Folders locking strength

Landshark99 · Apr 13, 2022

Funny thing no matter how many people may say the lock back of the Buck is the best, I have never warmed up to my one and only 110. I have it just so I feel like my collection is more complete, but I am not a fan of lock backs. My first real knife was german lock back it sits in the drawer with my Buck collecting dust. I have never had a frame lock, liner lock, compression lock or axis lock fail on me, but I have always used a folder with the idea that it can fold, so always cut away from me. Anything that I would use a knife for that could possibly cause me to question a lock, I would use a fixed blade.

whp · Apr 13, 2022

Landshark99 said:
Fuuny thing no matter how many people may say the lock back of the Buck is the best, I have never warmed up to my one and only 110. I have it just so I feel like my collection is more complete, but I am not a fan of lock backs. My first real knife was german lock back it sits in the drawer with my Buck collecting dust. I have never had a frame lock, liner lock, compression lock or axis lock fail on me, but I have always used a folder with the idea that it can fold, so always cut away from me. Anything that I would use a knife for that could possibly cause me to question a lock, I would use a fixed blade.

That s the way I use folders. And I ve never had a lockup failure.
But the triad lock has become my favorite for a working knife.

dogstar · Apr 13, 2022

, these threads all end up the same way. Enjoy your knives, fellas.

not2sharp · Apr 13, 2022

RugerNurse said:
What are peoples impressions of the strongest locking type on a folder? Has anyone ever broken one (without doing something they shouldn’t have)?

The strongest lock is a fixed blade. No matter the design dirt, wear, and tork can cause any lock to fail. It shouldn’t matter anyway, since the pressure should be always on the pivot and not the lock. But, if you are going to do something dumb with a knife, go with a fixed blade and you might get to keep the full set of fingers for a little longer.

n2s

Ruger 44 Redhawk · Apr 13, 2022

sharp_edge said:
Totally agree. Buck fanboys are just as ridiculous as CRK fanboys, Spyderco fanboys, and Cold Steel fanboys. See how many enemies I just made by this sentence.

I am actually a fan of these brands But I view them rationally and critically. If a model of a brand is good to me I say it's good to me. Otherwise I say it's bad to me. I am also very interested in hearing other people's experience with them, good experience but in particular also bad experience.

I wasn't being a "fanboy" of Buck. Just stating that an old design like the 110 is a simple and tried and true design and you don't have to spend $200 or more on a folder. The best part of simple knives like the 110 is that they are inexpensive and they work.

sharp_edge · Apr 13, 2022

Ruger 44 Redhawk said:
I wasn't being a "fanboy" of Buck. Just stating that an old design like the 110 is a simple and tried and true design and you don't have to spend $200 or more on a folder. The best part of simple knives like the 110 is that they are inexpensive and they work.

It surely works and for $28 it's a decent knife. However, it is certainly not at the same level of $50 knives like Spyderco Tenacious. Its blade wabbles left and right in closed position and there is no way to disassemble or tune it. There is no way to open and close it one handedly. On top of these it is a boat anchor dragging my pocket and there is no way to clip it to my pocket.

I understand Buck 110's historical importance but that's where things end IMHO. There are far more better choices currently.

Chronovore · Apr 13, 2022

sharp_edge said:
It surely works and for $28 it's a decent knife. However, it is certainly not at the same level of $50 knives like Spyderco Tenacious... There are far more better choices currently.

Yeah, and the Spyderco Tenacious is my go-to example for knives that are radically overpriced for the materials used. Sure, it might be 8Cr13Mov with a relatively good heat treatment, but it's still 8Cr13Mov and FRN for over $50. I've also run into centering issues and blade play on at least a few of them now.

Compare that with some of the better budget knives coming out of China now. For instance, look at the early Civivi releases and current Sencut releases. In the $40-60 range, we've got 9Cr18Mov, 14C28N, and N690 that'll cut circles around 8Cr13Mov. We've got slick action, decent fit and finish, and handle materials including G10, wood, and Micarta.

Of course, most of the knives I'm talking about here are liner locks and you know how that goes. If the wind blows a little too hard, you'll lose a few fingers. If you've got one of those Civivi knives in the better budget steels, you'll lose your whole hand and probably burst into flames.

