Can we take a quick trip off-topic if the mod asks the question?
I agree, even when MFR's claim to use the ANSI method, it can be very misleading. One man's 355 Lumens is another man's 240.
Plus, as long as output is adequate, I find that the beam profile and tint are much more important than the actual lumen output. And Lux is a more accurate measurement of actual throw. Total lumens output doesn't tell you much. Unless you side-by-side or back-to-back compare, it takes at least a 50% increase (and often a 100% increase) in output to appear appreciably brighter. An adequate light with the right profile for the task will appear brighter than a much brighter light with an inappropriate profile. A 200L spotlight will show you what's down the road or across the field much better than a 500L flood; don't try to use a 500L spotter to work under the hood. And don't get me started on donut holes / Cree rings. But it's hard to put beam quality into the spec sheet, and everyone's needs/desires are different.
As an example on the importance of beam: my first "bright" light was a LuminTop TD15x - 580 lumens on 2xCR123 in a light little bigger than a 6P. First month, it just blew me away. A great wall of light. Now, unless I'm looking at a bird or tree or something up high with no background, I run the the thing on Medium, because High puts so much light into my peripheral vision that my distance vision is degraded. And the tint's so cool that wood picks up shades of gray.
If Rick came out with a line of lights, that would be awesome, but I doubt I could afford them. Besides, the Hinderer (or at the very least CRK) of the light world already exists - his name is McGizmo, and he makes titanium wonders. They aren't the brightest in the world, but the beams are fantastic and they're indestructible.