G-pig's aforementioned picture dump thread

[G-pig]

So as some of you might know, I was running a Windows ME (from 1999 or 2000) which nothing worked on. I havent been able to upload photos in over 6 months. M3mphis offered me this fancy superb laptop which he didnt need anymore, and I have finally managed to make a dent in the backlog of photos from the past months. here is a little taste.

Doin a little hewing

Bottom to top; Unknown Maine 3 3/4 pound oak handle (I think its spiller or Emerson stevens), Spiller 3 pound, 31 1/2 inch handle (not made by me), Emerson Stevens 3 1/4 pound hand carved handle but not by me (this one is sweeeeet), Rixford 3 pound on 29 inch handle traded with vintageaxe for (very nice)

l to r (all hand carved maple handles 3 3/4 pound double bit maine pattern, 31 inch handle, 3 1/4 pound Triple diamond maine single bit, 30 inch offset handle, 2 pound snow & nealley 28 inch maple handle (love this one), john king 3 3/4 pound, 30 inch handle, Walters black diamond, I think this one is around 3 pound with about a 31 inch handle (?), last is a 2.5 pound Snow & nealley on a 26" handle.

Anyone like planes?

or augers? (got more T-handle augers ill snap pics of)

draw knives?

How about a couple chisels? I like chisels =)

 

[Steve Tall]

Great photos. How'd you get so many nice vintage tools? Oh yeah, you live in Maine.

 

[G-pig]

Great photos. How'd you get so many nice vintage tools? Oh yeah, you live in Maine.

I also started at age 13, devoted almost all of my attention to hand tools and hand labor and stuck with it on a consistent basis. Also made some good friendships and contacts in the tool world. most of them love to see young people who are interested or even "knowledgeable", being mostly older folks themselves.

 

[garry3]

Why do I expect to see a treadle powered lathe in the back ground?
Nice stuff you have there. Its interesting how the axes are different from around the country.
Do you use any hafted scrapers? The kind that look like spoke shaves.

 

[G-pig]

Why do I expect to see a treadle powered lathe in the back ground?
Nice stuff you have there. Its interesting how the axes are different from around the country.
Do you use any hafted scrapers? The kind that look like spoke shaves.

I only ever used broken glass as a scraper. Been meaning to rig up a pole lathe for a while too, havent gotten around to it yet. i make chisel handles etc with a hatchet, convex sole spoke shave and rasps. works good enough for me needs.

 

[garry3]

Are you sawing your handles out first? Going old school with a stave and a hatchet?
Glass can work well. So can a knife ect. I have a couple really nice old hafted scrapers. I struggle to get them to perform. About ready to change blades. I use the steel hand held scrapers quite often. Its not for all wood but it works great for the species I work with. If its a good turning wood it will work well with a srcaper it seems.

 

[G-pig]

Are you sawing your handles out first? Going old school with a stave and a hatchet?
Glass can work well. So can a knife ect. I have a couple really nice old hafted scrapers. I struggle to get them to perform. About ready to change blades. I use the steel hand held scrapers quite often. Its not for all wood but it works great for the species I work with. If its a good turning wood it will work well with a srcaper it seems.

With a band saw? Hell no! I went over my process a little bit in this thread here:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/919061-How-I-make-axe-handles

my process has changed a little bit since then but its still a descriptive read.

 

[garry3]

With a band saw? Hell no! I went over my process a little bit in this thread here:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/919061-How-I-make-axe-handles

my process has changed a little bit since then but its still a descriptive read.

Easy there G-Pig. There is more ways to saw things out than band saws.
Thanks for the link. That explains things pretty well.
The reason I asked is because I became involved in making self bows after working for years doing carpentry work. It was like complete freedom. No plan to follow. No need for a tape measure. It can all be done by eye. I do have a band saw(forgive me), but I prefer to set down with a hatchet and start hewing. It is very relaxing. I have made handles the same way. Its really amazing how close you can get things with just an hatchet.

 

[Square_peg]

Duuuuude!!!!!!!!!!!!

And for Memphis, too.

Can't wait to see the handled augers. If you have an extra in the 1" to 1-1/2" inch range then I would be very interested.

 

[Square_peg]

I do have a band saw(forgive me), but I prefer to set down with a hatchet and start hewing. It is very relaxing. I have made handles the same way. Its really amazing how close you can get things with just an hatchet.

You're in my happy place.

A hatchet, a hunk of wood and a bottle of good bourbon. Life is good.

 

[G-pig]

Duuuuude!!!!!!!!!!!!

And for Memphis, too.

Can't wait to see the handled augers. If you have an extra in the 1" to 1-1/2" inch range then I would be very interested.

