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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
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For the attention of Mr. Emerson - inquiry regarding EKI's email customer service.
- Thread starter chipdouglas
- Start date
that is funny because i just recently emailed eki several times and through 3 or 4 emails they answered every question i had (the cqc 13's swedge was added in 2009 for example).
Now my knife's lock arrived to me out of spec because it is new and the lock is 95% if waved open or flicked hard and 60-70% opened gently with the lock occasionally getting stuck (though that is happening less often just like they told me through email). but i sent in my warranty card and whatever is wrong im sure that they will fix it in a timely manner. Im also hoping to get the thicker liners they are using now for aesthetic reasons. but i will chime in after the repairs.
im starting to think that either people are contacting the Emerson that makes micowaves or that people are just out to get EKI because of their slogan.
Now my knife's lock arrived to me out of spec because it is new and the lock is 95% if waved open or flicked hard and 60-70% opened gently with the lock occasionally getting stuck (though that is happening less often just like they told me through email). but i sent in my warranty card and whatever is wrong im sure that they will fix it in a timely manner. Im also hoping to get the thicker liners they are using now for aesthetic reasons. but i will chime in after the repairs.
im starting to think that either people are contacting the Emerson that makes micowaves or that people are just out to get EKI because of their slogan.
wolfmann601
Gone, but not forgotton. RIP Ira.
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I think your issues are complex enough that the true essence gets lost when communicated via E-mail. I don't own any Emersons any longer (lost my Guru status years ago) but I feel confident that EKI does their best to try to make each and every consumer happy.
In any event however, you are entitled to a knife free of defects and poor workmanship and that must be addressed by EKI ASAP
In any event however, you are entitled to a knife free of defects and poor workmanship and that must be addressed by EKI ASAP
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I agree with what you wrote above, in that the true essence gets lost through the complexity of my issues.
Essentially, what I'd like to see is more consistency in the locking mechanism - meaning that my Traveler should have a beefy lock bar to match the overall beefy construction of the knife. Looking at my Traveler is the best exemple of a love-hate relationship, meaning that overall it's a very sturdy knife and the design is just top-notch etc. etc. but the liner lock or lock bar is weak - I find that this last aspect clashes with the overall sturdy or tactical construction of the knife. Unless the knife is meant to be a small pocket knife with a tactical look to it only. Perhaps this is where most of the confusion lies.
Also, my Traveler or CQC-7 for instance, are both righty, but I'm a lefty - the funny thing is clenching on the handle of my Traveler through using my left hand further secures the blade in the open position, as the inside part of my index finger presses against the lock bar - since I'm a lefty, then that's fine. However, as far as I know, all of my Emerson knives are righty (being used by a lefty - that's ok, as I knew it at the time of purchase). Now, when I clench on the handle of either my Traveler or my CQC-7 through using my right hand, the opposite of what I've described above happens - that is, the inside part of my right hand's index finger actually presses against the lock bar, which I can either hear and/or feel somewhat disengaging the lock - I've been able to disengage the lock a number of times on my Traveler doin exactly what I've described - so far as the CQC-7, the lock bar is both thicker and stiffer so I haven't quite been able to disengage the lock on it.
In the end, I don't think Mr. Emerson can do much to help me with the above, because what I've described all through these postings aren't actual defects - the knives come this way out of the box. Let me say this though ; I wish all EKIs were built like my CQC-8 - I have no complaint so far as he liner lock on that one - the lock bar is thick and strong enough to match the overall sturdy construction of the knife.
I just feel somewhat disapointed that the one maker that I like the most has those issues I raised above.
So what Mr.Emerson and I need to do is to meet up and cry over this while having a few beers and hugging each other
LOL. A little humor sure can't hurt.a guy on youtube called neptuneknives had a whole list of problems with his cqc 7v. literally just about anything that could be wrong was. he made a really good point about how blade centering can affect lock up.
if you break in your lock at a certain angle when the pivot loosens the angle changes and you have to break it in again
if you break in your lock at a certain angle when the pivot loosens the angle changes and you have to break it in again
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Makes sense to me - thanks for the pointer - I'll look him up on You Tube.
In my opinion, he's an idiot. I don't buy for a second that he didn't cause most of the issues with that knife. Have you seen any of his other "reviews"? He's clueless.
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Roger that.
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That guy complains about everything under the sun, he has also been banned from here multiple times. Maroon is a good description of him to be quite honest, alhought idiot is quite correct as well.
