FNG Building a GIB

PT Doc said:
Can you explain the mounting setup? Looks like you used a screw that goes all the way through but then the slit snd compression button head screw throw me a curve.

Did you use cold rolled for the tool arm?

Thanks
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It is a flat head cap screw counter-sunk into the 6061 aluminum arm. I did the pinch fit to remove any slop or movement of the axle. I could have done it with any bolt that had an un-threaded shoulder but, I thought this would look clean and keep the bolt head out of the way.

Here's some shots of making the 4" drive wheel. I machined the counter-bore first then flipped it over and clamped to the inside edge. I then turned the outside diameter and bored for the shaft in the same clamping so they would be concentric. I drilled the shaft hole undersize and finished it to final dimension with a small boring bar. I still need to broach the keyway and tap for a set screw.

Bob


Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr


Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr


Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr
 
Had some more time in the shop today. Bracket I made for lower spring mount.


Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr

I decided I didn't like the idea of spacing the drive wheel out so far. The shaft on the 56c motor is not very long and pushing the drive wheel out too far really reduces how much shaft engagement you get. I decided to mill 1/4" off the face of the platen arm. That allows me to get an extra 1/4" of motor shaft into the drive wheel and reduce the shimming of the other wheels by the same amount. I haven't received my KnifeDogs small wheel attachment yet but I'm assuming I will have to adjust for it as well. I also had to switch the motor mounting bolts to button heads to reduce interference.


Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr


Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr

Bob
 
Looking good! I got the small wheel attachment for mine and love it.

When you moved all of the wheels over did you have any problem with the belt touching the side of the frame?
 
The belt easily clears the frame with all my attachments. I can't imagine an application where it would hit. The only issue I had was that I had to replace all the 3/8" socket head screws with button heads to prevent rubbing. I think you could still inadvertantly rub the belt on a bolt head if you weren't paying attention to the tracking but, if you are tracking straight there's about 1/8".
 
Thanks, Mine looks close, but I think it will clear. I have already gotten the button head bolts installed, mine rubbed socket head screws in the normal configuration. I don't have any tracking problems with everything spaced out so I am on the fence about moving it all in, but everything nice and tight sure looks good though.
 
Theiskell said:
Thanks, Mine looks close, but I think it will clear. I have already gotten the button head bolts installed, mine rubbed socket head screws in the normal configuration. I don't have any tracking problems with everything spaced out so I am on the fence about moving it all in, but everything nice and tight sure looks good though.
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Having never built one of these before, I'm basing all my decisions off others' examples and my many years of building various mechanical devices. My goal is to have this thing run quiet and vibration free for years into the future. Secondary goal is to to look clean and well built. I feel that building it for the first goal will pretty much take care of the second.

Bob
 
Finished up the fab for the flat platen and assembled everything for test fit. I made the platen out of .625" 1018 CR and I will add a ceramic glass liner to it once I get everything up and running. The top wheel is a 2" contact wheel I ordered from USA Knife Maker Supply; the bottom wheel is a 2" aluminum idler I machined. I got a notice that the VFD shipped so I'm hoping to have this thing running next week.

Bob


Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr


Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr
 
Your doing a outstanding job ! Very clean look. Platen looks nice what is the length on that ?
 
Marko3 said:
Your doing a outstanding job ! Very clean look. Platen looks nice what is the length on that ?
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Thanks. It is 10"

PT Doc said:
Looks good. Platen will need to be shortened when adding Pyroceram.
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My plan is to use a 9" liner and I will machine the face down to create a shelf with the bottom inch of the platen. I'm probably going to just bevel off the back corners to create a little more clearance.

