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Discussion in 'Fiddleback Forge Knives' started by Gevonovich, May 9, 2015.
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The end of a great day!
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I'm really feeling sad that I didn't grab that one NoRest. So good looking!
It looks even better in person!
@NoRest - You’ve got some of the nicest Bushboots (or as @pertinux would say, Bushbeet ) that I’ve ever seen. I’ve been slacking on posting pics recently, but still happy to own and use the ones I have.
I enjoy seeing your pictures of your Bushbeet in nature. Not only is it a great EDC knife for me, along with the Babyboot, but it’s a good all around, ergonomically friendly knife. Plus, I just really love that curve.
@Lady1911 Thank you! The Bushboot is definitely my favorite Fiddleback model. I have many other Fiddleback models that get carried and used but I almost always have a Bushboot on me too. I'm always on the lookout for more beautiful and unique Bushboots. There's a few specific configurations I'm still searching for. And of course there will always be new ones that call to me!
Out of curiosity.....which Blade thickness do you think works best for the Bushboot? Recently, I think it was on a FBF, I saw one offered in 3/32”, which I don’t have yet. The standard 1/8” seems to work well for me so far, even with slicing and precision stuff, but I am eager to find out if the thinner blade will handle any better. I can say without a doubt that the Babyboot shines with 3/32, but I use the Baby similar to a pocketknife, so it makes sense.
That's a great question. I have them in 3/32", 1/8", 1/8" TT, 5/32" TT, and one I believe is 3/16" TT. For my purposes the Bushboot is not a hard use knife. It's my EDC for small cutting tasks, food, and self defense if the need ever arises(which it has not). I do have one in 1/8" TT OD paper micarta that I carry for work. I've intentionally abused this one hard just to see what it could take and it handled everything I've thrown at it. I've cut carpet, wire, wood, aluminum, asphalt shingles, and even pried with it(which I don't reccomend with any knife unless it's an emergency). I prefer the feel of 1/8" TT. I also prefer the swedged blade on this model. It slices great and handles every task I encounter. The 3/32" definitely feels more slicey. And I can't imagine it ever letting me down with regular use. On almost any knife smaller than a Bushboot I prefer the 3/32" stock. For this model knife I don't think you can go wrong with any of the blade thickness options. Variety keeps things interesting. I think the Bushboot will shine with whatever your preferences are.
Different strokes for different folks obviously, but for me I prefer the actual full size Bushboot in tapered 3/16 or tapered 5/32 at minimum with a swedged or dagger grind because I carried the Bushboot for the same purposes I have carried every other "boot knife" I have carried, with thoughts to self defense or defense of whomever may be with me like my daughters or a lady friend. In the Babyboot, I love the 3/32 one I have borrowed from a lady friend (as you two both know I've sold off every one of the Fiddlebacks I owned personally or used them as collateral for loans just trying to get through a divorce and some other issues) to have one for using in blogs besides the other one I borrow from my daughter now and then for the blog. I do love the Babyboot in 3/32 because I use it as a pocket knife that doesn't fold and it works better for snacking in the field than my heavier knives do, and looks bad ass in the process
And draws less apprehension when I use it out in public places as well
@B Griffin - Absolutely agree about the Babyboot being a badass without intimidation. It’s also my favorite non-folding pocketknife.
On the subject of blade thickness, however, I can understand your reasoning, and it makes sense. From a boot knife perspective, I still prefer a swedged 3/32” or 1/8” at the most. For utility or hard use applications, maybe a TT 3/16”. Then again, the angle of the blade when nestled in my hand would determine how much of the tough work I could do with it more than steel thickness would, in my case.
I have a different perspective of things than most people I guess. Not only from the violence that I had to cope with living on the streets as an orphan from 15-19, but also from almost a dozen years of working professionally in field research and product development for companies like RMJ Tactical who make tools for war, and a decade of doing testing and evaluations for Tactical Knives Magazine and Knives Illustrated. So I see every size knife in a completely different light than the other sizes in the line up. Most people don't consider the possible consequences of striking bone with the high energy of an adrenaline driven strike, but I can't not consider it with certain knives, it just comes automatically now.
You make a good point Brian. I guess I may have to think about this when I do carry my Bushboot for defensive purposes. Which fortunately isn't very often.
This little side topic got me thinking. I get what you’re saying, and I respect your perspective. I also know this about myself - at the point where a tool becomes a weapon, it is crucial that it becomes a “natural” and familiar part of my hand. Without thinking and without lots of time to make decisions and whatnot, a person in a defensive situation will have to rely on muscle memory and instinct. For this reason, certain firearms would never be carried by me (Glocks) and others would. I imagine that the best defensive weapon is the one you have in your hand when you need it, but if I’m going to stack the odds in my favor, I’d probably choose something I know I can maneuver with and not fumble with. So yeah, I’d probably still choose a thinner blade stock, where you’d find the thicker blade to be more suited for the task.
Cool food for thought!
Yeah, like I said, different strokes for different folks, all based on their own personal experiences in life. Back in the 80s when I was just a kid and most of the philosophies I have now were still in the developmental phase, one of the knives I carried was a Sabatier paring knife that stayed razor sharp for multiple reasons (mostly food prep but field expedient emergency surgeries were another) and the other was a pilot survival knife with a rather obtuse edge for reasons of durability in rough uses. Over time, through multiple instances of being attacked in my sleep (a usual tactic for street predators), I learned that deep cuts with a thin razor sharp knife didn't tend to end the fray anywhere near as quickly as cuts and penetrations with a thicker, toothier, less sharp blade did, or strikes to the side of a head with a steel pommel. Those were my first lessons in wound trauma and nerve impact being much more effective than actual damage when it came to getting someone the f*ck off me quickly I find the thinner Fiddlebacks beautiful and all, like everyone else does. But to me they are just too much like fancy sharp paring knives for me personally to feel comfortable with outside my home with my experiences and skill sets
That's the one I envy you most for lol
It's been on me since it arrived. Ive been looking for this model in box elder burl for quite a while. I have a lot of sweet Bushboots. It's hard to pick a favorite but this is definitely one of them.
I want one in a dyed burl of blue or red one day. I think I am over the synthetic handle craze I had going on now since I have my hard use field knives sorted out. Now I am more leaning toward the smaller wooden handled Fiddlebacks these days.
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I had @Bmurray mod this Bushboot that I carry for work every day. It made it a lot easier to hold onto while using when wet or wearing gloves. I'm really pleased with how it turned out. Thanks Bob!
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