Getting Started On Knife Sharpening Using the Harbor Freight 1x30" Belt Sander

I'd think a couple of belts might be helpful, after the 1200 you should be able to go with a black and then white compound (on their own leather belts) for a bright finish. A Scotchbrite belt after the 1200 and before the leather/compound might be real helpful too. I don't do a ton of bright large-surface polishing, but on most steels that should work pretty well.

I'm certain there are better polishing belts out there, hopefully someone else will chime in.
 
Thanks for the helpful posts HH!!! :thumbup:

Cackmandu, sounds like you're going for a blended zero-edge on your Mora. That will be one heck of a slicer!!! :cool:

For polishing, as per my original post, I would recommend a 3,000 grit Norax belt as the final belt. Maybe even a super-fine Scotch-Brite belt after that. Just note the mods/things that are required to run a SB belt, and if you use one, be really careful not to push very hard at all on it, or you'll get some wrap-around at the edge of the knife which will wreck the edge.
 
And using wd-40 on the Scotch-Brite belt works well.

Also, make sure that you store your Scotch-Brite belt away from your other belts. One stray piece of ceramic or SiC from another belt can ruin a Scotch-Brite.
 
SpyderPhreak said:
Thanks for the helpful posts HH!!! :thumbup:

Cackmandu, sounds like you're going for a blended zero-edge on your Mora. That will be one heck of a slicer!!! :cool:

For polishing, as per my original post, I would recommend a 3,000 grit Norax belt as the final belt. Maybe even a super-fine Scotch-Brite belt after that. Just note the mods/things that are required to run a SB belt, and if you use one, be really careful not to push very hard at all on it, or you'll get some wrap-around at the edge of the knife which will wreck the edge.
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Good stuff guys! Yeah I saw one in that latest mora thread " are Mora's any good" and just got me thinking, that would be a fairly easy project that would give a little variety to the Mora look, interested in getting it started! Where are those confounded belts!
 
NJBillK said:
And using wd-40 on the Scotch-Brite belt works well.

Also, make sure that you store your Scotch-Brite belt away from your other belts. One stray piece of ceramic or SiC from another belt can ruin a Scotch-Brite.
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Interesting. Never heard to use WD-40 on the SB belts before. What does this do?

Also, keep the different SB belts stored away from each other as well. They shed grit all too easily.
 
I have taken it mostly at face value from Bill DeShivs, Josh Mason, and A. Brett Schaller.

I have been using it on my scotch brite belts and I like the finish I am left with. It seems to hold on to less swarf than when I used water, It seems to self clean a bit more.

It might be a mental thing, I am not definite. Primarily due to that, I would like for others to weigh in on the subject, if possible.

Edit for verification and for link:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...be-cleaned/page2?highlight=Wd-40+scotch+brite
 
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Two Surgi-sharp belt questions, rough side out, right?
Also, do I need to prep the belt with anything before putting the green compound on?
 
Cackmandu said:
Two Surgi-sharp belt questions, rough side out, right?
Also, do I need to prep the belt with anything before putting the green compound on?
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Rough side out is what I've seen recommended the most, but I personally prefer the smooth side out. Just make sure the belt is clean before using it, no other real prep needed. Don't use too much of the compound. The belt does not have to be completely coated.

It'll be a bit tight when you first use it, and you might need to give the machine a little "push" with your hand to get it going.
 
What is the top rpm and lowest useable rpm you get out of that set up heavy handed?

I tried my 1x30 to sharpen and gave it up because the free hand was faster and better for me. I know there are some guys out there that can really get good edges off the sander... Wish I had the patience! Lol
 
Etap73 said:
What is the top rpm and lowest useable rpm you get out of that set up heavy handed?

I tried my 1x30 to sharpen and gave it up because the free hand was faster and better for me. I know there are some guys out there that can really get good edges off the sander... Wish I had the patience! Lol
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I can't fathom someone being able to get a better edge faster free-hand than with the 1x30. That's why almost ALL production knife companies (and many custom makers too) sharpen this way.

What problems were you having, if you don't mind my asking? What belts were you using? You can get an edge that will easily push-cut newsprint and tree-top hairs from the 1x30, without too much trouble, once you get the hang of it.
 
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SpyderPhreak said:
I can't fathom someone being able to get a better edge faster free-hand than with the 1x30. That's why almost ALL production knife companies (and many custom makers too) sharpen this way.

What problems were you having, if you don't mind my asking? What belts were you using? You can get an edge that will easily put-cut newsprint and tree-top hairs from the 1x30, without too much trouble, once you get the hang of it.
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Trust me, the problem was purely the fact that I can get very good edges off an India stone, or go to my shaptons, because I like them.

I tried my grinder. And realized that it was purely operator error... Faster being faster on a stone than I can do on a grinder. Hence the "patience" that I lack! 😢

Though I'm not an expert, I feel no Matter how fast or good I get with a grinder it will never be as good as hand honing. I will let you know that I just don't believe that anyone can get a better edge on a grinder than a hand hone... Read I'm sure lots of folks can do better on a grinder than me but I doubt the best grinder sharpener could best the best hand sharpener even though he might be faster! 😉
 
Etap73 said:
What is the top rpm and lowest useable rpm you get out of that set up heavy handed?

I tried my 1x30 to sharpen and gave it up because the free hand was faster and better for me. I know there are some guys out there that can really get good edges off the sander... Wish I had the patience! Lol
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The lowest useful RPM is probably about 200-300. The motor tops out around 1400 RPM.

