Folding 5 inch blade EDC knife?

And it can be. Along with a clip being added. Pocket carry?? Bah, NO PROBLEM! Pardon the crappy photo though;
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Did you replace the scales?
 
First, you make the error of assuming that the dollar value of a tool is relative to the value of the user's life. By that logic, we should all carry solid platinum, diamond-encrusted crowbars. That's hyperbole there, but it's also the logical extreme of your argument.

Second, there is a point of diminishing returns on knives once you hit the $100 mark or so. Every dollar you spend past that gets you less and less. A $10,000 dollar knife will be hard to tell from a $1,000 knife on the basis of looking at the work done with it. A dependable $10 knife may even produce the exact same results as a $100 knife. May not look as pretty or last for years, but if the steel isn't worthless and you took the time to sharpen it, you'll find you can do the exact same job with it.

Well, an idiot would try to pry with a platinum prybar, since it would be too soft to use. Diamonds? Why would diamonds enhance performance of a tool?

You buy tools that work best for your needs. Whether or not you can afford a tool's cost is a separate issue.

I still don't see your price-point self defense approach.

If you want an EDC that you can use (even if just once) for SD, a serious person would find and study a MA or knife defense system. Then the realistic person would find and purchase knives that would enhance his techniques.

BTW, where do you get your idea that $100 is the max before diminishing returns kick in. Why is that? Do you have statistical data or experience proving this? What about imports v. USA made cost differences, promotional sales, buying used, or inflation? The US dollar has been losing valuation, so have you set a historical date for your $100 valuation? You acknowledge that spending more does improve quality, so why do you think $100 means anything?

Like I said, your price-point approach doesn't make sense.
 
You buy tools that work best for your needs.
Amen.

I still don't see your price-point self defense approach.
If you like Ferraris, but a Toyota Corolla will get you there all the same, why spend the money on a Ferrari? I suppose if money is there to be burned, go for it. Me personally, I like my money.

If you want an EDC that you can use (even if just once) for SD, a serious person would find and study a MA or knife defense system. Then the realistic person would find and purchase knives that would enhance his techniques.
It's more of a backup in this case. Mr. Glock is there as a first responder, this is just in case of the very unlikely eventuality where Mr. Glock fails and cannot be cleared. Or runs out of bullets, which in any sane SD situation is also very unlikely.

BTW, where do you get your idea that $100 is the max before diminishing returns kick in. Why is that? Do you have statistical data or experience proving this? What about imports v. USA made cost differences, promotional sales, buying used, or inflation? The US dollar has been losing valuation, so have you set a historical date for your $100 valuation? You acknowledge that spending more does improve quality, so why do you think $100 means anything?

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Personal experience, and a decent idea for the minimum features and cost it takes to get the job done. Much for the same reason I ignore the advice some give on using a $4,000 dollar Wilson Combat Tactical Super Grade 1911 for concealed carry. Nothing against the gun, it is an *amazing* gun, but every time you pull the trigger on a Glock, it goes bang. A Glock is also 1/8th that price and more dependable in general.

Now the analogy doesn't hold as well for more expensive knives, but in the sense that you don't need to pay much for a very effective knife, it remains true. A basic 440C folder with a 5" blade and a lock that will keep it open in a self-defense situation isn't expensive. Why do you think it should be?
 
Did you replace the scales?

No. I took the original scale's and several grits of wet/dry sandpaper. Spent a couple of nights sanding it to my satisfaction, and then added the pocket clip. At that time I did not have the tools to drill and tap the titanium, so I drilled the holed in only the micarta, drilling them a little oversized, added some JB Weld, the duct tape of the epoxy world, put the clip screws on, and let it dry overnight. It has been solid ever since and this was done in April of 2010. I carried it for several months and that clip never gave me a problem. This is a heck of a folder with a .200" thick N690Co blade that has a convex edge that will pop the hair off! Ti liners are .110" thick and lockup is SOLID , locking up with half, .100", of the blade tang available for any wear that may occur, though so far mine hasn't worn any from where it was out of the box.
 
