fire starting

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May 19, 2005
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As we all know, carrying around survival supplies that in theory should work is something of a mistake. You really need to try things out before the SHTF and you really need those supplies. Frequently, the best place to try something out is in your own backyard.

To this end, I decided to take a few minutes today and experiment with my fire-starting equipment. I live in a place where it is often very dangerous to start fires in the field, so I don't find myself starting campfires very often anymore (I'm really not interested in being that camper in the news who accidentally burns down 30,000 acres and has to pay for it). Yet in the event that bad things happen, I want to know that I can get a fire going if I really really have to. So as a part of my BOB and PSK, I'm carrying a blastmatch and a swedish firesteel rod. The question is, which works best?

(Note that I also carry at least one bic lighter with me in the woods. I didn't use it for this experiment because, well, I already know I can get a fire started using a lighter).

I also wanted to find out if my intended emergency tinder would work well. For this, I'm currently carrying petroleum jelly soaked cotton balls. I've never tried these before, but I've read about them in various locations (chiefly, Lundin's 98.6 Degrees) and they seem like a good idea ... in theory.

If you've never heard of petroleum jelly cotton balls, the concept is simple enough. Simply take triple sized 100% cotton balls (watch out for the cheap synthetic stuff as these will melt rather than burn) and coat the outside of them with petroleum jelly. The idea is to mash enough jelly into the cotton ball that it "feels like baby snot." I find that I can fit about 4 of these in a standard film canister.

To use the cotton balls, tear one open so that the uncoated fibers in the center of the ball are exposed. Light using the fire-starter of your choice. The ball will burn like a candle for 3 - 4 minutes with flames of between 1 and 3 inches in height (verified).

For this experiment, I placed a piece of aluminum foil on my grill and then placed the tinder on that foil. I used the aluminum foil mostly to keep the petroleum jelly off my grill, but also so that I could use the foil to smother the flame if I decided that I wanted to put it out.

Conditions outside were wet and humid due to a recent rainstorm, with a wind blowing across the kindling at about 2 - 4 miles per hour. Note that I made no attempt to shelter the kindling from the wind, and I found that the wind was in no way a hinderance to igniting the fire.

To begin, I tried my blastmatch. I like the theory of this. It places a flint bar inside a ABS case that acts as a plunger for the flint. To use, simple press down on a striker built into the case, and slide the case down the flint. This gives a decent amount of sparks with a one-handed operation.

For my experiment I initially tried positioning the blastmatch immediately off to the side of the cotton ball and angled it so that the sparks would strike the center of the ball. My thinking was that the ball would be inside a teepee of twigs and other kindling, and that I wouldn't be able to easily place the blastmatch on top of the cotton ball. However, I found that I couldn't seem to get the angle right for landing the sparks in the center of the cotton ball where I needed them to be. So I finally put the blastmatch in the dead center of the cotton ball. A single "plunge" with the match immediately lit up the cotton ball.

Given this, I'm now thinking that if I had to start a campfire with the blastmatch, I'd place the cotton ball on a small piece of bark or similar material that I could then slide into the center of the kindling once the initial fire had been lit.

For the second part of my experiment, I used my Swedish firesteel. This is a single rod of magnesium alloy 3.75" long. It comes with a cheap metal striker tethered to the steel.

The key to using these sort of fire starters is to make sure you scrape the protective black coating off the portion of the rod that you want to use before attempting to raise a spark. Before attempting to light the cotton ball, I tried two different strikers; the one that comes with the firesteel and a sharpened location (NOT the cutting edge) on the back of my Chris Reeve Mountaineer II. This "sharpened" (use the term loosely) location is near the tip of the knife where the spine drops to meet the point.

Of the two strikers, I found that I could raise a lot more sparks, and that I seemed to have more control over where the sparks landed, if I used the Mountaineer. The key to controlling the sparks using a firesteel is to hold the knife (or whatever you're using for the striker) steady and pull the firesteel backwards towards you. If nothing else, this prevents you from clumsily scattering your kindling by overshooting the end of the firesteel with your striker. Using this method, I found that a half-hearted, not very vigorous effort with the firesteel against the back of the knife was enough to ignite the cotton ball.

Based on this experiment, I came to several conclusions, some of them surprising.

First, the cotton balls work like a charm. I actually "made them" about 6 months ago and left them stored in the film canister since then, so this was truly a thorough test since they were in the condition that I'd expect them to be in after a lengthy storage. However, I have some complaints. First, they're messy to work with, but that's a minor point. I also think they would be a bit difficult to extract from the film canister, and then tear them open, if I had a broken hand or if my hands were simply numb from cold. Finally, they're a little too bulky for carrying in a small PSK. For this reason I intend to keep looking around for some other, more compact, kindling for at least my PSK. I've heard old bicycle inner tubes work well. Or possibly I'll spend some money on a commercial tinder, such as Survival Inc's Wetfire. (That experiment to occur at some later date).