I get what you're saying about how long it takes. For me I get the best use by stopping at about 120 grit and a set bevel. With my waterstones and on common steels I can sharpen up most knives in 10 minutes or less, with the bevel reset being half of that. So the grinder takes a lot of elbow grease out of the equation and a rapid two stone progression gets it down to 5 minutes per.

For me the biggest boost in speed from freehand is I know my stones and do a lot less QC for hand work. On the grinder the actual work goes faster, but I spend a lot more time on QC.

I also agree the edges are nicer when done by hand but most folk would never notice the difference without having it pointed out. I can pound through a handful of knives very rapidly on the belt grinder, but some may have small burrs, incomplete grinds, small shifts in grind angle - pretty much what one gets from most factory edges but a lot sharper. And then I have far far more time and experience doing hand work compared to using my grinder, so over time I expect to bring the two results much closer.

I'malso taking a critical look at the grinder set-up and trying to ID where the tool itself might be hampering my results, like knocking some of the crown off the idler and drive pulleys on the HF, and putting on a much nicer platen that has zero flex and can be tuned more accurately.
 
Etap73 said:
Trust me, the problem was purely the fact that I can get very good edges off an India stone, or go to my shaptons, because I like them.

I tried my grinder. And realized that it was purely operator error... Faster being faster on a stone than I can do on a grinder. Hence the "patience" that I lack! 😢

Though I'm not an expert, I feel no Matter how fast or good I get with a grinder it will never be as good as hand honing. I will let you know that I just don't believe that anyone can get a better edge on a grinder than a hand hone... Read I'm sure lots of folks can do better on a grinder than me but I doubt the best grinder sharpener could best the best hand sharpener even though he might be faster! 😉
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Ah, gotcha, I see.

I won't argue which method will produce a better edge, because I honestly don't know. :p If we're talking about a straight razor, I might give the edge to the stones due to it's thinness and acuteness of the edge (both operators having mastered their respective methods).

However, with some of the newer diamond film belts, or if using something like a really low micron diamond paste methodically on a leather stropping belt, I could easily see the edge going to the belt grinder over the stones on anything thicker / more obtuse than a straight razor, irrespective of the time taken to get to the final edge finish.

It would be interesting to see. Almost like a contest of old world craftsmanship versus newer technology. It could very well be that they're equal in mastered hands. IDK. :shrug: :thumbup:
 
SpyderPhreak said:
Ah, gotcha, I see.

I won't argue which method will produce a better edge, because I honestly don't know. [emoji14] If we're talking about a straight razor, I might give the edge to the stones due to it's thinness and acuteness of the edge (both operators having mastered their respective methods).

However, with some of the newer diamond film belts, or if using something like a really low micron diamond paste methodically on a leather stropping belt, I could easily see the edge going to the belt grinder over the stones on anything thicker / more obtuse than a straight razor, irrespective of the time taken to get to the final edge finish.

It would be interesting to see. Almost like a contest of old world craftsmanship versus newer technology. It could very well be that they're equal in mastered hands. IDK. :shrug: :thumbup:
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I assume that it would take a trained eye to really be able to tell the better of the two, and the results would be highly subjective. Though I personally am more worried about losing temper at the edge with my stock 1x30. A low rpm set up would change that.

I am highly interested in developing the ability to get great edges from a grinder but once again there are only so many hours in a day, and as I said so far my patience hasn't lasted!
 
Etap73 said:
I assume that it would take a trained eye to really be able to tell the better of the two, and the results would be highly subjective. Though I personally am more worried about losing temper at the edge with my stock 1x30. A low rpm set up would change that.

I am highly interested in developing the ability to get great edges from a grinder but once again there are only so many hours in a day, and as I said so far my patience hasn't lasted!
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Indeed, to really be able to tell any difference, you would likely need a microscope. I agree, even then, the cutting ability would still be highly subjective. Certainly, stones have the benefit of far less risk of heating the edge over the stock HF 1x30. Not so versus other belt grinders, especially cooled ones.

As with anything, practice, practice, practice.
 
Well my 1x30 died so i went to HF and bought another that has a 5" disc grinder as well. Soo i asked if there was a way to slow the speed down and dude says yep use this Router speed controller. Ive heard that these type of speed controls will burn out the motor so i spent $13.00 for a extended warranty in case it does. I,ll let ya"ll know how it turns out.
 
This looks like a temporary solution for me as well...

Thanks Fog.
 
NJ, yvw. Well I fired up the HF belt grinder plugged into the router speed control. There is a loss of torque when dialing the speed down to far, i could easily make the HF stop turning when applying to much pressure. But using my ears and eyes as a rpm gauge i believe i was able to bring the speed down approxamtly 20 to 25 percent and still grind with light pressure. The blade i was grinding on definitly did NOT get as hot as when grinding at the normal speed of the HF. I tested grinding it at différent speeds to see if there was a heat difference.. So far so good.
 
Cool. I have a spare 1.5hp and 2hp motors and will eventually be building a 2x72. Though I lack the funds for the rollers...

Due to that, this may hold me over until I can get something a bit more functional.
The pressure issue will be able to be worked around.

Have you noticed one type of abrasive or a certain grit range that seems to exacerbate the noticeable drop in experienced torque?
 
The belt i used this evening was an 80grit that came with the grinder. I ran the grinder for about 30 minutes and noticed no smoke or burning smell from the grinder motor. This is a very prelimanry proof of concept test. Worst case the motor does fail and i,ll get another under the 15 month warranty i purchased for $12.00 bux.
 
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