GB lock failed!~!

Medic1210 said:
I wasn't assuming anything. I was just copying exactly what you said. Your first sentence said "While I was twisting, the lock failed." That sounds pretty cut and dry, leaving little to be assumed. Then later, you said, "I didn't even start twisting when it failed." Correct me if I'm wrong, but that's two completely different stories. That is what I was commenting on.




Obviously. This whole thread proves it.



Ahh, when all else fails, just resort to sarcasm and name calling to try and distract folks from the real issue. For the record, I never said or indicated I didn't believe you cut yourself. I was just pointing out your discrepancies to help you understand why some folks aren't so quick to jump on the lock failure bandwagon. When you specifically say you were twisting the knife when the lock fails, and then argue with folks who say the twisting action is what caused it to close by saying you weren't even twisting when it failed, someone's gonna wonder if you're being completely honest with your details.
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good post :thumbup:
 
Medic1210 said:
So you mentioned the bumper was soft enough to push a pen through it, why didn't you just do that if you only needed a small pilot hole? I can only imagine that if you had to press hard enough on the knife to make a hole that you disengaged the lock, it must not have been as soft plastic as you claim. Just sayin'.
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If you were not trying to be a smarta$$ and thought about it for a second, you'd realize that this is a silly remark right there. I didn't even need to use a knife, pen or drill. I could have just forced the screw in with a screw driver (which I have done numerous times). Since as I said, the bumper is SOFT. But don't listen to me. Keep assuming all kind of random cr@p about me, and keep them useless posts coming!

I could have done it properly (drill), or use any other tool at hand that would be more suitable than the GB. I used my Spyderco because I like using my EDC knives. I even use my EDC knives when cooking, though I've got plenty of high quality cooking knives, which I also like to use once in a while.

To the guy who posted the awl of the SAK. I KNOW I COULD HAVE USED A MORE SUITABLE TOOL. I simply CHOSE to do it with the GB, kind of just to see how good it would handle the job at hand.

It is really amazing to see how many people miss the whole point. How many people try to prove people wrong without knowing WTF is going on. You are entitled to your opinion, so be it. I am not trying to make anybody think that the GB is a bad knife, or that it will fail under this kind of use. I just told it how it is. Read it, take whatever you want from it, and move on. If you have nothing useful to add, or trying to "straighten" me out, just DON'T. I will keep using my knives for these kind of "unsuitable" tasks, because I like it. I learned to be careful with even my high end folders (Said that what, 3 times already?!).
Also, usually, if I don't believe something I read, I just lose interest and never revisit the thread. Why don't you? I'm tired of trying to make myself sound truthful because some smarty pants who thinks he knows all and smarter than the "obviously dumb" me. Eat a cookie.
 
I tried to push the liner lock to the right, using my finger nail. It seems to move slightly, creating a more secure lockup (or so it seems). When I do the same thing using a flat head screw driver, I notice that the lock travels even farther, way farther, creating a superb lockup! It won't fail under the regular testing or when spine-tapped (whacked?!) However, when unlocked and opened, the liner won't travel farther than it usually does (the position in which it is very easy to make the lock fail)
It makes me wonder, if I keep repeating the process of pushing the liner deeper into the tang, will I make it worse or can I actually create enough even wear so that the knife will lock solid??? :confused:
Any advices are welcome. Please keep in mind, though, that I know it is better to send the knife to Spyderco, but you have to realize that I hate this kind of things, and I usually try to do anything I can (without screwing around too much) in order to fix my knife issues myself. What do you guys think?
 
Razorsharp1986 said:
I tried to push the liner lock to the right, using my finger nail. It seems to move slightly, creating a more secure lockup (or so it seems). When I do the same thing using a flat head screw driver, I notice that the lock travels even farther, way farther, creating a superb lockup! It won't fail under the regular testing or when spine-tapped (whacked?!) However, when unlocked and opened, the liner won't travel farther than it usually does (the position in which it is very easy to make the lock fail)
It makes me wonder, if I keep repeating the process of pushing the liner deeper into the tang, will I make it worse or can I actually create enough even wear so that the knife will lock solid??? :confused:
Any advices are welcome. Please keep in mind, though, that I know it is better to send the knife to Spyderco, but you have to realize that I hate this kind of things, and I usually try to do anything I can (without screwing around too much) in order to fix my knife issues myself. What do you guys think?
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Then it might help if you hit it with a hammer.
 
