First gun help

If you get the Remington 870 get one with the regular size tube. then you can use a 18" barrel for self defense and a 26" plus for skeet, trap or bird.
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
If you get the Remington 870 get one with the regular size tube. then you can use a 18" barrel for self defense and a 26" plus for skeet, trap or bird.
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Doesn't sound like skeet is one of his criteria so I'd actually recommend a Remington (#5077) 870 Express Home Defense with an extended magazine tube.

Besides everyone knows a Mossberg Cruiser is the best skeet gun out there.
 
i liked the SAA but feel that the schofield was unfairly thrown aside. when everybody is fumbling to load their saa or converted navy i am breaking open and easily loading my schof
 
SilentJohn said:
i liked the SAA but feel that the schofield was unfairly thrown aside. when everybody is fumbling to load their saa or converted navy i am breaking open and easily loading my schof
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Then that is the one you should get.
 
hatidua said:
Spend half of that on training, the other half on a pistol after the training (most instructors have a wide range of pistols for you to try and see what works best for you).
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I agree with the above.

I always recommend a first timer get a quality .22 and then practice practice practice.

Take the NRA Basic Pistol course, and see what the other students are using.

I like a Glock, as mine has been perfectly reliable for thousands of rounds.

Some people will cringe, but Hi-Point makes a nice solid pistol for CHEAP and it is all USA made. I have a 9mm Hi-Point and have never had an issue with it, and it is as accurate at self-defense ranges as anything I own.

Again - I would agree; get some training and rub shoulders with other shooters - see what they have and then find out what you like.

I have been shooting for years, and I still like taking my trusty Colt .22 to the range for a few hundred down the pipe.

best

mqqn
 
Having been a firearms instructor for many years I have never shot a more accurate out of the box Sig 226. Great weapon, rather large for concealed but itsyour choice. I Have only been able to get a Glock to jam once in over 15 years and that's after thousands of rounds, these are agency weapons. My personal choice for a ccw weapon is a hammerless Smith in .38, that weapon is designed for one thing close contact last ditch life saver. In the pants pocket, through a coat pocket whatever it won't jam. IMHO.
 
SilentJohn said:
I'm not saying I should get it, I just don't understand why they weren't more popular. I don't know Jesse James had one as well as wild bill
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Perception, availability and cost. Same reason the Glock is so preeminent now when much better handguns actually exist. Also figure a lot of people learned to shoot in the military so that usually meant their experience was with the SAA.
 
1) Glock G21, Gen4. (45ACP).

2) AK47 variant. (Long Range/Hunting?... Bolt action from Ruger, Remington, etc.)

3) Ithaca 37.

4) Ruger New Vaquero Convertible. (two cylinders; 45LC & the same 45ACP that you use in the Glock G21.)

Good Luck!
 
I'm actually changing the cowboy/fun gun to a henry mares leg. has the classic look of cowboy guns but with modern alloys and action

and the best part is I can load 260. buffalo bore 45 +p rounds in it and not worry about it breaking
 
SilentJohn said:
I'm actually changing the cowboy/fun gun to a henry mares leg. has the classic look of cowboy guns but with modern alloys and action

and the best part is I can load 260. buffalo bore 45 +p rounds in it and not worry about it breaking
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I've never touched one, but I have read some negative reviews regarding use and accuracy. If you get one let us know your opinion.
 
bo.t I heard those and then I heard about it being accurate out to 50 to 100 yards. I say it would depend on the load and the shooter

it seems like some people just want to hate on the gun since it was in a tv show, well everybody I'm hear to say chargers are crap because it was in dukes of hazzard

I'm not saying its as accurate as a full lever rifle but I would say its more accurate than a normal pistol
 
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hey guys. you might not give a ( expletive deleted ) anymore but I fell upon the 6920 magpul OD green. but I would like to ask about optics

should I save up and get a eotech holo red point or get a scope for longer ranges.
 
