This is just another of those things (and there are many) where there are two camps of thought, and it is unlikely to ever change. It differs from most discussions of its type ever-so-slightly in that the proponents of a blade forged to shape are not saying that their method is superior. Instead, we are merely presenting a case that it is most definitely not inferior, nor is it an easy or convenient way to forge a blade.
I'd like to toss out some more food for thought. As Jerry Fisk pointed out, the choil that is shaped like a little half moon can tend to hang a bit on those rare occasions that the knife is inserted in something right up to the guard. However even in this case it is not "stuck" where you'd have to pry it out, it's just a little annoying "snag". I might mention that most of the hunters I know don't use that area anyway. The part that see's the action is the last 1/3 to 1/2 of the blade.
But, do we write off every blade forged to shape (which is going to drop the edge naturally) as inferior by design and grind the edge off so that it's flush with the bottom of the ricasso? Heck, if you shove the blade into an animal right up to your knuckles, the guard is going to hang. Shall we assume that having a guard is an inferior design choice and do away with that as well?
The answer to the guard questions is "no". Let's see, what can we do about this little annoyance that can occur on occasion with respect to a dropped choil. The answer was simple. Here's an example of a spear point utility blade that is a general purpose knife, but could be used as a hunter:
Bingo! Problem resolved. As I stated earlier, on a dropped edge / dropped choil, I refer to that little area protruding downward, just below and in front of the bottom of the ricasso as a "heel". It has been slightly radiused and cants just a bit forward towards the tip. No snags or hangs. The material (or hide) just rolls right off the thing like a greased wheel.
One other thing I'd like to mention is that if I had taken this same knife and ground the edge flush with the bottom of the ricasso after taking the time to forge in the bevels, I'd have had two brand new problems.
The first being that now I would have a much thicker edge. I'd have to spend more time at the grinder. For this to be an effective cutting instrument I'd have to not only thin out the edge area, I'd have to re-work the entire bevel on both sides to come up with a good workable blade / edge geometry.
The second problem would be that I'd have now narrowed the blade a great deal, which makes the guard protrude farther below the cutting edge, and reduces my effective cutting area for slicing type cuts on a flat surface such as cutting board. Sure, I could shorten the guard to give more available cutting edge, but I'd also be decreasing the effectiveness of my guard.
Believe me folks, like a lot of my teachers, I think about this stuff. One of the reasons I can't pump out hundreds of knives a year is that I do spend a lot about thinking about design, flow, weight, balance, blade and edge geometry, etc. And just thinking about it isn't enough. A lot of time has to be spent actually putting this stuff to the test to see if it's a workable idea or just something that sounds good on paper but fails miserably in actual use.
Regarding the dropped choil possibly being a weak point on the blade, well that's just not the case. Again, let's just think about it for a moment. The ABS teaches forging to shape -- right? If the dropped choil was inherently some weak point, I strongly suspect we'd be seeing a lot less Journeyman and Master Smith makers. The darned things would be snapping off at the area in question during the performance test. That's not where they break when they do break. Whether the blade drops below the ricasso or not is pretty much irrelevant. If that area becomes a weak point, it's for some other reason, not because of the drop.
As far as whether the forged to shape blade is an easy and convenient way to create a blade, well I've already expressed my opinion of that. In fact, that is the only reason I got in on this thread to begin with. But, since I keep trying to toss in a few tidbits to back up what I'm saying, let me ramble on a bit further.
I'm late getting back to this thread because I've been gone since last Friday. This past weekend we had the Spring Piney Woods Hammer-In at the Bill Moran School of Bladesmithing in Old Washington, Arkansas.
Both days Jim Crowell and I were teaching forging. Yes, forging to shape. This was not a demo where we were doing the forging for a one hour class. This was all day both days, and the students were doing the forging under our guidance. These folks were brand new to the idea. So new in fact, that when I'd say "Don't get the ricasso up on the anvil", I often had to tell them what a ricasso was.
Now, which part would you think was easiest for the students? I'll tell you. Forging the tip on the blade and getting a basic profile. What part do you think was the toughest? I'll tell you. Dropping the choil and forging in the bevels. We had some that began to take on the shape of a banana. Some started twisting up like a cork screw. Some had squashed, wedge-shaped ricasso's. We talked them through fixing these problems when we could catch them in time.
But the whole point is, whether you are a completely green newbie who doesn't know what a ricasso or a tang is, or a seasoned professional Master Smith, the forged to shape blade is not an easy or convenient way of doing things.