Srtr · Apr 13, 2022

Idk the strongest lock but the way i see it, if my sebenzas frame lock is in question because of what I'm doing, then I probably have the wrong tool in my hand.

My favorite is the compression lock. Not the strongest though

CHNeal · Apr 13, 2022

This thread needs more spine wacking!

I’ve worked in the trades coming up on 40 years. Used everything from a Buck 303 / 301 slip joint to multiple CRK, Hinder, AlMar, Emerson, Benchmade, Gerber, Leatherman, SOG and most of the garbage below that and I have never had a knife close on me before I wanted it to.
Now granted I’ve always had a tool belt / bag full of proper tools close by and I use knives as knives and screw drivers as screwdrivers and hammers as hammers. But the knife in your pocket always gets worked the toughest as it’s always there when the bag isn’t in the attic with you.
Im not sure what all of you do for a living or what you are using your knives for that require all this going on about locks but I sure have enjoyed reading it.

Ruger 44 Redhawk · Apr 16, 2022

sharp_edge said:
It surely works and for $28 it's a decent knife. However, it is certainly not at the same level of $50 knives like Spyderco Tenacious. Its blade wabbles left and right in closed position and there is no way to disassemble or tune it. There is no way to open and close it one handedly. On top of these it is a boat anchor dragging my pocket and there is no way to clip it to my pocket.

I understand Buck 110's historical importance but that's where things end IMHO. There are far more better choices currently.

Is this like the "1911 is antiquated and heavy and when you run out of ammo you can use it as club" Glock guy response? As I noted earlier, the fact that the 110 is heavy is why I prefer it. I know it's there and it's strong. Go hit the heavy weights at that gym like every man should be doing if that is the case. In addition, no pocket clip and sheath carry is what I prefer now because my pockets don't get destroyed with pocket clips and my pockets are free now. I am purposely regressing to the vintage knives like the 3 dot 110's because they still work flawlessly after all these decades (and no I'm not old). To each his own. But I will reiterate, there is no better value in a folder than a 110 and they are USA made with very well heat treated USA steel. I don't see the point in carrying "art work" costing more than $200 to be used as a tool. It was stupid of me to get caught up in all that "super duper" steel propaganda years ago when I collected all of them.

Chronovore · Apr 16, 2022

Ruger 44 Redhawk said:
Is this like the "1911 is antiquated and heavy and when you run out of ammo you can use it as club" Glock guy response? As I noted earlier, the fact that the 110 is heavy is why I prefer it. I know it's there and it's strong. Go hit the heavy weights at that gym like every man should be doing if that is the case. In addition, no pocket clip and sheath carry is what I prefer now because my pockets don't get destroyed with pocket clips and my pockets are free now. I am purposely regressing to the vintage knives like the 3 dot 110's because they still work flawlessly after all these decades (and no I'm not old). To each his own. But I will reiterate, there is no better value in a folder than a 110 and they are USA made with very well heat treated USA steel. I don't see the point in carrying "art work" costing more than $200 to be used as a tool. It was stupid of me to get caught up in all that "super duper" steel propaganda years ago when I collected all of them.

Speaking of guns, people say that about my steel boat anchors from Ruger too.

At least for folding knives, strength and weight don't necessarily correlate. Some clips will chew up pockets but a lot depends on the clip and the scale texture. Of course, you can always remove a bad clip and carry the knife in a sheath.

I get what you mean about "art work" and I'm definitely guilty of "pocket jewelry" from time to time. Of course, all of my "pocket jewelry" knives are also good users, The curve of diminishing returns is real too. For instance, will my $200ish titanium frame lock in 20CV hold an edge four times longer than my $50ish knives in 14C28N, 9Cr18Mov, or N690? No, and the real-world difference when those budget knives get a good heat treatment is smaller than some people expect. (I'm sure you've noticed that the good heat treatment on Buck knives does a lot for 420HC.) However, things work differently lower on the curve.

Around that $50 mark, there are some very nice knives out there from brands such as Civivi and Kizer. Sure, they are made in China but it's worth noting that Buck outsources on a bunch of stuff too. With a good heat treatment, steels like 9Cr18Mov, 14C28N, and N690 should offer a noticeable upgrade from the best 420HC.