i know that you said 100 dollars max, and that is usually what i spend on folders... but the htm madd maxx would be an excellent choice. i think they are anywhere from 300 to 500 but im not sure. I just dont think for non trained self defense the handle and blade shapes on the madd maxx and benchmade 530 can be beat. the knife is comfortable in edge up/down reverse, its fast, and easy to use with good penetration but also has plenty of belly which makes them equally versatile for edc. I dont have a madd maxx yet but i use my bm530 all the time for the same things i put my enduras and cqc13 through.

but otherwise if i was going to carry a 5.5in blade around i would just go ahead and go with a fixed blade. they are very discreet worn horizontally on the belt.
 
i know that you said 100 dollars max, and that is usually what i spend on folders... but the htm madd maxx would be an excellent choice. i think they are anywhere from 300 to 500 but im not sure. I just dont think for non trained self defense the handle and blade shapes on the madd maxx and benchmade 530 can be beat. the knife is comfortable in edge up/down reverse, its fast, and easy to use with good penetration but also has plenty of belly which makes them equally versatile for edc. I dont have a madd maxx yet but i use my bm530 all the time for the same things i put my enduras and cqc13 through.

but otherwise if i was going to carry a 5.5in blade around i would just go ahead and go with a fixed blade. they are very discreet worn horizontally on the belt.

The htm madd max is a beautiful knife, and the features are perfect, but that price makes me go
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I've got a Cold Steel Kobun, 5.5" fixed blade, beautiful, but when worn IWB, it jabs into my side when I'm sitting or moving around. I've tried wearing it horizontally on my belt at the 6 o'clock position, but the clip on the sheath isn't oriented for that, and it prints / shows through clothing too much. Something similar that would wear well on a belt underneath an untucked dress shirt would be nice though. The sheath on the Kobun has too much retention for an easy draw as well.
 
No. I took the original scale's and several grits of wet/dry sandpaper. Spent a couple of nights sanding it to my satisfaction, and then added the pocket clip. At that time I did not have the tools to drill and tap the titanium, so I drilled the holed in only the micarta, drilling them a little oversized, added some JB Weld, the duct tape of the epoxy world, put the clip screws on, and let it dry overnight. It has been solid ever since and this was done in April of 2010. I carried it for several months and that clip never gave me a problem. This is a heck of a folder with a .200" thick N690Co blade that has a convex edge that will pop the hair off! Ti liners are .110" thick and lockup is SOLID , locking up with half, .100", of the blade tang available for any wear that may occur, though so far mine hasn't worn any from where it was out of the box.

What's the thickness at the highest point after you sanded it down?
 
Guy, I do not have the knife with me right now, but I think I can tell you about what the thickness is. Measuring one side, including the liner, the highest point is in the middle, the palm swell, and it would be a hair under 1/4". Add the other side in and you are around .50" thick, then the standoffs would make the total around the .75" mark, give or take. It is thinner than it came as I had to take those swells at each end down a bit, but I'm a big fella' and the knife fits great in the loose style pants I wear, so it is not a problem for me to carry it, and with the deep carry clip it rides inside my pocket and goes unnoticed by the populace.
 
Guy, I do not have the knife with me right now, but I think I can tell you about what the thickness is. Measuring one side, including the liner, the highest point is in the middle, the palm swell, and it would be a hair under 1/4". Add the other side in and you are around .50" thick, then the standoffs would make the total around the .75" mark, give or take. It is thinner than it came as I had to take those swells at each end down a bit, but I'm a big fella' and the knife fits great in the loose style pants I wear, so it is not a problem for me to carry it, and with the deep carry clip it rides inside my pocket and goes unnoticed by the populace.

That's actually a lot thinner than I thought it would be. The Boker Great Knight is .5", so .75" isn't bad at all.
 
One downside to living in Texas is no daggers (double-edged knives), otherwise I'd get a Gerber Applegate Fairbairn folding knife (I think it's double-edged, not certain though).


