltage range is for the functions of the light. If the battery you wish to replace is also within that voltage range, then it will be comparable electrically. The fit will vary. I only have experience personally doing this with 3 lights from 4 sevens. In the lights I have worked with, unless the light was specifically branded for 18650, that battery was too wide to accommodate the barrel. The 17670 even with an AW circuit was compatible.
 
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I love my AAA Martac. I use the glow diffuser all the time. Just to throw some gas on the fire they just came out with a Ti version.

60f7e437845fd3534742122fdedcd9ab.jpg



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In most CR123 lights that take 2, 17670 will be a closer fit. 18650 is close in height but not in width. So, if the light barrel is wide enough to take an 18650, it would certainly be a safer option. It would be safer for two reasons:

1. The presence of 1 lion battery instead of 2 prevents the reverse charge scenario

2. Actually cr123a is still lithium metal instead of lithium ion, so they are inherently more unstable due to chemical properties

That said, a single cr123a of US manufacture with protection circuits are a pretty good bet. Like the ones from Surefire. But you still wouldn't want to double them up.

So when you have the 2X123A option, either a single 17670 or a single 18650 should be comparable. The AW indication is a branded modification that a company puts on these batteries which is an additional circuit that adds safety features, but it also adds micrometers of width.

So an AW 17670 and an AW 18650 are the safest you are going to get in this class of battery, but a 17670 or 18650 without the AW modification is certainly a much better option than stacking CR123's of any variety.

The light doesn't know the difference. The issues are fit and voltage. If the battery fits and it is within the same operational voltage range then you are good to go.

What i would do is download the manual for the light you want to purchase or own, and see what the voltage range is for the functions of the light. If the battery you wish to replace is also within that voltage range, then it will be comparable electrically. The fit will vary. I only have experience personally doing this with 3 lights from 4 sevens. In the lights I have worked with, unless the light was specifically branded for 18650, that battery was too wide to accommodate the barrel. The 17670 even with an AW circuit was compatible.

OK, so I pulled the batterys from my Surefire P2X, having installed what I got with it a year or so ago. Didn't know any better and never looked back. Theres 2 x 123A Surefire Lithiums in there! So this is a bad thing and I need to replace with 17670 or 18650, based on dimensions or whatever Surefire recommends?
 
OK so I'm narrowed down to either

S30RII
OR
S2 BATON in black lol

Not big on copper lol

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Theres 2 x 123A Surefire Lithiums in there! So this is a bad thing and I need to replace with 17670 or 18650, based on dimensions or whatever Surefire recommends?

It depends on your risk tolerance. For me, any possibility of catastrophic failure that is easily avoidable should be avoided. Lord knows things break all by themselves, I don't need an explosion in my pocket or around my kids. If it were me, I would put a single battery in it. However, plenty of folks don't explode. We could talk about personal risk engineering... Philosophy aside, Which light do you have?

Feel free to PM me. I don't want to take away from the pics too much with battery discussion :D
 
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It depends on your risk tolerance. For me, any possibility of catastrophic failure that is easily avoidable should be avoided. Lord knows things break all by themselves, I don't need an explosion in my pocket or around my kids. If it were me, I would put a single battery in it. However, plenty of folks don't explode. We could talk about personal risk engineering... Philosophy aside, Which light do you have?

I have the P2X Fury Tactical. On/off tail switch - twist the tail cap and it stays on, version. I just read the battery warnings on Surefire's website and the recommendations for that specific model. No mention of this issue. The 123As are the recommended choice, though they're pretty explicit about wanting us to stay with their brand. I found a listed 17670 battery, but it was for a different light and not listed as an alternative to the 2x123a for this model. I called customer service, supposed to be open till five here (California), no one home, so left a message. ill report what they say, when I hear back.
 
Ah! Gotcha, thanks for clarifying.

Hey Tom,

Don't take my advice of the S1 as coming from a 2 battery vs 1 battery thing. That was in relation to him looking for something smaller than a 2xCR123A light. The S2 would be similar in size to the one that's too big for his needs.

That being said, I'd recommend a 18650 over 2xCR123A because it'll last longer and is rechargeable. You can get RCR123A but some lights will not support them.
 
OK, ok...

This then, "could" go in that vacant left rear pocket:
MrfUdru.jpg


I've been inspired by Jason's, (Diomedes') sheath making video and started out on this wallet thingy from KSF. Re-hand saddle stitched with thicker imitation gut thread, cut down the left side so the little Maratac would actually be accessible and boned all the edges.

Here's whats inside and that P2X that is not for EDC:

LCN5CGH.jpg
 
Thanks, Guhul. That is a Pocket Buddy model by my friend JoshRG (Gallardo Knives). That one is micarta, myrtle, and maple burl with AEB-L steel.
 
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