jlhoffman74
Basic Member
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2014
- Messages
- 1,069
Thanks for posting the pics everyone, I am drooling over the blackwood and red sawcut handles, please post more.
-Jeff
-Jeff
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So, I think I figured it out; this pattern in the sheepsfoot blade hits a real sweet spot for me between the 15 frame's blade (a touch too short):
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and the old (enormous) Northwoods English Jack (all apologies to Derrick for swiping the picture; I don't own one, and only want to use this pic to make my point):
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The 77 seems to just sit perfectly in the Goldilocks zone of sheepsfoot blade length, at least for me. AHHHHHH. . . fantastic! Just right!
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Anywhoo,
Thanks!
Brian
P.S. Don't think it was accidental to show how great a sheepsfoot blade looks with a caplifter, as its faithful, and ever prepared, sidekick. . .![]()

Scott, I think that fatty stag is awesome!I prefer the more blunt sheepfoot of the 15. Sheepfoot blades should fill that place between coping and wharncliffe blades, and the profile of this new sheepfoot is a little too wharncliffey. But it is still a sheepfoot, and a beauty of a blade.
GEC doesn't put a lot of effort into sharpness of blades or perfect seating of the blade in the handle. I suppose they figure you will file the kick or sharpen the blade to your own taste. But I agree, they should check every knife for proud blades, and the factory edge should be super sharp. The knife needs to be ready to go out of the box!
Having said that, I have zero complaints about my new clip and sheepfoot knives with stag covers. Very well done!
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I prefer the more blunt sheepfoot of the 15. Sheepfoot blades should fill that place between coping and wharncliffe blades, and the profile of this new sheepfoot is a little too wharncliffey. But it is still a sheepfoot, and a beauty of a blade.
GEC doesn't put a lot of effort into sharpness of blades or perfect seating of the blade in the handle. I suppose they figure you will file the kick or sharpen the blade to your own taste. But I agree, they should check every knife for proud blades, and the factory edge should be super sharp. The knife needs to be ready to go out of the box!
This! A quality knife shouldn't require adjustment of the seating. There is a 3/8" gap between the tip of the blade and the bottom of the trough, meaning the blade tip could have been seated a full quarter inch lower without risking contact between the blade and back spring.
It was serviceably sharp, so I'm not going to gripe about that. Razor sharp, no, but I was not buying a razor. ;-)
It still should not have gone out GEC's door with a proud tip. I have (very carefully) taken the kick down enough to get the tip into the handle about 1/8", which makes the knife safe to carry without fear of injury to hand or pocket.That is somewhat optimistic with the strength of the spring and the habit of folks to let them fall and over-travel. But, Bill said upfront (it is on a thread somewhere here) that he was leaving the sheepfoot high but clearing the end pin so folks could lower them at their own risk. If he drops them into the well, then one guy out of a couple hundred comes to the forum and is mad because he can't pinch it and for him that leaves it only 92% perfect
But we all get to make our own decisions and without taking a roll call, I feel comfortable that there are those that are happy with the fall of the sheepfoot. But, I would say if we got you to 95% perfection - that is 10% better than I would have rated the best one I saw ==> so all is good!
It still should not have gone out GEC's door with a proud tip. I have (very carefully) taken the kick down enough to get the tip into the handle about 1/8", which makes the knife safe to carry without fear of injury to hand or pocket.
If I decide to do further work I will heed your advice and be exceedingly cautious about how far I take it down. A damaged tip is just as bad as a proud one and less easily corrected.
It is still, minor issues withstanding, a sweet knife which already entered my EDC rotation. And as always CK's service was topnotch.