I have the Gerber Combat Folder and it is not double edged. Although the false edge does infact sit underneath the handle when closed, and would really be no problem to grind down. I've heard of several owners who have had the modification done.
Its a beautiful knife and I really enjoy it. Its unfortunate that you can't carry it in Texas.
One problem I have with it is the steel. Gerber doesn't reveal what type of steel they put in their knives and I have a feeling that this is a particularly soft low-carbon and low-chromium content steel as it is the ONLY knife I own that has oxidized in my knife case.
There are even small rust spots.
Not too sure what to do about it. I would try and polish them off, but the etched logos would come off too. And I like the designer's signature on the blade and whatnot.
sigh.

great knife though
 
Pepper spray and running shoes would be better for self defense than an $18 knife. If my understanding is correct a lot of people carry guns for self defense in TX. If you pull a knife and the other person pulls a gun you could be in a lot of trouble.

That being said, Cold Steel is where I'd look.
That's where I've been looking. I just got the serrated Large Voyager Vaquero. It doesn't seem to be stiff at all, but looks like I'll need to order an XL now, because I still have plenty of pocket space for larger carry! I miss the assist of my Kershaw Ken Onion Tactical Blur, but guess I'll just have to practice more. I really like the Triad lock. It's very confidence-inspiring!

I'm new here and I don't know much about knives (which is why I joined the forum) but Fernando "Ferfal" Aguirre's book, "The Modern Survival Manual: Surviving the Economic Collapse" convinced me that I need more than a firearm in my self-defense arsenal. From his blog:

The truth is that within contact distance up to a 3 yard radius, it doesn’t matter if you have a gun, bazooka or bear trap, if the other guy has a knife, like it or not you’re in a knife fight and odds are not in your favor. And if the blade is already drawn, you are in a world of trouble. The Tueller Drill extends that range to 7 yards, so within 3 yards you have almost no chance. Most likely, you’ll get cut, and if you have poor training or none at all, you’ll get killed.
http://ferfal.blogspot.com/2010/04/dont-bring-knife-to-gunfight.html

Ferfal lives in an environment full of lessons and practical experience (post-crash Argentina). He's also convinced me that the immensely popular tanto folders are not the worst folders for self defense, but they are not the best either. I'm amazed at how few fully serrated, deep-bellied S-blades are available when there's a mind-numbing number of tanto blades on the market!

-Cal
 
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The truth is that within contact distance up to a 3 yard radius, it doesn’t matter if you have a gun, bazooka or bear trap, if the other guy has a knife, like it or not you’re in a knife fight and odds are not in your favor. And if the blade is already drawn, you are in a world of trouble. The Tueller Drill extends that range to 7 yards, so within 3 yards you have almost no chance. Most likely, you’ll get cut, and if you have poor training or none at all, you’ll get killed.


And this is why I keep anyone who looks like they might be the stabbity sort at a distance. If someone has a knife out and is within arm's reach and has even a vague idea of what they're doing, you tend to be screwed.

A big part in that is not going where people like that tend to be found, not doing stupid things, and not wandering aimlessly after sunset.

If I am somewhere after sunset, alone, in an area I'm not familiar with, I tend to walk in the median in between the roads, or as far away as possible from buildings / places where people could be concealed, or in a fashion that would require someone to have to cover lots of ground in open view before they got to me. Blind corners also give me unpleasant feelings.

I think avoiding trouble tends to play a far greater part in overall survival than most give it credit for. Knives are great, but not having to use them in self-defense is even better.
 
I live in Texas too and I have to say even if you had a dagger you would never get in trouble for it, no one i have ever met cares about knives and that includes people of the law
 
In the above case, and since Hark didn't suggest it, based on the picture from the first post, how about the HTM Madd Maxx? :D
 
Now *that's* a knife.:eek: I was looking up info on that piece and I should have known......led me right to here. The liner lock part though kind of worries me.
 
You buy tools that work best for your needs. Whether or not you can afford a tool's cost is a separate issue.

I still don't see your price-point self defense approach.

If you want an EDC that you can use (even if just once) for SD, a serious person would find and study a MA or knife defense system. Then the realistic person would find and purchase knives that would enhance his techniques.

Like I said, your price-point approach doesn't make sense.[/QUOTE]
(Some sentences snipped)


What if you have to ditch the knife in a hurry (such a situation can arise).
But I do agree that you should buy the most durable tool for the job.
;);)
 
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