First Feather Pattern

the billet was 2.5x2.5x4. The first slice I took off did not turn out either. I had to get all the flux and scale out of the center cut. After trying wet welding it, I just cut the seam with the band saw then pressed back together and dry welded. One of those unexpected positives that happen once in a while.

Thanks Don
 
This is a great thread! Excellent work Chuck, and loads of interesting commentary to get the gears in my head spinning. Feather is one of this things I'll be trying first when I get a press in my shop....

-d
 
Got to say I like that! I am not a great fan of Damascus but that pattern could change my mind!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:thumbup:
 
New Patterns are always fun and challenging. I really like this one and my head is still spinning with all the possibilities. Thanks for the feed back all.
 
Awesome steel Chuck and Bruce...

Chuck that is a really cool press,I have a small version of it I am getting set up at the present and I was thinking it was big but yours is a giant compared to mine....I cant wait till I can try this pattern,do you guys think it can be done with a power hammer and no press?

Bruce
 
The only problem with a power hammer is when it comes to the center cut. You can do it by hand but the billet size I used would be prohibitive, IMHO. Yeh that press of mine was used to press copper roof shingle panels. It could be adapted to split firewood too but i don't need any. It weighs 3600lbs without the base. The only problem I have with it is is wracks a bit if I do not have everything perfectly in the center. Other than that i have not had any problems forging with it. But i also have a 100lb Beaudry also so i can go either way:thumbup::D:thumbup:
 
Thanks Chuck...I was afraid of that with mt press,it was a old punch press and lifts the middle plate from the bottom,I am having fun trying to get the old dye out they had attached then I should be up and running.

Bruce
 
Here is an end shot of the billet. Left is before cut and right is after. You can see how the layers dragged down with the cut.
DSC05475.preview.JPG
 
A C Richards said:
Here is an end shot of the billet. Left is before cut and right is after. You can see how the layers dragged down with the cut.
DSC05475.preview.JPG
Click to expand...

Thats a nice cut right down the middle like that. Some of mine were off to one side. I cut mine all the way into 2 parts and ground off the mating surfaces. You can see where flux can be trapped on you RH picture. Dry welding is must I think.
 
Dry welding is the best I believe. After this one did not take I just cut down the seam with by band saw. It cleaned out all the trapped flux and scale. Pressed it back together and tig welded it shut. The rest of the slabs turned out great.
 
+1 on the dry welding question. Do you mean like with a torch and bare steel wire or rod? Thanks, Phil
 
good thread, as well dry welding??? maybe i just know it as a different name, or maybe not at all...............andrew
 
Mike Krall said:
Chuck... Bruce,

Would you explain "dry welding" and the details of it to me, please?

Mike
Click to expand...

Mike, basically dry welding is done without flux. If you can keep oxygen out of the joint it will weld at a given heat. When forge welding just a couple pieces like these together simply get them close and seal up the seam with wire feed welding and then forge weld it. No flux is needed because there is no oxygen to build scale. It does the same thing as a canister. There is no air to cause problems. The reason to flux is simply to keep oxygen out long enough to reach welding temps (2300f).

I use the dry method every chance I get now except the initial high layer count stacking although if its really high layer count and/or very thin like shim stock a canister with a stainless foil liner works real well. The stainless liner will not allow the canister to weld to the contents and just peels back off.
 
I'm not Chuck, or Bruce, or the Reverend Jessie Jackson, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night. :)



Dry welding is referring to forge welding without a flux. Just to clarify a forge weld is a cohesive bond of the layers of steel across the entire surface area with NO filler material (the bond between layers in damascus) achieved by applying force to the layers while at the proper temperature.


Typically, most smiths add a flux (anhydrous borax is very common) to a billet prior to forge welding the layers together. The flux keeps the inner surfaces of the billet free from oxidizing while reaching the proper temp.

With dry welding, you weld the seams of the joining layers with a mechanical welding process. Wire-feed welding them is getting more common... Chuck did his with a TIG welder. Welding the outer edges of the layers in this way negates the need for flux to keep oxidation from occurring in between the layers.

A flux free weld is very clean and rarely results in any voids or inclusions.


edited to add: I see Bruce beat me to it. Bruce said the same thing I did but in a less confusing way. Way to make me look bad Bump!!! Couldn't leave it at beating me by one day on the membership? Now this?!?!?! roflmao ;) :D
 
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edited to add: I see Bruce beat me to it. Bruce said the same thing I did but in a less confusing way. Way to make me look bad Bump!!! Couldn't leave it at beating me by one day on the membership? Now this?!?!?! roflmao ;) :D[/QUOTE]

Nick I think you did quite well for a little JS :D:D
 
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