First Knife WIP--need some help

Mr. Bad Example

Mr. Bad Example

Joined
Dec 4, 2009
Messages
475
Well, I'm at a point where I need some direction. I've got the profile to where I'm happy with it. Now I've started the primary grind. I've also started grinding the clip. I know I should do a plunge, but I'm not sure how, so have skipped it so far and have attached a "grinding stop" so I don't over run.

The concept for the knife is "mini coffin handle bowie" and the stock is Aldo's 1/4" 1084. I'm working with an angle grinder and crappy HF 1x30.

Here is where we're at:

Original sketch:
Knife-v3_0.jpg

Profile done"
NSO4.jpg

First go at primary grind:
grind1.jpg

The "edge"--approx. 1/32 flat left:
grind2.jpg

Spine shot:
grind3.jpg

The pokey end:
grind4.jpg


So, I would appreciate any instruction in what to do next, as well as any constructive criticisms. Thanks!
 
If you have files, you can do the plunges by hand. I feel that a radiused plunge is preferable, you can do this with a chainsaw file or other type of round file. It can be done with a square edge file also though.
You can probably use the grinding stop thingy as a file guide if you do a square cut but if you use a round file you will have to start a little ways away from it and work up to the stop once you are in deep enough for the full width of the file to ride against it. It is pretty easy to free-hand them with a round file though because once you get a groove started the file follows it and you have good control for getting it just where you want it before the groove gets very deep.
 
Justin--thank you. I do have a brand new chainsaw file kicking around. How deep should the cut go? How far up the blade should it go?

This is a very thick blade and I think I want to basically do a flat or convex grind to get a decent edge. I also intend for the clip to be sharp.
 
You have to decide how thick you want the edge and how high up the blade you want the bevels to go, then work backwards. You need to leave some meat to grind off after HT to remove any decarb, and you might want to figure a bit more meat for error when filing the plunges. I would go to about a penny's thickness at the edge and around 3/4 of the way up the blade to start (my blades are usually ground flat all the way to the spine, or very nearly so), then rough in the bevels, then spend some time studying it and deciding what needs adjusting, and work the bevels and plunges down gradually from there until they are as consistent as you can get them and the edge is about .050. I make a wooden sanding block with the edge radiused to match the round file, and wrap sandpaper over it, to get the plunges cleaned up and blended smoothly with the bevels.
Patience is the deciding factor in getting this part right, and you have some time to get the feel of it before you get to the critical stages. It's really only the last few hundred file strokes that create the actual geometry, the rest is just hogging:eek:
 
Yep, just what Justin said.
Another thing, figure out where you want the top of your grind,color in the side of the blade with a marker and get a line where you want the grind to stop.
Good luck and have fun with it. Jerry
 
skilldust said:
Yep, just what Justin said.
Another thing, figure out where you want the top of your grind,color in the side of the blade with a marker and get a line where you want the grind to stop.
Good luck and have fun with it. Jerry
Click to expand...

Jerry, thank you--I'll do that. Heading to the shop now to do my plunge and some grinding. Will post a new pic later today.
 
OK, well, the plunge cut isn't as pretty as I'd hoped, and I forgot to mark the top as was suggested (doh!) but it's done. Started grinding. My crappy 1X30 grinder is really not up to this task--there is a ton of steel to get rid of. I think I should trade some of my .25 stock for some .125 for small knives like this one. Here are some pix for opinions/suggestions:

Kind of starting to look like a knife:
Plunge4.jpg

The other side:
Plunge5.jpg

Ugly plunge:
Plunge2.jpg

Even worse:
Plunge1.jpg

Blurry pic of the edge:
Plunge3.jpg
 
You can speed things up by using the angle grinder to knock down the hump in the center, but you will want to use your grinding stop or something similar to keep the grinding wheel away from the plunge. It should take material off faster than your 1x30 and you can grind pretty flat with one once you get a good feel for it.
 
Jerry, I was tempted to fire up the angle grinder--it just melts the steel like it was butter.

I'm just concerned about taking too much off. I may give it a try, though--I've burned up a 120 belt and two hours of work just on today's progress.

My hat is off to those doing this with only hand tools--my patience would never manage it.
 
Mr. Bad Example said:
I've burned up a 120 belt and two hours of work just on today's progress.

My hat is off to those doing this with only hand tools--my patience would never manage it.
Click to expand...

I know what most folks think about power tools but in all fairness I bet your 1x30 dosen't have much on a good double-cut file for speed of removal, especially if you are using AO belts. If you are going to use the 1x30 for heavy stock removal I would try a coarser belt, a ceramic belt if you can get them.
 
I'm done with power tools at this point--from here on in it will be sandpaper. I got all kinds of "dents" from my belt grinder so I gave up and went to town with a coarse double-cut file. It sure does take off the steel, but left some deep scratches. Today I picked up a fine mill bastard file and cleaned up the blade considerably. I think now it's time to go to the paper. What do you think:

Grind_Done1.jpg


Grind_Done2.jpg
 
Looks pretty respectable for your first:) You can get a cleaner surface with the single cut file if you use file chalk and be anal about keeping the file clear of filings.
How thick is the edge? It looks to be getting a bit convex already which can make it hard to judge when to stop hogging material off and start getting rid of scratches. Each maker has his own preferences for these things though so you kind of have to get a feel for it. I like to leave the edge a little thick but I HT in a gas forge and I have a good grinder and ceramic belts to take the material off after hardening. Your personal setup/methods may dictate a thinner edge so you have less work after HT.
 
OK, here's my 400 finish. Is it ready for HT? Let me have it--good, bad and ugly. I know the blade has some issues, and I sure have learned a lot! The next one will be better.

Speaking of HT, what should I do? It is 1084 but the best I have on hand is an OA torch and possibly a toaster oven. Thanks for any advice!

400_PreHT2.jpg


400_PreHT1.jpg
 
I don't have any sage advice to impart but I wanted to say that I'm glad you stuck in there. The last set of pictures show what could be a very useful knife. Congrats. :thumbup:
 
That has turned out pretty nice! If you want to HT yourself with the torch I would suggest you practice on some pieces of scrap first. A coffee can forge or single firebrick forge would make it easier and are pretty cheap and quick to put together.
I have never tried to HT with a torch so I can't give much more advice than that.
 
Lookin great so far MBE. Im still not much further then I was last posting. I cleaned up the last little bit on the file/sandpaper for the full profile. Havent started the actual blade yet.

For my HT im thinking of shipping it off to TC knife makers supply for HT. I figure Ive put too much into it as is to mess up the HT. For the next few WIP's after this one Im just going to profile em out then send say 5 or so in at a time for HT.
 
While I can't speak for them, I would guess that just about any maker in the New England area will do it for you. If you don't have any offers, I will be glad to do it for free. BTW, the knife looks good.
 
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