Second, much to my surprise the firesteel worked better for me than did the blastmatch. I fully expected the blastmatch to be easier to operate. For this reason, if I don't absolutely require one-hand operation to start a fire, I'll probably use the firesteel + Mountaineer II combination whenever I need a campfire -- which might occur more frequently now that my kids are, happily, finally old enough to start camping with me. :)

By the way, my apologies if this was too long. However, I've found that sometimes a detailed description of even the simplest skills can be helpful to people who are just starting out. If you've ever watched the TV show "Survivor," you'd fully appreciate the need a novice might have for a detailed description on fire-starting techniques.

If anyone reading this has tips or suggestions on firestarters or emergency kindling, I'd really like to hear them.

Thanks for reading ....
 
i read your post and you only get 4 cotton balls in aq film canister?

i dont know how many i get in there but it is a whole lot more than 4, i like to massage the petroleum jelly into the cotton balls, soaking them through, i have dipped these under water for 30 seconds , took them out shook off the water and they lit right up. some folks melt the pj in a container then soak the cotton in the container squeeze them out and fill the canister with them. after you rub the pj in the cotton ball i just squeeze out as much i can and pack them into a film container.

as far as striking the fire steel, try a piece of hack saw blade, the serrated side will give you a lot of sparks. but it will chew up the rod.

as far as handleing the cotton ball, break off a twig and twist it into the film canister it will pick up a cotton ball for you, then you have a lollipop that you can move to your fire after lighting it. and your hands stay clean. use the back of the saw blade on your swiss army knife to strike the ferro rod. i use the saw like a comb to fluff the cotton ball if it is too flat it does not light as easily.

the strike force is also a good ferro rod combo, the handles store the wet fire tinder for you. the striker is pretty heavy duty, and will throw a lot of sparks for you. it is a little bulky but works well.

i have used the wetfire tinder in sub zero weather, i only needed about 1/4 of the cube to get a fire started. as it gets older it gets dried out and hard, but still works well.

alex
 
I use a old perscription medication bottle for my PJ cotton balls, holds probably three times the amount of the film canister and the lid locks better too. As far as something smaller, pack the Pj cotton balls into drinking straws that are cut to what ever size you can fit in your PSK. To do this clamp one end shut with needle nose pliers and melt it shut, pack it full, then melt the other end shut. When you are ready to use them, just cut open a straw and light. Use the search tab, there have been several threads on the straws. As for a good striker for firesteel, I have found that the back edge of the saws on Swiss Army Knives are at a very sharp 90degree angle and throw a good shower of sparks, much better than a hacksaw blade. I hope that this helps.
Wade
 
Nice post, I have tried the Wet Fire, they are pretty decent and work well at priming stoves in the winter I'm not convinced they are worth the cost though. That said the tests I did found one block to burn for 7 minutes while floating on water. :)
 
i have been doing the same thing recently, testing my fire lighting skills (im not good enough yet to try it with the sprinklers on)
i make the PJ and cotton wool balls by smooshing the PJ thru the cotton wool and i light them with a spark from a cut down bic "sparklite" style sparker
i found the back of my CRKT m16 throws heaps of sparks off my firesteel and that the blast match seems to be able to light tinders that dont seem to work with either the cut down bic or the firesteel.
the trick seems to be to push the striker bar down against the ferro rod a bit harder.
also i found that a "swiss Istor" tungsten carbide sharpener (wil post pics of it later) throws lots of big fat sparks that seem to work better for lighting tinder than sparks created by the back of a blade or the included strikers
 
Some people report good results with the stiker that comes with the Swedish Firesteel, but, personally, I've never been able to make it work well. I now use a small piece of hacksaw blade. It beats the crap out of the Firesteel, but works very well.
 
ok photos are done - number one here is the "istor" sharpener
its basically a small aluminium block with a small tungsten carbide block in the end of it - its pictured with a vic electrician and a Pacific salt spyderco



number two pic is most of my "spark fire tools", not pictured is a coghlans mag block with attached ferro rod

clockwise from the photon2 clone we have a small swedish firesteel, cut down mini bic, cut down full size bic and a US Blastmatch
 
I use the awl of my SAK to strike up sparks with both a Scout model firesteel and BSA Hotspark. It doesn't chew up the sparking tool and gets more than enough sparks.

I havn't messed with the petrocotton tinders much. I do like the Spark-lite tinders and have experimented with some of the natural tinders that are available in our area.
 
Has anyone tried a "permanent" nailfile as a striker? They are mild steel (maybe 3/8" wide x 2.25" long x 1/16" thick) with industrial gems set in the flat surface. I have known folks to carry them as match strikers (and they can, of course, file a ragged nail), but I wonder if they are hard enough to strike sparks from a firesteel.

The plastic straw/cotton ball thingee works great.
 
There's some good information in the comments here. Thanks!

From the replies, it appears that I'm doing something wrong with my cottonballs. I'm only getting 5 (I said 4, I was wrong) in a film canister and I believe I should be able to get more than that. Probably I'm putting too much PJ on the balls so for my next batch I'll try going with a lot less and see how that works.

I also don't think I need triple sized cotton balls so I'm going to try cutting these in half and even in quarters to see how they perform.

It seems like people are able to light up the cottonballs without tearing into them to expose non-coated fibers. Is that right? I tried lighting one of mine with my firesteel without tearing it open and I couldn't get it to go. I'm guessing this is one more symptom of "too much PJ." Yes?

