First knife(1084) WIP

C

Camden

Joined
Feb 14, 2012
Messages
95
Ok so leaving my house today to pick up the wife I checked the mailbox. The piece of Aldo's 1084 that Mr. Tryppyr sent me to test out arrived!
gZj9LI7g_original.jpg

So as bad as I want to start this right now, I have to go get the wife and hang out with her co workers and drink beers for a few hours. That's ok cause as soon as I get home I'm gonna start designing. So stoked!
 
Well, they have napkins there don't they? Bring along a pen and design it while drinking the beers. No telling how many good ideas you can put down on a napkin.
 
bdmicarta said:
Well, they have napkins there don't they? Bring along a pen and design it while drinking the beers. No telling how many good ideas you can put down on a napkin.
Click to expand...

Bwahhahahaha yeah that woman would stab me with a pen if I did that instead of being "social". I am anxious though.
 
She can't control your mind! Dare to dream!!

Make eye contact, and just make small talk every once in a while, but secretly be thinking of knives.

Not saying that's what I do or anything..........
 
lonepine said:
OK, now just remove everything from that steel that isn't a knife. Easy!

- Paul Meske
Click to expand...

I guess I don't get it. Anyhow I'm 51 back home getting ready to get to work on this puppy. I feel like a little hopped up on pixie sticks at chuckee cheese.
 
It's stock removal. Just like sculpture, remove all the metal that doesn't look like a knife, then you will be sitting with a piece of metal that looks like a knife.
 
I say start small. With the right design, you should b able to get two knives from that bar. Smaller knives also take less time to finish, so they provide grtification much quicker!


1084 is a great steel, easy to work and heat treat. The only reason it is called "beginner" steel is because it is so forgiving. I would take a 1084 (or 1080) knife into battle any ay.


-Xander
 
Looks like a good design to start. If you make the profile slightly thinner you could add some drop to the spine. I find a dropped handle even if only slightly helps with the aesthetics.
You could also just heat up the tang and bend it down prior to heat treat.

Btw, I'd get stabbed with a pen for failing my social responsibilities too if I was caught drawing while out. My iPhone gets me in enough trouble.

Also. Depending on the width of the blade the grind might have a better edge if brought up towards the spine slightly. If that's a scandingrind, disregard my statement.

Looking forward to seeing what you create.
 
update
uZ5IeZQ0_original.jpg
T2MoT45I_original.jpg
So I got it shaped and I wasn't happy with how my I saw it so I made some ISA's
Cze0luaG_original.jpg
80BrY_E__original.jpg

The handle I left a little thicker and freehand ground the front of the blade for a more fluid look. I may take it down a little more . I don't know yet.
 
I like the revised blde tip much better. The handle looks similar to some of the Busse knives. Deffinetly make cardboard or paint stir stick cutouts to try the different shapes in hand before cutting more steel away.

Keep at it! How do you plan on doing the bevels? Are you going to file them or do you have some sort of power grinder? Listing what tools you have available can help others here help you make a better knife if you run into a tough spot.


-Xander
 
Rough bevel grind with 30 grit. Now switching to 60.
IiQ9S8V3_original.jpg
V03LvEGa_original.jpg
kGMkzzIb_original.jpg

And here's the equipment I'm using. Nothing special
+HzG9lqB_original.jpg
 
Looks good so far.

I think you need to grind just a tad off the top back end of the handle to give it a slight drop. Just an 1/8" will be enough. It will change the look as much as the change you made to the blade did.

Also, don't grind too much off the blade edge. It needs to be at least .030 thick before HT. If yo get it too sharp, you will have to flatten it back some.
 
I would go with the drop at the handle like Stacy said. Would be a little more comfortable in the hand and give it more eye appeal.
 
How you getting that mamajama heat treated? If you need me to heat treat it, let me know. I don't need too much of an excuse to fire up my Evenheat oven and open up my 20mm ammo can full of Park's 50.
 
bladsmth said:
Looks good so far.

I think you need to grind just a tad off the top back end of the handle to give it a slight drop. Just an 1/8" will be enough. It will change the look as much as the change you made to the blade did.

Also, don't grind too much off the blade edge. It needs to be at least .030 thick before HT. If yo get it too sharp, you will have to flatten it back some.
Click to expand...

Thanks Stacy! I'll try to drop the handle a tad. I kind of jumped the gum last night and drilled holes to pin the scales, I'm worried if I drop the handle now, there won't be much meat on the handle for the pin. I'm getting ready to go out to the garage so I'll definitely give it a shot.

cbr900son said:
Any idea what you thinking about for the handles?
Click to expand...
Scales are going to be a custom concoction I conjured up with some clear surfboard resin and a white bandana. If it looks
As dumb as it sounds I cand always melt some of my daughters barbies down and use them... Lol she won't care I'm sure.

Danbo said:
How you getting that mamajama heat treated? If you need me to heat treat it, let me know. I don't need too much of an excuse to fire up my Evenheat oven and open up my 20mm ammo can full of Park's 50.
Click to expand...
Thanks m8. If it were a more complicated steel I'd say yes, but from what I've read I think I can get it right with my charcoal and new homemade propane tank forge quenched in SOmegoodole fashion canola. I reaaly do appreciate the offer though!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top