Chip, do yourself a favor and call the number given by 5.56, it can't cost that much to call from Canada to the states. The reason you might be getting the run around is the verbose nature of your posts. I honestly don't think that many people have the time or desire to sit and read what amounts to a dissertation on your experiences. I am not discounting your observations, but for the sake of getting things moving forward, be brief, get to the point, and stick with the facts. Call them, and be done with this.
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I can't disagree with you regarding the verbose nature of my posts - we are who we are, but I'll admit being the way I am has caused me a number of issues - that of course doesn't mean I'm wrong, but people just don't have the time like you said. However, according to that maroon colored guy, Ernest Emerson would've told him never to stab with any of his folder - if that's accurate, then problem solved - thou shall not stab.
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I assume some of you reading this thread know a good deal about Emerson knives, so I'll ask you a few questions - I know it'd be best for me to phone EKI, but I thought why not ask it here, since like I said, many probably are in a position to answer the following queries.
1) Is it accurate that 154CM steel is prone to chipping ? I've read about this every now and then, but in fairness, I don't know what those who wrote about this did to their knife.
2) What is expected to happen once a liner has traveled all the way across the blade tang ? I have a brand new 2011 combat karambit whose liner is past 50% - so far the lock is strong as it should be. Normally, one shouldn't ''have to'' even think about sending a liner lock knife in for repair. I don't know how many knives need to be sent in for liner lock issues though, so I won't speculate.
3) Any of you have a combat karambit ? If so, how strong is the tip ? I think any such fine tip is prone to chipping or breaking is used inappropriately, but I'm wondering about the toughness of 154CM.
Thanks
1) Is it accurate that 154CM steel is prone to chipping ? I've read about this every now and then, but in fairness, I don't know what those who wrote about this did to their knife.
2) What is expected to happen once a liner has traveled all the way across the blade tang ? I have a brand new 2011 combat karambit whose liner is past 50% - so far the lock is strong as it should be. Normally, one shouldn't ''have to'' even think about sending a liner lock knife in for repair. I don't know how many knives need to be sent in for liner lock issues though, so I won't speculate.
3) Any of you have a combat karambit ? If so, how strong is the tip ? I think any such fine tip is prone to chipping or breaking is used inappropriately, but I'm wondering about the toughness of 154CM.
Thanks
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1) Is it accurate that 154CM steel is prone to chipping ? I've read about this every now and then, but in fairness, I don't know what those who wrote about this did to their knife.
The common sense answer is, yes it will chip and no it will not. There are some variables involved, steel hardness, what you are cutting, initial angle of the secondary bevel, etc. if the steel is over hardened, it becomes brittle (same of most steels used in cutlery), if you try and keep the use realistic and within it's recommended Parameters, 154CM is a great steel.
2) What is expected to happen once a liner has traveled all the way across the blade tang ? I have a brand new 2011 combat karambit whose liner is past 50% - so far the lock is strong as it should be. Normally, one shouldn't ''have to'' even think about sending a liner lock knife in for repair. I don't know how many knives need to be sent in for liner lock issues though, so I won't speculate.
The common sense answer, again.... Any mechanical device that contains moving parts will wear over time. It's a natural occurrence, this includes liner locks. Since they obviously do not repair themselves, yes you will need to send them in. That is what the warranty is there for "Limited Lifetime" or whatver the nomenclature is. No one knows how many knives require attention for warranty issues except the manufacturer.
3) Any of you have a combat karambit ? If so, how strong is the tip ? I think any such fine tip is prone to chipping or breaking is used inappropriately, but I'm wondering about the toughness of 154CM.
I have never owned a Combat Karambit. The knife is not necessarily designed for utility work rather for self defense or offensive purposes (the name kind of says it all). The short anwer again is yes, ANYTHING can break when used inappropriately, again with the common sense, I know I know.. Wile 154CM is a fine steel used by many makers across the board, it is not indestructible. In the context of Emerson knives, my experience is that it sharpens quickly and holds an edge commesurate with my expectations.
Thanks
For the record, I own the following Emersons, and I like them just fine. I use the CQC10 almost daily, carried it for 2 months straight. Great knife and I want to buy more
Gentleman Jim
Super CQC8
Horseman x2
A100 x2
CQC-10
Automatic CQC7
CQC-7 Mini
Many stories of those tips breaking. A reinforced-tip grind (think of an inverted spanto) would mitigate that. I traded for a super SF with a broken tip, and reprofiled it myself.