About natural fibers as tinder. Back in the day (boyscout in the 70's) we were only allowed to light campfires with magnesium blocks (such as you get from Doan Machinery & Equipment) and natural fibers. My scoutmasters were nutty that way. After a while you get real good at finding lightable tinder in all but the worst downpours. Of course, this was in the heavy pine forests in northern minnesota where there's a ton of fuel. I'm not sure how well I'd do if I had to make an unassisted fire on a California beach using driftwood or in the Sonoran desert or other such locales. But then, I honestly haven't gone to those places thinking about how I'd get a fire going. Next time I'm out wandering around those places, I'll be sure to look for natural tinder and experiment if conditions/laws allow it.

Anyway, my point is that things like PJ cottonballs really are emergency tinder. IMO, it's best if you learn how to light a fire without their assistance in the places where you are most likely to be camping. After all, why spoil a trip just because you ran out of PJ and cotton?

Just thinking outloud here....
 
I tease the cotton balls open before sparkin' 'em. I never tried one all smashed together right outa' the 35mm can.
 
do you squeeze the pj out of the ball after you are done massaging it in? and you sometimes need to fluff the cotton to make the fibers more accessable to the spark. when you wring out the cotton ball it is pretty flat and you can pack a lot of them in a film canister. i dont have any snopt on the ball just the cotton saturated with pj but not dripping.

there is no doubt about pj/cotton balls being emergency tinder, i have never needed more than 1/2 to start a fire, and most times put out the flame on the cotton ball and could reuse it multiple times. i have tried fire in very cold and snow driven weather just to see how this wourks, and they should be in every kit. also some hexamine tabs, or nesbit fuel works very well. for this and it is cheap, the trioxane that the military uses is also very nice to have, it works well for a fire starter. it is easily available from sportsmans guide or cheaper than dirt or a whole bunch of other sources. i bought a large bag of this some years ago and have used it a lot, the trioxane is supposed to be somewhat toxic so dont handle it too much.

i have taught my daughters to start fires by this method in sub zero temperature with snow, and they managed it easily. the most important item is to get them to gather a lot ofkindling and squaw wood to keep the fire going.

alex
 
No I didn't squeeze the PJ out of the balls. Probably that was my mistake.

I went looking for information on firestraws and I just found this thread on extreme firestarting conditions. It has me rethinking things. One good idea is to place a weak long-burning light on your knife's lanyard to help you find it if you lay it down in the dark while starting that fire. This is not normally something I'd consider when thinking about firestarting equipment.

Also, the need for a long, hot, high flame to dry out kindling has me thinking that maybe I don't want to cut down the cottonballs after all. Packing rubber into the firestraw to lengthen burn time seems like a great idea.

Man do I ever have a lot of experimenting to do!
 
bulgron said:
Man do I ever have a lot of experimenting to do!
I really liked your review, bulgron!

What were you running your BlastMatch across, on top of your aluminum-protected grill, in order to shoot the sparks? There's a good animated graphic on the BlastMatch web page you recommended. In the animation, it appears to show the BlastMatch being run across a rock or an old, hard stump of wood.

ani2-blastmatch.gif


I can't see my doing anything but poking holes through the aluminum foil, if that was my striking surface! ;)

Again, bulgron, I think it's a great review and experiment, but I just wasn't picturing how you were getting a spark on top of aluminum foil.

GeoThorn
 
I've been experimenting with a MagFire and have used the spine of a VG10 Delica and the spine of an S30V MiniGrip to strike sparks from it, along with using the supplied striker.

All three work well, but it sure seems like using the blade spines chews up the spine of the blade. Do people really use knife spines on ferro rods routinely, or is it one of those "Good to know you can if you have to" sorts of deals? If you do it routinely, do you have a photo of the spine of the blade you use?
 
benh said:
I've been experimenting with a MagFire and have used the spine of a VG10 Delica and the spine of an S30V MiniGrip to strike sparks from it, along with using the supplied striker.

All three work well, but it sure seems like using the blade spines chews up the spine of the blade. Do people really use knife spines on ferro rods routinely, or is it one of those "Good to know you can if you have to" sorts of deals? If you do it routinely, do you have a photo of the spine of the blade you use?

I routinely use a piece of hacksaw blade. I have used knife spines, saws,and punches - plus glass, flint, and a steel ("tin") can lid.
 
geothorn said:
I really liked your review, bulgron!

Thanks!

geothron said:
What were you running your BlastMatch across, on top of your aluminum-protected grill, in order to shoot the sparks?

...

I can't see my doing anything but poking holes through the aluminum foil, if that was my striking surface! ;)

Well, you don't really run the BlastMatch across anything. Rather, you push it straight down against any solid-enough surface. As it turns out, my grill is constructed in a way that I could get a solid enough surface by pushing the match against the grill where two pieces of it cross. Still, you're right, I did tear a hole in the foil where the match jammed into it.

When I pushed the match down against the cotton ball, which was torn open and spread out flat, I got even better leverage. But it takes so few sparks to light up those balls, I don't think the additional pushing power really made that much of a difference.
 
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