Bob
 
Man this is just too fun to watch.. It's lookin great man! I like the idea of milling some of the face off of the platen and having a permanent yet very solid ledge for the ceramic platen to sit on. I do however wonder if it would be easier, and time/tool saving to just mill a slot in each one of "tabs/arms" that are holding the platen itself to the platen attachment. That way you could slide the face of the platen in and out to adjust it accordingly if you want to taper tangs or etc. on it.. cause (I'm sure you already know this) you need some clearance between the platen face and the wheels so either the tang or the blade (depending on what you're tapering and grinding) won't hit the idlers. Should be easy to make a small shelf and just tap a couple of screws in the bottom of the platen to attach it.
Just an idea from a "non machinist" who made his very own NWG! :cool: ;)

Anyway, please keep posting your progress brother, it's great seeing all of your creative solutions and problem solving skills that make me feel so incredibly stupid! ;) lol

-Paul
______________________________________
(some of my knives and other knifemaking stuff - www.youtube.com/Lsubslimed )
 
coldsteelburns said:
Man this is just too fun to watch.. It's lookin great man! I like the idea of milling some of the face off of the platen and having a permanent yet very solid ledge for the ceramic platen to sit on. I do however wonder if it would be easier, and time/tool saving to just mill a slot in each one of "tabs/arms" that are holding the platen itself to the platen attachment. That way you could slide the face of the platen in and out to adjust it accordingly if you want to taper tangs or etc. on it.. cause (I'm sure you already know this) you need some clearance between the platen face and the wheels so either the tang or the blade (depending on what you're tapering and grinding) won't hit the idlers. Should be easy to make a small shelf and just tap a couple of screws in the bottom of the platen to attach it.
Just an idea from a "non machinist" who made his very own NWG! :cool: ;)

Anyway, please keep posting your progress brother, it's great seeing all of your creative solutions and problem solving skills that make me feel so incredibly stupid! ;) lol

-Paul
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Paul, thanks for the compliments. Feedback like yours is exactly what I need because I have never made a knife and I had not considered that I might need to push the platen out proud of the idler wheels. The arms that hold the platen are slotted but, now I'm wondering if I made them long enough. How far beyond the wheels is necessary? I wouldn't think you could go too far due to friction and heat build-up. Thanks for the tip. Please, if anyone else sees anything I'm doing wrong or that could make this thing more functional, let's hear it.

Bob
 
I think I mentioned earlier in the thread that I was going to set this grinder up to flip to horizontal. I started on that yesterday. I'm using some 3x3 box tube I had left over from building a run-in shed for my horses. The plan is pretty simple. I'm using a couple pillow blocks and a length of 3/4" rod. After taking some measurements, it looked like putting the pivot point in line with the two left side baseplate mounting holes would keep the work height the same when flipped. I milled a flat on the rod and drilled it to bolt directly to the baseplate at those holes.. I built this pretty quickly and didn't stop to take many pictures. It still needs some finish work but, I think it's going to work really well. The 1-2-3 blocks are sitting on a ledge that will support a couple adjustable feet screwed into the two right side baseplate holes. It will also get some adjustable rubber machine feet on the legs of the stand. The weight of the grinder should be more than adequate to hold itself in either position.

Bob


Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr


Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr


Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr


Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr


Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr
 
This build along is insane! You sir are one amazing craftsman. Love the inset ideas on the arms. The flip from horizontal to vertical is well done.
 
Even though the weight will keep the unit in place when in either position, I would add a spring loaded lock pin on the front or side of the frame for vertical use. It can mate with a hole on a block attached to the bottom of the plate. I agree that horizontal use will not need a lock.

The lock pin is just a piece of 1/4" round stock with the ends chamfered, a round knob for the outside end, and a short compression spring for the inside. A washer and a "C" retainer ring retain the spring. Pull back on the pin to release. Push in to lock. The spring will hold it snugly in place.
 
Got the VFD hooked up and did a test run. I felt the tracking was a bit finicky on the 3/4" small wheel. I think I'm going to put a little crown on the drive wheel and see if that helps. It seemed much quieter in person than on these cell phone videos. Still need to install the Mason machine feet which should be here tomorrow and then clean and paint the stand. I think I will go ahead and install some kind of captured pin for holding the grinder tight in the vertical position. There seems to be some vibration coming from the rotational inertia and locking it into the stand tightly should make that go away. Thank you Bladsmth. I need to figure out how I'm going to do the work rest now.

Bob

[video=youtube_share;o5FGUunSys0]http://youtu.be/o5FGUunSys0[/video]

[video=youtube_share;uumQw9ZLHSg]http://youtu.be/uumQw9ZLHSg[/video]
 
You are going to want to move that VFD to the other side. If the belt breaks it might slap that VFD into oblivion
 
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