FK2

[Cap’n Smudge]

Couple of questions about the FK2. The black oxide fasteners are all marked up. Anything you can do to coat them black again? I’m for some reason I love the scratches and patina in the blade from heavy use, but the scratched fasteners make it look cheap.

Also, I’ve read that people oil their micarta scales to make it darker and smoother. Anyone here actually do this?

You can get Ti fasteners.
I clean my knives with mineral oil, the entire knife. It does darken the micarta temporarily.

 

[amflud]

I’d imagine the fasteners come from the manufacturer that way. They’re probably bagged with a bunch of other fasteners and they scratch each other up. That’s how I would package them; they’re just fasteners. If it bothers you I guess you could just go over them with a Sharpie.

 

[Fonedork]

The black stuff comes off all my fasteners too for some reason, I think from sweat/rubbing. I like the marks on the screws, removable wear marks, it’s like a no commitment badge of honor that I used the knife, or at least held it long enough to sweat on it

 

[- SpyderMan -]

The black stuff comes off all my fasteners too for some reason, I think from sweat/rubbing. I like the marks on the screws, removable wear marks, it’s like a no commitment badge of honor that I used the knife, or at least held it long enough to sweat on it

That’s kind of how I look at it, as well.

 

[Gusbuster]

The black stuff comes off all my fasteners too for some reason, I think from sweat/rubbing. I like the marks on the screws, removable wear marks, it’s like a no commitment badge of honor that I used the knife, or at least held it long enough to sweat on it

Right on bro!

 

[Casinostocks]

What is it with Y'all balmy bastids and your clammy hands?!

 

[TommyGun56]

Couple of questions about the FK2. The black oxide fasteners are all marked up. Anything you can do to coat them black again? I’m for some reason I love the scratches and patina in the blade from heavy use, but the scratched fasteners make it look cheap.

Also, I’ve read that people oil their micarta scales to make it darker and smoother. Anyone here actually do this?

Everybody has different opinions on this subject, But I agree with you, the Ti Fasteners are IMO a big improvement over the Black Oxide. I would suggest contacting CPK and see if you can purchase a set for you FK2 As far as oil goes, yes Mineral Oil (Which is safe to consume) will darken your scales up for awhile, but nothing is

better than the Natural oil(s) from your hands

 

[Standard78]

Couple of questions about the FK2. The black oxide fasteners are all marked up. Anything you can do to coat them black again? I’m for some reason I love the scratches and patina in the blade from heavy use, but the scratched fasteners make it look cheap.

Also, I’ve read that people oil their micarta scales to make it darker and smoother. Anyone here actually do this?

I use a Birchwood Casey Super Black touch up pen on all of my hardware and it works wonders. Just be sure to remove the hardware from the scales.
I even put it on the sheath eyelets when the finish wears off.

 

[Dr_Void]

I use a Birchwood Casey Super Black touch up pen on all of my hardware and it works wonders. Just be sure to remove the hardware from the scales.
I even put it on the sheath eyelets when the finish wears off.

Just ordered it. Thanks!

 

[SpyderPhreak]

If it bothers me, I'll just polish the top of the fasteners to a mirror finish with a Dremel and Flitz. Once and done!

 

[Dr_Void]

So I beat the hell out of this knife last weekend on a camping trip. Batoned through logs about a hundred times, made feathersticks, shaved a walking stick, and carved a crappy spoon. After all of that, I could still shave with it. It sliced through paper like nothing. It did get snagged on a small area on the belly though. My friend’s Esee and Benchmade kept snagging on the paper and they took less abuse than my FK2.

On top of that, it rained for the entire 3 days and there was always a layer of moisture on the knife. Not a single sign of rust or corrosion.

Once I got home, I stropped the knife a few times on black compound and then green, and it’s good to go. The sides of the blades still have some residue that rubbing alcohol hasn’t gotten off yet, but I like the patina.

I’ll probably start using mineral oil before and after these trips, but will there be any corrosion under the scales? Do you think any water can get trapped under the micarta?

Also, this is off topic, but does anyone have a picture of the knife without the scales? I’m curious to see how skeletonized the tang is.

I have the titanium fasteners, but they require a different tool that I don’t have. Plus, I’d probably F something up and something will somehow get misaligned. Is there a post with instructions?

 

[amflud]

It’s definitely possible to get a little surface rust under the scales. You could remove the scales and treat that area with Renaissance Wax or something similar.