SilentJohn said:
hey guys. you might not give a ( expletive deleted ) anymore but I fell upon the 6920 magpul OD green. but I would like to ask about optics

should I save up and get a eotech holo red point or get a scope for longer ranges.
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You don't really need a scope with that rifle. You can get decent combat accuracy up to about 600yds, which is about the effective range of 5.56 in a 16" barrel. It's the range that it drops below 2400fps, at which point the round no longer fragments (it would be the same as getting shot by a .22) and it's also at the range where the ballistics fall to pieces - the round starts to drop considerably at about 400yds. You're also adding a lot of weight with a bigger optic. You don't need a flip to the side magnifier either - these rifles aren't meant to plink pop cans at 300 yds, they're meant to hit human sized targets. The holdovers keep them from being super accurate at a range of distances anyway, so it's best if you can get off the notion of trying to shoot super tight groups and work toward getting combat effective hits at all distances from 7yds-400yds.

Now, if you want to save a little money buy a Vortex SPARC - it's a quality red dot that is plenty tough enough for the majority of civilian use, and only a fraction of the cost of an Eotech or Aimpoint.


If you do decide to spring for an Eotech, I suggest getting the one with 1 dot. The ones with 2 dots or the T-dot hurt more than they help. I also like the cheaper XPS (it doesn't have a quick release mount) because it's lower than the EXPS and weighs a lot less - however I replaced the front sight with a low profile gas block on my 6920 and have flip up sites, so they do not interfere with sight picture. If you plan on keeping the front sight post, you probably need to get the EXPS.

Here is where I recommend an Aimpoint or the SPARC. Weight is one of the primary advantages of the AR platform, and by throwing a heavy optic on it you're just killing that advantage. Aimpoint has several optics that weight less than the EXPS Eotechs, and the batteries last a lot longer. I would go for the Aimpoint Micro H1 with lower 1/3 co-witness if I had it to do ll over. I have an Eotech XPS on one rifle, and a Vortex SPARC on an AR pistol. They are both great, and I don't see a reaosn to worry about it now.


As for the rest of your thread, it's great to get training, but in the last couple years people have been convinced that you cannot shoot a gun without a training course. The vast majority of public training is going to be simple common sense things like gun safety and shooting from 7 yards from a stationary position, and you can get far beyond that point yourself by studying and training on your own. Plus, there is a lot of training that will give you a sense of confidence without giving you the skills - basic Military and LEO training comes to mind. Soldiers think because they qualified Expert marksmen that they are invincible, but then go out and don't have very good reloads or tactics and end up getting shot. I know a guy that is paralyzed because he didn't reload fast enough, had his spare mags in the configuration the army told him to, didn't move to cover, and looked away from the threat he just took out (or thought he took out). After getting back home he found a few classes (did them in a wheelchair), and afterward said that he thinks if he would have gotten the same training in the Military he would still be able to walk.

I would say more important than any training, is being aware of your incompetence, or competence, and doing the correct things to build on what you have. Learn about the 4 stages of competency, and realize that you're probably incompetent, but aren't aware of it - the first step is admitting that you don't know WTF you're doing. Paying somebody for a class is not the only way to move to Conscious Competence.

If you're still looking at Handguns, I strongly suggest skipping the Magnum Research lineup, and going with a model such as: Glock, Smith and Wesson M&P, Springfield XDM, SIG, or even a 1911. It really doesn't matter, they're all great pistols (Magnum Research really isn't); personally, I think Glocks are overrated - they feel cheaper than comparable models, most peple can get better accuracy out of the other models. The thing is, the parts and mags are cheap, there is no better loading mag than a glock mag, and they're plenty reliable. Don't get caught up in barrel conversions if you do go the way of the Glock - explaining this would take quite a bit of doing, so just take my word for it - if you want to shoot 9mm, don't buy a .40 and a 9mm conversion barrel, get the 9mm.

My favorite is the XDM, but the first thing you want to do is get a PRP roll pin to replace the stock one that retains the striker. It's an easy replacement - the stock roll pin usually breaks after dry firing a couple hundred times, and you want to have the ability to dry fire. A PRP trigger will put the XDM on a whole other level - it's about 100$ though, so you're looking at a 700$ gun by the time you're finished. The M&P pistols are great too, my biggest complaint with them are the triggers. They feel cheap and are also one of the worst factory trigger - I usually replace all the triggers and do a trigger job anyway. I also like the SIG lineup, the P220 is one of their most ergonomic models and the SRT triggers are great in that model. You will likely get better accuracy as a beginner from the SIG - but at some point you're going to want a striker fired pistol.