I can look for an extra 1 inch brace bit if you like. I only have one that is a 1 1/2 inch, which isnt even in particularly great shape. I will keep my eye out though. The other two are 2 inch and an old hand forged 3 inch, which is a beast.

Ive been hewing up a storm the last few weeks. 3 6x6 timbers in the 8.5 to 9.5 range, some little roundwood floor joists, and a few odd pieces. Going to start falling aspens later this week- i hope to shoot some footage of falling the trees with a crosscut and axe.

 

[Square_peg]

I have brace bits. I'm looking for handled augers. Only one I have so far is a 2-1/2". I'd be interested in the 2" if the metal is salvageable and the screw is decent. I don't mind replacing the handle if necessary but it would be nice to at least see what the vintage handle looked like so I know what to emulate.

 

[Steve Tall]

...
Can't wait to see the handled augers. If you have an extra in the 1" to 1-1/2" inch range then I would be very interested.

If you can't find them elsewhere, Sportsmans Guide has a Danish military surplus auger, 1-1/2" bore (takes a 1-1/8" handle) for $18 or $20. (They call it a "large hand drill")

 

[G-pig]

Easy there G-Pig. There is more ways to saw things out than band saws.
Thanks for the link. That explains things pretty well.
The reason I asked is because I became involved in making self bows after working for years doing carpentry work. It was like complete freedom. No plan to follow. No need for a tape measure. It can all be done by eye. I do have a band saw(forgive me), but I prefer to set down with a hatchet and start hewing. It is very relaxing. I have made handles the same way. Its really amazing how close you can get things with just an hatchet.

Definitely share the sentiment. I think quality and character of the work improves when you do it your way as well.

I have brace bits. I'm looking for handled augers. Only one I have so far is a 2-1/2". I'd be interested in the 2" if the metal is salvageable and the screw is decent. I don't mind replacing the handle if necessary but it would be nice to at least see what the vintage handle looked like so I know what to emulate.

The 2" is a beaut, but i have to keep it for my log building. I have come across others but didnt pick them up. only reason i bought that 3" for example, was that it was 2 dollars and hand forged. I honestly couldnt leave it behind.

 

[garry3]

You're in my happy place.

A hatchet, a hunk of wood and a bottle of good bourbon. Life is good.

Your close, its Mezcal. And it is a happy place!
As a side note. You notice I don't need a knife on that table to slice my limes? Not all of my axes are pretty, but there is not a one of them that is dull.

Its a great way to work. Much the same as you make handles.

 

[John Frankl]

This is just a great, great thread.

Thanks to all!

 

[Square_peg]

If you can't find them elsewhere, Sportsmans Guide has a Danish military surplus auger, 1-1/2" bore (takes a 1-1/8" handle) for $18 or $20. (They call it a "large hand drill")

Thanks for the tip. I just ordered one.

I've got some locust available locally and I would like to try some pegging work.

 

[VintageAxe]

You did that Rixford justice, man. Bummer you're so far off, I believe I could learn a thing or two hanging out around you. Love your chisel collection. I used to have a couple sources for cheap cheap cheap old chisels, but many of them are in need of handles. I'm guessing some of yours have new handles, what kind of wood is ideal for that? I have a wood turner friend who is retiring soon and I'm hoping to hit him up for some.

 

[G-pig]

You did that Rixford justice, man. Bummer you're so far off, I believe I could learn a thing or two hanging out around you. Love your chisel collection. I used to have a couple sources for cheap cheap cheap old chisels, but many of them are in need of handles. I'm guessing some of yours have new handles, what kind of wood is ideal for that? I have a wood turner friend who is retiring soon and I'm hoping to hit him up for some.

Thanks. Its a great little axe, ill snap some more pictures of it, took a nice filing.

Most of these chisels were picked up for 3-10 dollars with either no handles or very poor handles. I have had to work on almost all of them quite a bit which was good perspective on how they cut and how I like them tuned up. I used some Locust, Sugar Maple, Ash etc for handles. Not sure about how they hold up since I havent had a chance to really beat on them yet.

A lot of the wood working fetish type fellas insist that all chisels have to have perfectly flat backs. I am just not sure about this. there are times when you need a flat back, but at the same time, almost every vintage chisel Ive come across had a back that was not flat, and I dont mean just sharpened on the back by a moron. like a gentle curve. I think it was intentional. And if you are doing super meticulous wood working (which I am most definitely not doing), I think it might well be fine,

 

[garry3]

G-Pig, I am not an expect on chisels by any means. And the flat back thing, I don't think it needs to be flat like the sole of a plane. Rather it neads to be flat in width.
And this is true enough. With the chisel point it will never be real sharp with out the back being trued up also. Heck there are old chisels out there in all kinds of configurations, curved backs ect. When I sharpen a chisel I always hit the back also. I do the same with hewing hatchets that have a single bevel to the bit.