 

[TRfromMT]

Also, this is off topic, but does anyone have a picture of the knife without the scales? I’m curious to see how skeletonized the tang is.

I have the titanium fasteners, but they require a different tool that I don’t have. Plus, I’d probably F something up and something will somehow get misaligned. Is there a post with instructions?

Here are a couple for you. I've had mine off, planning for some custom scales. I put a little paste wax under mine. Never had a spec of rust.

Taking the scales off is straightforward, but needs some dexterity and care to not gall the fasteners.

View attachment 1126408 View attachment 1126409

 

[JustinFournier]

So I beat the hell out of this knife last weekend on a camping trip. Batoned through logs about a hundred times, made feathersticks, shaved a walking stick, and carved a crappy spoon. After all of that, I could still shave with it. It sliced through paper like nothing. It did get snagged on a small area on the belly though. My friend’s Esee and Benchmade kept snagging on the paper and they took less abuse than my FK2.

On top of that, it rained for the entire 3 days and there was always a layer of moisture on the knife. Not a single sign of rust or corrosion.

Once I got home, I stropped the knife a few times on black compound and then green, and it’s good to go. The sides of the blades still have some residue that rubbing alcohol hasn’t gotten off yet, but I like the patina.

I’ll probably start using mineral oil before and after these trips, but will there be any corrosion under the scales? Do you think any water can get trapped under the micarta?

Yes it’s possible but it will be minor. Personally I remove the handles when new, apply Obenauf’s LP, tighten em’ tightly and evenly and never had a problem since.

 

[Dr_Void]

Here are a couple for you. I've had mine off, planning for some custom scales. I put a little paste wax under mine. Never had a spec of rust.

Taking the scales off is straightforward, but needs some dexterity and care to not gall the fasteners.

View attachment 1126408 View attachment 1126409

Thanks for the pics. Do you use Loctite when putting the fasteners back on?

 

[TRfromMT]

I sure don't. The left side fasteners are fixed to the barrels with red locktite already. I leave the left side with whatever blue residue is already there.

 

[JJ_Colt45]

Some already mentioned some good options to apply under the scales for protection ...

a wax is a good option ... but I have switched to mostly Eezox ... easy to spray on replace the scales tighten then up good and then just keep the blade cleaned and wipe it with mineral oil.

 

[Gusbuster]

So I beat the hell out of this knife last weekend on a camping trip. Batoned through logs about a hundred times, made feathersticks, shaved a walking stick, and carved a crappy spoon. After all of that, I could still shave with it. It sliced through paper like nothing. It did get snagged on a small area on the belly though. My friend’s Esee and Benchmade kept snagging on the paper and they took less abuse than my FK2.

On top of that, it rained for the entire 3 days and there was always a layer of moisture on the knife. Not a single sign of rust or corrosion.

Once I got home, I stropped the knife a few times on black compound and then green, and it’s good to go. The sides of the blades still have some residue that rubbing alcohol hasn’t gotten off yet, but I like the patina.

I’ll probably start using mineral oil before and after these trips, but will there be any corrosion under the scales? Do you think any water can get trapped under the micarta?

Also, this is off topic, but does anyone have a picture of the knife without the scales? I’m curious to see how skeletonized the tang is.

I have the titanium fasteners, but they require a different tool that I don’t have. Plus, I’d probably F something up and something will somehow get misaligned. Is there a post with instructions?

Nathan has posted instructions before. The Ti fasteners requires a Torx tool( you’ll need two - one for each side). I think it’s an eight or nine? As mentioned before, the left side(side with the Carothers logo) fasteners have permanent red loctite, and the right side have blue. You should loosen the left. Then you could tap out the right with a tap. I coat the metal with Marine Tuff Glide, and Ren wax.

 

[hhmoore]

the left side(side with the Carothers logo) fasteners have permanent red loctite, and the right side have blue. You should loosen the left. Then you could tap out the right

That seems wrong - if the left side fasteners have red loctite, and the right have blue... wouldn't one loosen/remove the right, and tap out the left? Or am I missing something?

 

[Gusbuster]

That seems wrong - if the left side fasteners have red loctite, and the right have blue... wouldn't one loosen/remove the right, and tap out the left? Or am I missing something?

I loosen the screws on the right, the side without the Carothers logo, place my tap thru the hole, and tap out the fasteners (screw and barrel) from right to left. I’m sure Nathan explained it better but my searchfuu no bueno.