As for your AR, I would strongly suuggest making your next upgrades after you get a optic a rubber o-ring and stronger ejector spring, and an H2 Buffer. If you can afford it, a Geissele SSA trigger will put that rifle on a whole other level. You also need a sling, and probably a light if you plan on using your rifle for home defense. There are a lot of great options, the most economical quality light I have used is the Inforce WML. As for a sling, the Blue Force slings are awesome, and you can get a clip that will let you convert a 2-point Blue Force sling to a 1-point sling.

Hope this helps.
 
on the light I'm good I own a fenix tk15 on the optic ill check out the vortex. I like aimpoint but damn are they expensive

and thanks for the upgrade info. I will most definitely have that done when I have more cash 200 bucks for a trigger . hope it's worth it and on the sling I'm a hefty dude will that be a problem
 
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SilentJohn said:
on the light I'm good I own a fenix tk15 on the optic ill check out the vortex. I like aimpoint but damn are they expensive

and thanks for the upgrade info. I will most definitely have that done when I have more cash 200 bucks for a trigger . hope it's worth it and on the sling I'm a hefty dude will that be a problem
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Most slings will accommodate most body types - if you're over 250 though, take a trip to a well stocked gun store and try some out. I like the Blue Force because it has some padding, and since I shoot more in T-Shirts than any thing else, it really does help. They're mostly adjustable though.


I would say it is worth 200$ - but I actually forgot to mention, Geissele makes a cheaper version called the GS2 or something that costs 165$, and if you're budget minded that is DEFINITELY the way to go. I put an SSA-E on my 6920, and I would say that it's probably the single upgrade the imparts the most quality enhancement. It might not make a whole lot of difference in a fire on fire gunfight where you're going 100 miles an hour, but it will make a difference on aimed shots from a rest, will help with follow up shots, and it's one upgrade that the vast majority of people will agree adds a lot of value to the rifle.

Something else that might be helpful, my 6920 got better accuracy from PMC and Wolf ammo than both of the popular military loads. I can't reconcile why that is, but it's a laser beam with PMC 55 grain, and I was able to get unbelievable accuracy with Wolf. I don't shoot bi-metal ammo at all anymore, but it does work out cheaper to shoot bi-metal wolf and change your barrel every 10k rounds than to shoot copper plated and change it every 20k.
 
again thank you for pointing me at the right ammo. I was a bit overwhelmed wonder which is best. and about my size and the sling worries is that yeah I'm chunky but I'm also 6'5 and built like a defensive tackle
I'll tell you justice your being a big help to me. thanks a lot and if you got anything else's let me know
 
Just want to mention, I run the BCM upgraded extractor spring without O-ring. Works very well. I also run an H buffer with 2 tungsten weights (I guess that'd be an "H2") with a CAR gas system and 16" barrel. Runs great on any ammo, even my cheap tulammo steel case practice crap.
 
thanks cereal. I'm writing all this down so when I have more funds I will get this done. glad to know that a spring works without the oring but I will probably use it anyway since its included
 
My advice would be a Glock 19, CZ P-01, Sig 226/229, HK P30, M&P9, Ruger sr1911/Remington R1/Springfiled RO etc.

Realistically, you should buy a G19, half dozen more mags, IWB and OWB holster, a case of 115g ball and a two day defensive pistol class. I know for a fact that's not how you will spend your $1200 so i'll stop wasting my breath.

1911s are a pain when you choose to make them a pain. spend $800-$1500 on a name brand and use name brand ammo and mags and you'll be golden.
Buy a $4,000 wilson in 10mm and use gun show $6 mags and handloads and you're asking for trouble IMHO, as a newb.

Revolovers are piss poor home defense guns and a DE is something to add to a collectionn not for practical use.

Good luck and GTFO of NJ!
 
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