Personally though what annoys me more is the lack of a full ring spacer, which lends itself to either of the liners peeling away from the G10 scale. I do not think that is characteristic of a 200-250$ knife, especially if less attention was spent towards finish, whereas it's hard to justify the cost with such cost cutting maneuvers (partial spacer, 300 series SS nonlocking liner instead of Ti).
154CM isn't that prone to chipping, though Emerson knives aren't run to the highest RC. Being softer, they should actually be tougher. The only advantage 154CM has as an ingot steel (versus recent powder steels) is that its less likely to shear when flexed to extreme angles, but who here pries with a folder anyways?
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You're a very patient man, as I wouldn't go to the trouble of reprofiling a blade tip which I assume should already be that way from factory, especially at the price point, which for me was $219 cad.
I hear you on the lack of a full ring spacer - I agree that for that price point, it should have a full ring spacer.
Ok, that's what I thought regarding lower RC steels - however, like you said, a knife isn't meant to be a pry bar - I never ever pry with any of my knives, except for the cheapest of them - those I know who can take it, as some prying job are submitted to very low lateral strain.
More and more, my relationship with Mr. Emerson knives is a love-hate one - very sad, because so many things about them are right.
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Yes, I agree it's all about keeping the use of a knife realistic. So, in light of what you wrote, it means that so fas as lateral stress is concerned, 154CM would trump S30V steel, right ? Though S30V steel appears to keep an edge for longer a time than 154CM - correct me if mistaken.
I agree with what you wrote regarding movings parts wearing over time, but I haven't heard of Spyderco military needing to be sent in for the liner lock to be fixed. I seem to keep hearing that about Emerson knives - am I wrong about this ? I don't know, but I'm going on what I read on forums. I have reasons to think not all liner locks will require maintenance over time.
Regarding the tip of the Emerson Combat karambit, it should have been made stronger - apparently, there are many stories of broken tips on that model - while the needle sharp tip would be very effective in an SD scenario, I cannot help but wonder why it's not been designed to be stronger while retaining totally decent shearing capability.
In the end, in my opinion Emerson knives have great designs, but with some not so minor flaws. I can't make Mr. Emerson improve on some of his designs, so what's next is whether I sell them all or bear and grin it.
Thanks for your responses.
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You are correct, the S30V will hold an edge a bit longer, the trade off is that it Lateral stress is something that would definitely be a good test, I would be curious to see the results. My impressions are that the 154CM would flex a little more. The nice thing about 154CM is that if you hit something hard while cutting, the probability of a rolled edge vs a chipped out edge is higher. In my view that would be a better outcome.
The issue with the liners wearing between the Military and the regular Emerson is possibly the Titanium liner can and will wear much faster than the steel liner of the Military. What I really do like and think is a great innovation is the floating stop pin. Hard impacts from repeatedly waving a knife would destroy other knives.
I've seen a lot of pictures of the Combat Karambit tip, and it is thin, my thought was to get a better purchase on the material being cut. I don't know how much the chipped or broken tips can be attributed to abuse or misuse versus a legitimate use. Some people easily confuse the definitions. I'd say that if you like the knives, and they are functional and serve you well, keep them. :thumbup:
The issue with the liners wearing between the Military and the regular Emerson is possibly the Titanium liner can and will wear much faster than the steel liner of the Military. What I really do like and think is a great innovation is the floating stop pin. Hard impacts from repeatedly waving a knife would destroy other knives.
I've seen a lot of pictures of the Combat Karambit tip, and it is thin, my thought was to get a better purchase on the material being cut. I don't know how much the chipped or broken tips can be attributed to abuse or misuse versus a legitimate use. Some people easily confuse the definitions. I'd say that if you like the knives, and they are functional and serve you well, keep them. :thumbup:
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I sure like the knives, but I hate the fact that my titanium liners will sooner or later need maintenance - I really hate that aspect and it is the one aspect which causes me to consider selling them all and getting something else with no or very low maintenance.
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Ok I think I know what you are saying. Ernie uses Ti for liners to save weight and also I think with Ti liners the wear is only on the liners and not he tang of the blade. When you have SS liners, yes, the liners may last longer but when it needs to be replaced, the tang of the blade is also worn.
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Good point that you made above. Any idea how long any Ti lock bar should last with average use before it actually needs maintenance ? I have two brand new combat karambit - they've never been used - one locks early and the next locks at %0% or perhaps a tiny bit more. When I sell that knife, even though it is brand new, I have to make this known - I don't like this one bit.