darthsoaker said:
Then it might help if you hit it with a hammer.
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It would really help if people would not post absurd remarks. :thumbdn:
I'm going to try and break the liner further in by pushing it deeper once in a while and opening and closing it many times. We'll see if it can fix the problem moderately. I think it is an actual possibility. I know it ain't as cool as hitting it with a hammer, but I'll leave these kind of methods to the soaking star wars fans... :jerkit:
 
Razorsharp1986 said:
I tried to push the liner lock to the right, using my finger nail. It seems to move slightly, creating a more secure lockup (or so it seems). When I do the same thing using a flat head screw driver, I notice that the lock travels even farther, way farther, creating a superb lockup! It won't fail under the regular testing or when spine-tapped (whacked?!) However, when unlocked and opened, the liner won't travel farther than it usually does (the position in which it is very easy to make the lock fail)
It makes me wonder, if I keep repeating the process of pushing the liner deeper into the tang, will I make it worse or can I actually create enough even wear so that the knife will lock solid??? :confused:
Any advices are welcome. Please keep in mind, though, that I know it is better to send the knife to Spyderco, but you have to realize that I hate this kind of things, and I usually try to do anything I can (without screwing around too much) in order to fix my knife issues myself. What do you guys think?
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STR has a good bit about liner lock engagement, etc in one of his stickys. He mentions about liner lock engagement, etc about halfway down this post:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4848597&postcount=2

Sorry if someone's referred to this before - I only lightly skimmed most of this thread.
 
jylong_away said:
STR has a good bit about liner lock engagement, etc in one of his stickys. He mentions about liner lock engagement, etc about halfway down this post:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4848597&postcount=2

Sorry if someone's referred to this before - I only lightly skimmed most of this thread.
Click to expand...

I've read that before. The first test mentioned by STR, is the way I usually test my folders.
STR:
"Hold your knife so if the lock defeats you won't get cut just as I'm doing here in the link. You owe it to your fingers to know not suspect or blindly trust that the locking mechanism on your folding knife works as it should. You don't have to cock your wrist as I did here in this photo. I'm just doing that for my wife to get it in the shot easier. Hold it with both hands and using your strong hand with the blade resting on that index finger knuckle simply push up on the spine of your blade holding the body tight so its steady keeping all body parts clear in the event the blade snaps shut. If you feel it is more comfortable to hold the knife with the lock sideways or up or down from the way I do in this picture and simply push down on the spine rather than up then do that. Its the same test in the end and it really does not matter which way you put pressure on the spine of the blade. The idea here is to load the blade. Sometimes if I have a blade to test I'll put on some gloves to make it easier to really muscle it."

My GB failed that test. But the problem was I did not test that knife before I used it to attempt and drill the hole in the bumper. If I have, I would see it fails and would avoid using it for such a task. I got too comfortable, and confident in Spyderco's locks that I haven't conducted such testing in a while. However, I'm back to constantly using this method to test my folders. Together with spine taps (second method as mentioned by STR), it provides a rather proven method to check lock safety/reliability (I hope so, at elast)
 
Razorsharp1986 said:
I've read that before. The first test mentioned by STR, is the way I usually test my folders.
STR:
"Hold your knife so if the lock defeats you won't get cut just as I'm doing here in the link. You owe it to your fingers to know not suspect or blindly trust that the locking mechanism on your folding knife works as it should. You don't have to cock your wrist as I did here in this photo. I'm just doing that for my wife to get it in the shot easier. Hold it with both hands and using your strong hand with the blade resting on that index finger knuckle simply push up on the spine of your blade holding the body tight so its steady keeping all body parts clear in the event the blade snaps shut. If you feel it is more comfortable to hold the knife with the lock sideways or up or down from the way I do in this picture and simply push down on the spine rather than up then do that. Its the same test in the end and it really does not matter which way you put pressure on the spine of the blade. The idea here is to load the blade. Sometimes if I have a blade to test I'll put on some gloves to make it easier to really muscle it."

