The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/
I have a question:
When you used the knife how did you hold it?
The reason I ask is I have had a nasty cut due to a liner lock disengaging on me when I accidentally twisted and it failed. After some time I took my liner locks and investigated. What I found was that when I grip a liner locking knife my fat on my fingers would squeeze between the lock and front scale, with a slight twist this would cause the liner lock to disengage.
Now the way I understand the choil area on Spyderco liner locks that when held with index in the choil area even if the knife would disengage your finger will still be fine. This can be seen on many of the slipits. The knives that I have with a liner lock do not have a choil and that is why I was cut. If they did have a choil even if it would close the edge wont hit your finger first.
Ps. Hope you heel soon!
Yeah, but at the same time we have a poster who has admittedly broken other high end knives in the past and apparently has cut himself so many times that he now ignores the common sense of getting stitches.
Im not on either side of this argument although this thread has given me more than a few snow day chuckles.
I suspect that reality is buried down in here somewhere. Maybe a combination of failure / abuse / misuse. Who knows.
Then most folding knives ever produced are cheaply made and poorly designed. The body weight of the average adult male in the US (190 lbs) applied to the end of the handle is enough to overcome most locking knives sold today - no muscular effort needed, just lean on it. Half that is actually still overkill for most. Spyderco's "Very Heavy Duty" rated knives withstand 200 plus pounds per inch of blade, and the handle of a folding knife is longer than the blade (usually). Most locks on the market do not meet that criteria, nor are expected to. Not to mention slipjoints and friction folders.
I've only broken a BK-9, and the only lock or other knife that failed me was the GB.
How and why is it a "lock failure" when you aren't/weren't using the knife as it was intended to be used?
-Tye
So, um, how did you break a BK-9?
Inquiring minds want to know....
Sigh... A lock is meant to prevent the blade closing. You mostly use the knife in th e OTHER way. Means that you don't usually NEED or USE the lock of the knife anyway. But I bet that you are aware of the fact that all of these reputable, especially Spyderco, constatly try to improve on their locking mechanisms, making the stronger and more reliable every time. Especially on their folders. Though again, you don't need a strong lock for the "normal" or "intended" use of the knife.
Oh. That explains it. Excuse me, I'm going to go reroof my house and use my cellphone with the Zagg invisibleshield on the face to drive the roofing nails into the sheathing. Have a nice night.
-Tye
Medic1210, you're a funny one.
I am not changing my story. I just did not get into details in my first post.
When I said that i started twisting, you assume one thing, while you don't know what was going on.
I always try to do my tasks in a very controlled manner. sigh...
So mr. medic, probably like psycho-medic. Thanks for the free, quick treatment.
Yes, I did. I've spent a few years on this forum and I can assure you I've seen all kinds dumbass things being done with little pocket knifes.
How and why is it a "lock failure" when you aren't/weren't using the knife as it was intended to be used?
-Tye
I was starting to twist with the lock angle. Which means that if it were a frame lock, I'd apply more force on the lock bar, which would make the lock-up more secure.
Also, the choil on the GB is rather small. And though it is a plus when doing heavy cutting, it could definitely be a disadvantage when the lock fails, and your fingers are in the blade's way.![]()