My GB failed that test. But the problem was I did not test that knife before I used it to attempt and drill the hole in the bumper. If I have, I would see it fails and would avoid using it for such a task. I got too comfortable, and confident in Spyderco's locks that I haven't conducted such testing in a while. However, I'm back to constantly using this method to test my folders. Together with spine taps (second method as mentioned by STR), it provides a rather proven method to check lock safety/reliability (I hope so, at elast)
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I was looking more at the part where he describes the lock being 'worked in' or sth after repeated openings. Just came to mind because u mentioned that when the lock liner is made to engage further, lockup is good. Maybe a slightly firmer opening will allow the liner to engage the tang more?
 
jylong_away said:
I was looking more at the part where he describes the lock being 'worked in' or sth after repeated openings. Just came to mind because u mentioned that when the lock liner is made to engage further, lockup is good. Maybe a slightly firmer opening will allow the liner to engage the tang more?
Click to expand...

STR also says that some liner locks need to be broken in before being trusted 100%. So I guess my method might actually work!
I'll give it some time, we'll see what happens.
 
Razorsharp1986 said:
STR also says that some liner locks need to be broken in before being trusted 100%. So I guess my method might actually work!
I'll give it some time, we'll see what happens.
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Have you tested to see if the pivot screw tension is effecting the liner travel? I only ask this because with my GB (1st run) the liner engages earlier if I slacken it off from my normal tension. FWIW I generally keep my pivots tension adjusted rather tight.
IMO this happens because the stop pin is not screwed to the liners as it is normally is with most Spyderco liner locks, therefore pivot tension can have a more pronounced effect on the liner engagement, as the pivot screw is the only part securing the front half of knife together.

Any way the short version...Tighten the pivot right up and see if still happens!

Bo
 
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IMHO it shouldn't have failed. I doubt you had a defective knife, Spyderco manufacturing is up there with the best production facilities, Taiwan or not. It's like that Manix 2 abuse test that caused so much debate. The ball lock is strong as hell, but not stronger than a lot of stuff out there already, they never claimed it would beat anybody so they're not in the wrong. I hope a speedy recovery is in order for you and give Spyderco a call and tell them to mail you a new knife if you haven't already. Thats the least you can get out of this.

The steel is a hard use steel, but the knife is not. It's kind of confusing and a lot of Spydercos can cut like the best of the best, and are made of top notch materials but they can't pry, punch, and take a beating. Definitely a cutting tool only, their catalog and warranty state that boldly.

Again, get better mate.
 
Razorsharp1986 said:
I tried to push the liner lock to the right, using my finger nail. It seems to move slightly, creating a more secure lockup (or so it seems). When I do the same thing using a flat head screw driver, I notice that the lock travels even farther, way farther, creating a superb lockup! It won't fail under the regular testing or when spine-tapped (whacked?!) However, when unlocked and opened, the liner won't travel farther than it usually does (the position in which it is very easy to make the lock fail)
It makes me wonder, if I keep repeating the process of pushing the liner deeper into the tang, will I make it worse or can I actually create enough even wear so that the knife will lock solid??? :confused:
Any advices are welcome. Please keep in mind, though, that I know it is better to send the knife to Spyderco, but you have to realize that I hate this kind of things, and I usually try to do anything I can (without screwing around too much) in order to fix my knife issues myself. What do you guys think?
Click to expand...

Chances are it would be best just to send the knife back.

If you're a tinkerer and like to disregard warranties in general, there are other options.
There is no way Spyderco would ever recommend you do this, I probably shouldn't even be saying it.
I would not attempt to repair a lock myself unless I am willing to accept a total loss in case I screw it up.

If you understand lock geometry, it can be fixed at home.
I've filed down the tang on a faulty lock before, and am satisfied with the result.

In your case, I would file down the lock bar a bit and keep the original blade tang geometry.
If you don't like the way the tang geometry looks, I'd use a 2" fine grit sanding drum (to make the contact surface concave).
Make small adjustments and re-assemble often. Remember that as soon as you grind anything off, the whole break in period resets, so don't take it too far.

Still.
Chances are you'll be happier just to send the knife back.
 
the knife should not have failed. what he is doing is very common task for a knife. my sak does this same job daily. i would send the pos back
 
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